Paul Grainger

You have the right plug alright, just bridging it out with a split pin or peice of wire (with the ignition swithed on) will switch the motor on. If this is the case then the switch is at fault. This just unscrews and the new one screws in, but recheck the coolant level after as you will loose some. If bridging the wirs out dosen't make the fan run then keep it bridged whilst checking the power feed and earth to the motor. If this is ok then the motor is at fault, If there is no power then it is a wiring fault. I am assuming you have checked the fuse? There is one in the fuse box, think it is a grren 30A one from memory. Good luck

If the fluid is down then check you brake pads. If they are badly worn then the fluid level will lower than usual. Putting new pads in will bring the level back up, and if you have topped it up before hand could cause it to spill over. Brake fluid acts like paint stripper and will need to be cleaned of straight away. A watering can full of water is good for this but use plenty of it to get it all off. Good luck

Hi, Sounds like you have a few problems here. Lets start at the main one of battery running flat. If the red light does not go out when the engine is running then it is not charging. Is the little blue wire conected to the alternator? this should come from the negative side of the warning lamp bulb and is required to make the alternator work. The rev counter could be a voltage problem that is fixed when you get the carging sorted, however it is probably a fauly rev counter...the cheapest and easiest fix for this it to source another instument cluster from a breakers yard. An finaly the rear wiring. The wire that you put to the frame to switch the light on should split in to two and each one should then go to the pin switched at the A post. The rear window is just one blue/black wire from the relay to one side of the window and the other contact should have a wire going to thr frame. Make sure these wires can cary over 35 amps. All you problems are now gone! Good luck

If you can't find anything to do this you can try flexible fuse links instead, they are normally 45amp and can be bought for just pennies from an auto electrical specialist. Good luck

The spring should always be used when setting the tension. The tensioning should be done by allowing the spring to hold pressure on the tensioner whilst you turn the crank slightly clockwise to take up any slack around the belt. then recheck the timing after rotating it twice. When the Zetec first came out this spring did not exist. it was a modification to make sure the belts were being tensioned properly because if not the customer would complain of a noise described by Ford as a 'goose honk'. Beware the goose!!!

You need to check the oil pressure cold and hot... I bet there will be a difference. The rattle will be the valve lifters for sure, but the rely on oil pressure. If the crank bearings are worn the you will get the reduction in pressure. Also quite common in these engines is the camshaft bearings causing exactly the same problem. If the oil pressure is down then remove the rocker cover and start the engine,(get a friend to start it so they can switch it off quick!) if the cam bearings are shot then you will see a gush of oil at the back of the head on the cam pully end (you will also need to protect the timing belt from oil contamination). Good luck

What wire is it? You should have the big red wire that goes straight to the battery +, and on the same teminal should be another red one that goes to the alternater. The Large black one from the battery - bolts to the gearbox, possibly by a starter bolt, and the only other one you should have, is a smaler black wire which should have a red strip along it, this is from your ignition switch that tells the starter when to crank. What hapened whe you broke down? Did the engine turn over? if not then check you have a feed at this small wire when cranking (when it next brakes down) If there is a feed, your starter motor is at fault, if there is no feed then it will be a wiring fault, this wire has a connector by the brake master cylinder towards the battery, from then it goes to the ignition switch via the fuse box where there is a relay which is controled by the factory fit alarm (if it has one). There is an imobiliser relay inside the control unit if if has got one that used to stick. You may need a sparky to check it out. Good luck

Before you spend a small fortune, try lubricating the runners with silicone spray, if nessaccery take the door card off to get right down there.

YOur side light come on with the first click of the switch, and the headlamps on the next. If it dosen't do this already there is a fault.

On this model you should have four wires on each front door motor, these are known as master servo's as they control each other and have no additional control unit. The same system was fitted to all fords at the time and the rear doors and tail gates where applicable had three wires and would only be controled by the masters. The cabby obviously only has the two motors as there are only two doors and the boot isnt wired for security purposes. The trigger is worked of a negative pulse to the yellow wire and the white wire on either motor, one is unlock and one is lock, however I cant quite remember which way round it is!! If you do get them the wrong way round then it will just unlock when you want it to lock, and lock when you want it to unlock, no big deal, just swap your wires around the other way. Just a tip, I would patch your wires into the loom where they come into the car behind the A pillar. This way it saves you running wires into the door and your connections will not be so exposed to moisture. Good luck. Paul

You will need to check physicaly what is stopping it from coming right down, sometimes wires hanging down can get caught, also the slider that the bolt fell out of, could that of got screwed back on upside down? as thas could also do it. I would put it down as far as you can then feel around with your hand, but be very careful as window motors are very powerful and the regulator could act like a pair of scissors, keep your fingers out of the way! Good luck

Try putting it in 5th gear and and the hand brake on, then from the front of the car put your arm under with a long ring spanner, next pull for England, never failed me yet. Good luck

Sounds like you have blown a fuse. The sidelights have a separate fuse for each side, the no plate light and dash lights are also on one of them, i think it might be on the right circuit. From memory is could be fuse 6 or 7 but Ford in there infinate wisdom changed the fuse box configuration a couple of times so you will need to check with the fuse cover diagram. Good luck

Is your charge light working ok? If not the bulb in the dash could be blown. if it ok then it could be a current issue. It will be worth checking the connection at the starter cable positive terminal because this is where the power from the alternator goes to before going on up to the battery. On the starter teminal you have the big red wire going to the battery, there are also some smaller ones that connect to the cable going to the alternator, these are the ones that corrode and restrict the current flow. strip back the insulation from this end and you will see they connect to thicker cables that go along the front cross member and on to the alternator. Make sure all these connections are secure, clean and that the cables are not corroded. Good luck

