Paul Grainger

Yes thats the way to test it. If the gauge goes up to the top then the fault is with the sender unit. If it doesn't then it is the gauge or wiring. Get a wiring diagram and earth the right wire though!

Think I have woken up in a parallel universe today.........

Sadly Ian is absolutly right. Most don't have a clue or couldn't be bothered!!! It's not the torque setting that adjusts it. It is the position of the washers on the tie bar i.e. before or after the suspension unit as this moves its lower position. It's a bit primitive but makes a big difference especially to tyre wear. Good luck.

Could just be a vacuum pipe off. Check the one around the front near the thermostat housing and the T piece as it goes over the gearbox and around the back. Cam timing is critical on these engines. Did you use the cam locking plate to check the timing? Also there are two timing marks on the crank pulley. You need to use the second one which is an about 20 degrees after the first. Good luck

You will need to get underneath...... Perhaps get someone to help by lifting the car by the wings just enough to get the Jack under. Not sure what Jack and stands you have but it would need to be quite high as the starter is at the back. Some garages hire out ramps and equipmant which could be worth an ask or just pay them to change it. Labour time is only 0.6 of an hour. Good luck

Assuming you still don't have any sparks? The crank sensor must have a resistance to create a voltage.......... the voltage Is only small and is an AC signal. When you switch the ignition on the fuel pump should run for a second then switch off. Then it should start again when cranking. Does yours do this? If it does then the crank sensor is fine. If it doesn't start pumping again when cranking then it is not sensing the crank signal. If this is the case then pull the sensor out and clean up the mount with emery paper or similar. The sensor has an inductive pick up and if some corrosion is holding away from the flywheel then the voltage produced could be too low. By cleaning off any corrosion you will get the sensor closer to the fly wheel and increase the voltage.

Excellent idea Ian. A technician friend of mine had one and called it a special tool. I found an Allen key does just as well.

I would start by looking at the ignition switch itself and the ignition relay on top of the fuse box. Test them and go from there.......

I have fitted a Hirschmann 2050. Its a bit more noisey than the OE spec but does the job.

Set your meter to 0-20 volts DC you will need the sensor connected and the ignition switched on. There are three wires at the sensor. One is an earth, one is a 5v feed and the last one is the reference back to the ECU. Probe the reference wire using a paperclip so you don't damage the wire. You should have roughly 0.5v at idle. Slowly depress the throttle and the voltage should slowly rise until you get to full throttle which should be roughly 4.5v You are looking for the voltage dropping out enroute. After this disconnect the battery for a few minutes to clear the KAM codes just in case you have caused any voltage drops as the ECU will create new idle values. Good luck.

I needed a pair for my mk6. The only ones I could get were tin top ones which did not fit and were poor quality. Ended up fabricating new ones from sheet steel. She is double the weight she used to be but should outlast me!!

Hi rudedog, 3M products are always good in my opinion however if it is secure then I would be happy. Sounds to me like the door moulding has been refitted slightly too far forward or the wing moulding too far backwards. Only takes being out by a mm sometimes!!

Hi Dave. The throttle sensor is on the end of the throttle butterfly on the opposite end to the linkage where the cable goes on. It is supplied with 5v from the ecu and a ground. The third wire is the reference voltage back to the ecu. Should be about 0.5v at idle going up to 4.5v at full throttle. The speed sensor is located on the gearbox where the cable screws on. This is a hall type sensor and produces a square wave form when moving. The faster you go the higher the frequency. The idle should hang up until you actually stop but the sensors fail internally and you get interference going up the signal wire to the ecu. This will keep the idle speed high as the ecu thinks the car is still moving when it isn't. The cable unscrews from the sensor and the sensor unscrews from the gearbox. If you follow the wiring up from the sensor you will find the three pin multiplug on the baulkhead near the brake servo. Disconnect it. If your tick over speed drops then the sensor is faulty. Some people leave them disconnected but then you can get problems with cutting out. Good luck.

Hi Dave, they can be cleaned with brake cleaner. Avoid anything oil based as all sorts of dirt will stick to it. To test is on the car just disconnect the throttle sensor, the idle should drop to 750 rpm. Don't worry if it cuts out, just adjust the air bleed screw on the throttle body until it will idle. If the idle speed does change or the engine cuts out then at least you know the valve is working. If it is working, and you have adjusted the air bleed screw, and you still have problems then disconnect the speed sensor. These can cause high idle speed when faulty too. Good luck.

Have a look at the big reg cable on the starter motor. Being right at the front means it is prone to corrosion. Also the other cable that attaches to it is the charge wires from the alternator. Check these for condition. If these are corroded then you will have all sorts of problems. The charge voltage can look ok with a multimeter but switch the lights on etc and the current can't be delivered and the battery goes flat. This is quite common so worth a look.

Should be the same fuel sender.

Hi John. Well done, excellent choice in car. The fuel gauge fault could be caused by the sender unit in the tank. It's worth pulling the back seat base up an take the grommet out to get access to the plug. It's a bit of a fiddle but you can just about get the plug off with the aid of some long screwdrivers. Mine had corrosion in the sender unit plug due to water sat in it. Didn't have a clue until I hit a bump and the wire to the fuel pump broke causing a breakdown.

Only seen it on a diesel. Caused by piston/valve contact due to timing belt failure. Never on a CVH.

Just a thought on the clutch..... if they have got the centre plate in the wrong way then it will still work but make the pedal really stiff at the bottom and cause the clutch to drag. This makes it difficult to get into gear. The idle problem approaching junctions sounds to me like a typical speed sensor fault. This is the one screwed onto the gearbox that the cable attaches too. Follow the wires up to the baulkhead and make sure the three pin plug is connected. The sensors fail causing a high idle speed and a lot of people seem to disconnect them instead of fitting a new one. Maybe they just forgot it or broke it when doing the clutch? Agree with the brakes. Mine are all new but still not great. Never were when they were new!

Ha aha. Yeah. Wire wheel is good fr valve deposits. Then listen to them sing when grinding them in!

Just a thought. If the valve seals were that bad then the oil dripping down the valve and burning could have made a really hard bleach deposit around the bore making it look like a lip. Sure its not just that? Try scraping it off with a solid knife. Steel wont hurt the bore. And yes the new type seals have the bases built in. This is to stop them riding up the valve. Throw the old ones in you Box of bits and bobs! Regards

Yup. Seals are on all of the valves. Smoke like crazy when they are knackered. You would be surprised how big a 1mm oversize piston really is in a bore. Normally they are in tenths of a mm. Are there no sign of blow by gasses on the piston on no 4? If not the play may not be as bad as you think. Remember the piston will be a tighter fit when the engine warms up. I would decarbonise and measure for ovality. It is true that the numbers could be grading marks but I don't remember seeing any on a CVH before. I do know that the con rods and caps are marked 1234. Also the rods should have f on them to face the front of the engine ie cam belt end. Nothing more satisfying than a good engine build? Have fun!

Butyl strip I should think.

I would start measuring. Sounds like it might have been apart before.

Hi, Google bosch k jetronic fuel distributor. Plenty of diagrams to look at. It is the control plunger that sticks.