Paul Grainger

Might be worth double checking the valve timing is right. Cheers

Hi, I would check for fault codes and check for air leaks. Make sure the fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose is connected. Cheers

Nothing known that I know of. Mine failed a couple of years ago as the multiplug corroded and the terminal broke off the pump. I replaced it with a Bocsh pump which is the OE brand and has been fine since. I wonder if yours has done the same and the multi plug is still corroded causing a bad connection ? You can just about get to the plug by lifting the rear seat. Might be worth tesing the voltage to the pump wires to rule out the wiring before dropping the tank again. Cheers

Glad to hear all is well and thanks for the update. Perhaps the breather system changes with the model year. Happy cabriotleting

Hi Sharon, the T piece connects breather pipes at the back of the head on the passenger side. The breather valve is an oil separator and there is no real way of testing it unfortunately. I would just replace it. Cheers Paul

Hi Sharon. So the t piece in a bit lower down then on your photos. As you look at the engine feel with your right hand around the the top of the gearbox to the back of the head. Then it's just below. The carb cleaner must be getting in somewhere if it causes the engine speed to increase so you have definitely got an air leak. Fix this first as you may find you problem will be fixed. Why do you want to replace the tps??? Regards Paul

Hi Sharon, The pipes go around the back of the engine and there is a t piece which also splits and gives trouble.. this is worth a check. The speed sensor is fitted on the gearbox where the cable attaches and the harness goes up on to the baulkhead to a triangular 3 pin multiplug. The purpose of it is to provide a digital square wave to the ecu to inform road speed. The idea being to avoid cutting out due to throttle snap shut. In other words the revs should hang up until the car stops. The problem with these hall effect sensors is they develop an internal fault which gives supply voltage interference to the ecu which in turn thinks the car is moving when it is not, thus giving the high idle speed. The only real way to diagnose it properly is to check for interference with an oscilloscope. You could disconnect the speed sensor for a bit and see if it cures it however the engine may cut out when slowing down. Cheers Paul

Hi Sharon, Yes the valve is on the front of he crankcase and the pipe attaches to it. They just pull out with a pair of pliers. They are sometimes called clacker valves as they make a clacking noise when you shake them! I would just replace it. Incidentally Cortinas had them too! If you still have a problem then I would be looking at he speed sensor on the gearbox. Let me know how you get on. Cheers

Hi! Remove the door trim and the front runner for the drop glass. It will come out then. Cheers

Hi. Take the door trim off and have a look. The bottom of the window runner is secured to the door frame near the bottom and is adjustable. Hopefully it may just be the securing screw come out. Cheers Paul

The relay should start the fuel pump running when the engine is cranking. On Mfi Escorts the purple pump relay was a very common fault so if providing an additional earth does not fix it I would be looking at the relay. Cheers.

Steve, I know you said the wiring was dead going to the pump but it could be the live or the earth. Put your meter across the pump wires (with it connected) and test the voltage when it should be running i.e. when you first switch on for 1 second or when cranking. You should have battery voltage. If not then try it again with the probe that was on the earth wire now going to a known good earth (even if it means running a wire back to the battery). If you now have battery voltage then it is the earth at fault. If you still don't then it is the feed. At least then you will know what side of the circuit to investigate. Cheers Paul

Just a thought...... I know of one that was put in the wrong way round. The pedal was really stiff at the bottom of its travel. Needless to say it dragged like hell!!

I wonder what make clutch was fitted? I would stick two a good make I.e LUK. Fierce engagements should be dampened out by the cusion plate and hub springs within the centre disc while not going into reverse would suggest a bit of drag. Maybe a bit more grease needed on the input shaft or the idle speed could be a touch too high.

Hi Nick. Historicly Ford sensors were always colour coded. I.e. the colour of the insulator around the terminal where the wire goes on. For the gauge to sit at the same place as before the sendor should be replaced with one of the same colour. After market sensors may not be the same. I would speak the your supplier or get a genuine one. Cheers Paul