Great stuff, The cause is more likly to be a build of of carbon, thats all. Sometimes you can get away with just cleaning them. Adjusting the throttle body can be a problem as the sensoe will now provide a higher voltage at idle, this means the ECU will think the thottle is always slightly open. To rectify this you could just disconnect the battery for a few minutes, this will clear the KAM codes, it will then learn the new idle values as you use it. Good luck

You may find a sticker under the bonnet advising the correct plugs, but this will be the ford number. A factors could use this number to cross reference, but i would stick to the genuine ones if i were you. If is not uncommon for factors to supply "equivelent" makes with different part numbers, but i am concerned about the difference in the numerical part of the number as this is the operating heat range of the plug and is crucial. Get is wrong they couls even cause engine damage. Good luck

You have not said which model you have so i can't tell you where items are located. If you can find the temp sensor then remove the wire and connect it to earth. switch on the ignition so the two red lights are on. The gauge should go all the way to the top. If it does then the sender is at fault, these are cheap and easy to replace by unscrewing from the head and screwing the new one back in, they are colour coded by the plastic insulator so replace it with one of the same type ore your gauge will be incorrect. If however the gauge does not go to the top, then is is probably a gauge fault, in this case it may be cheaper to get hold of a second hand instrument cluster. Good luck.

Just to clear up any confussion This only applies to vehicles of a certain year that had a cat fitted as standard equipment. So if you were to fitt a '97 16v engine you will still not need one. The MOT contains different rules for different year cars, applicable to yours is a visual inspecton for smoke and a ges test to make sure the exhaust gas contains not more than 4.5% carbon monoxide.

If the sparks are ok then it has to be a fuel fault. The power supply to the injectors all come from the fuse box via engine loom connectors located behind the engine on the right as you look at it. The ECU triggers the injectors by switching the earth circuits only, so low voltage could be caused by corrosion in the multiplugs or water leaking onto the fusebox. More likely is fuel starvation, did you say it has a new fuel filter? make sure it is fitted the correct way round (there should be an arrow on it showing the direction of flow). you said fuel pressure is ok? It should be 2.5 bar with the vacuum hose on the regulator, and 3 bar with it removed. I would check the flow rate too. To do this remove the return pipe from the regulator and fitt a pipe going to a bottle. Start the engine and see how much fuel comes out the return, there should be enough to fill a milk bottle in about 10 seconds. I would get someone to help you to switch the ening on and off as you do not want to spill fuel. Observe normal fuel handling precutions. If the fuel supply is poor then you could have a damaged fuel line restricting flow. The EFI's were fitted with in tank fuel pumps which is all part of the fuel gauge sender assembely and can be removed to inspect the bag gauze strainer on the end of the pick up. The fuel pump could also be at fault if the supply is not up to scratch. Good luck.

Another thing well worth checking is corrossion ?!!? You have said the fuel pump runs for about a second when you switch on? Does it run again when you crank it? If it does not then you may have lost the 'PIP' signal from the EDIS module to the EECIV control unit (ECU). (This is required as the Fuel pump relay is triggered by the EECIV. The Resistance of the crank sensor should always be the same as it is mearly an inductive pick up coil. With the multimeter across its pins and set to voltage you should indeed get 2-2.5 volts. If this is on the low side the a 'PIP' signal will not be generated. To rectify this, remove the sensor and clean both the mating sufaces. Even the slightest corrosion can lift the sensor away from the flywheel and give low voltage. I have before now had to file the sensor a bit to achieve a good signal. dont file to much as it could touch the flywheel! Good luck.

Your problems all appear to be fuel related and may just need setting up. The missing valve behind the rocker cover is in fact only a warm up regulator so i wouldn't worry to much about that. I am assuming the catalyst fitted is only 'two way' without loop control? you can check this by making sure there is no oxygen sensor fitted in the exhaust down pipe? The air flow meters sometimes stick, if you take the intake hose off the fuel distributor, (that all the red injector pipes go to), the meter is the round disc inside, this gets sucked up when you accelerate moving a fuel control pin. (just make sure its not sticking by pulling it upwards, if it is than a replacement will be required). Have you tampered with the throttle body? this should be set with the plate as closed as possible without sticking when opening it by hand, then the lock nut should be tightend on the adjusting screw. (most people use this to adjust the idle speed which is incorrect, the wire going to it is for the overun fuel shut off relay). The idle should then be adjusted to 800 rpm (with the engine warm) using the air bleed screw on the bottom of the throttle housing. All this must be done as a pre-requirement for a trip to a garage equiped with an exhaust gas anyliser to set up the fuel mixture. This is adjusted by means if an extra deep 3mm allen key. The screw is located in the tiny little tube immediately behind the fuel distributor and should be adjusted to 1.5% CO content. The mechanic will probably say it can't be adjusted due to having a catylist, but there should be a sample plug to tap into on the downpipe before the cat. If they do not have the right connector or the plug isn't there, then ask for it to be adjusted to give the highest CO2 output. (Do not be tempted to try this yourself as the adjustment is ultra sensitive and you could easily stop it starting all together). this will be when combustion is the most efficient. After this i am sure it will run fine. Have fun.

Never seen a broken rocker before. Probably due to someone tinkering with it! Has she got a high lift cam fitted? I would get some more rockers and try your compression test again. Whilst apart, make sure all the hydraulic lifters are free and that the little rectangular spacer plates are fitted between the head and the block that holds the lifter down. Make sure also the blocks themselves are in the rocker arm the right way round, (they should be fitted acros the width of the arm and may not look correct until you get them tightend down). They should be tightend to 18lb ft. CVH engines do not normally suffer much in the way of piston damage if the cambelt fails, and normally bend valves only. (This is due to the large degree of valve inclination). If it has sat for five years then dont be put off by top end rattle when it does start. It may well rattle until it warms up. Good luck