Paul Grainger

Steve, I know you said the wiring was dead going to the pump but it could be the live or the earth. Put your meter across the pump wires (with it connected) and test the voltage when it should be running i.e. when you first switch on for 1 second or when cranking. You should have battery voltage. If not then try it again with the probe that was on the earth wire now going to a known good earth (even if it means running a wire back to the battery). If you now have battery voltage then it is the earth at fault. If you still don't then it is the feed. At least then you will know what side of the circuit to investigate. Cheers Paul

Just a thought...... I know of one that was put in the wrong way round. The pedal was really stiff at the bottom of its travel. Needless to say it dragged like hell!!

I wonder what make clutch was fitted? I would stick two a good make I.e LUK. Fierce engagements should be dampened out by the cusion plate and hub springs within the centre disc while not going into reverse would suggest a bit of drag. Maybe a bit more grease needed on the input shaft or the idle speed could be a touch too high.

Hi Nick. Historicly Ford sensors were always colour coded. I.e. the colour of the insulator around the terminal where the wire goes on. For the gauge to sit at the same place as before the sendor should be replaced with one of the same colour. After market sensors may not be the same. I would speak the your supplier or get a genuine one. Cheers Paul

Yup. Sounds like a leaking heater matrix. Time for a new one I am afraid. If you unbolt the heater box you can drop it down a bit and twist it a bit and the matrix will come out if you hold the clutch pedal down.

Is the Tennis an MFI or EFI? Can't quite remember! The MFI cars had a purple relay which should be clipped to the steering column frame. The EFI cars had the relay in the fuse box. I think from memory they may have been yellow and square. Check the voltage across the pump when connected. It should be battery voltage for 1 second when switching the ignition on and then again when cranking. Cheers

Have you checked all the vacuum hoses? There is a t piece at the back of the engine on the right as you look at it which tend to split. Also the one on the front right where it connects to the crank case breather. If ok then try replacing the crank case breather valve. These can be troublesome as well. Cheers

Exhaust gas data would be the way. Adjust it and see if the readings change. You could take it apart and wd40 everything. Cheers

Have you any exhaust gas data? The metering valves are known for sticking. Cheers

Doesnt need to be plugged in. Should just adjust. The potentiometers are prone to failure. If you are sure its ok then check for air leaks.. Cheers

Ok. So yours is one of the early ones which has been modified. Check the base idle as described previously. If on the inner wing by the potentiometer there are two black wires with spade connectors then join them together. This will make the cooling fan run constantly while you adjust base idle Cheers

From memory the windows don't use the relays. Should be white and yellow wires from the switch to each motor. One makes the window go up and the other makes it go down. The earth return is through the motor body to the chassis earth. I would start by checking the voltage between the relevent motor feed and the door frame. (Leave the motor connected to show up any high resistances) Cheers

It will be there somewhere...... The very early EFIs had a Hitachi valve mounted on the air box. These were the worst and a modification came out to mount it on the baulkhead with a piece of hose running to it. Then they were modified in production to include the valve on the air intake throttle body which was a lot better. The potentiometer you have replaced is the one on the inner wing I pressume? This is to adjust the fuel mixture which can only be done with an exhaust gas analyser. There is an air bypass screw on the throttle body. Try adjusting this to get the idle speed to sit at 750rpm with the idle speed control valve disconnected (Unscrew to speed up). Then reconnect the valve and adjust the potentiometer to to set the fuel mixture. Most garages should have an exhaust gas analyser and only takes 15 mins so shouldn't cost much. Cheers

Check the base idle setting and fuel mixture. These were renowned for drivability issues. Is the idle speed control valve on the bulkhead or on the inlet manifold?

Hi Chris. Does it have a catalytic converter? Are there any fault codes? Cheers

Sounds to me like the clutch centre disc has been put in the wrong way round. If the clutch now has a stiff spot right at the bottom then do not be tempted to press the pedal too hard or the clutch quadrant on the pedal will break causing you more problems. It is only plastic. Hope all goes well

Hi Chris. When you say it turns over well does it sound like there is compression on all cylinders? If not the hydraulic followers could have become depressed over a period of time not being run. If that sounds ok then you are looking at fuel pressure I would think. Should be 3 bar if you can get you hands on a gauge? Filter blocked maybe? Cheers

Enginering job i would think if replacements aren't available. Could drill then out and sleeve them or fill the holes with a blob of weld and ream them out to the correct size again. Be prepared to cut them off and reweld them back on. Cheers

Blimey, going back in time!! There were two radios that looked the same but one had the round din output for the amp. Think it had four little buttons instead of three. can't remember any model numbers though. The plugs wil be as rare as rocking horse dung but can be wired up using female spade connectors. From memory the outside large terminal is the earth and the large one next to it is the main feed from the ign switch. The next two are the permenent live and the electric aerial. Not sure which one is which. I would power it up and test to see which one goes live when you switch on as this will be th he aerial output. The screen will be blank until you get the permenent live on. Have fun.

Hi Ghiaman, The momentary whir you can hear is the fuel pump running to prime the system with 3 bar of fuel pressure. It will struggle to start without this. The click it the relay that controls the pump. If this is not clicking then I would replace the fuel pump relay. If the click is good then it is most likely to be the pump at fault. I can't remember off hand which relay it is but it is easy to find. Take the cover off the fuse box and undo the screws that you can see that hold in the plastic trim under the steering column. Once this trim panel is out the way you can flip the metal clip that holds the front of the fuse box up. With the fuse box hanging down switch the ignition on and of to find which one is doing the clicking. (There will be another one which clicks when you switch on and when you switch off. The one you want will click when you switch on and then click again after a few seconds). Pull it out and try it again to make sure the click has gone and there is no whir to make sure you have the correct one. Think it might be a yellow four pin one. Replace it and see how you get on. One word of warning. The fuseboxes have a habit of failing so check the contacts in there too. If the relay has burned out then you can usually sniff the contacts and smell burning plastic. Good luck.

I am afraid not. Perhaps just estimate how much you think has leaked out from what you can see on the floor. Just be a bit mindfull that it doesn't hold that much so if its lost a litre than that is a third of the oil gone! Cheers

The wire is in the multiplug which goes to the instrument cluster. The gauge gets power then earths out by a 'negative coefficient thermister' in the thermostat housing; also known as a sender unit. This means that as the temperature increases it lets more power through and the gauge goes up. If the gauge is right down low then it could be the small wire off the sender on the thermostat housing. A good test is to switch the ignition on and earth out the wire that normally goes to the sender to the engine. The gauge should go to the top of the red. If it does then the sender unit is at fault. If it doesn't it could be the gauge or its wiring. If replacing the sender then get one with the same colour insulator ring or the gauge normal position will be in a different place. Cheers

Is it just when its really hot? Could be heat from the distributor effecting the ignition amplifier. Try taking it of and putting heat proof grease on the mating surface. Cheers

Ah ok. Sorry thought you meant the garage couldn't check it!! Blocked breathers was a common problem with these and before they had speed sensors they used to 'pump' the transmission oil up the speedo cable and then it would drip on your feet!! The early type of breather that used to block was a small black rubber pipe in the end of the gearbox which pokes into the chassis leg. Sometimes they got doubled over when they were put in stopping them from working. Perhaps it's worth getting them to check that. Could stop it leaking all togrther. Cheers

Hi Linda, why can't they check the oil level? Just unscrew the bung! The sensor on the speedo drive is the speed sensor. Is it leaking from here? If so the most likely cause is a blocked breather. The gearbox takes about 2.5 - 3.0 ltrs...... ish. You fill it up untill it drips out the level bung. Sounds like you need a getter garage.