Paul Grainger

Hi Spinder. I gave up looking and in the end made some from sheet steel. Good luck on the search.

The two big terminals are the supply and earth. The outer pin is earth and the other one is the yellow switched live. The smaller ones are the permenent live and the electric aerial output but I can't remember which one is which. Try powering it up and seeing which small one goes live as this will be the aerial one. The display will be blank until you get your permenent feed on. Cheers

Could be broken wires between the door and the a pillar. Pretty good place to look as that is where they flex from door opening. This can break them after a while. Cheers.

Hi Dave, The resistor on the mk 4 is strapped to the motor itself. Can only think of checking with a local parts factors to see if they can advise on availability. Failing that I guess flebay may have a used motor with one attached? Cheers

Hi, depends on what gizmo you have got! The two pin serial link is for the FDS2000 diagnostic PDU which was really dealer only kit back then. The three pin plug is for the Star tester. Again dealer level but a lot more widely available. This is the early level stuff before the standardised 16 pin DCL connector for EOBD which came out around 1995. If you can find a Star tester then make sure it is a three digit one as you will need this one for the later EEC4 engine management module fitted to your car. Might be easier to ask at your local dealer if they still have a Star tester!!! If you do find one then code 111 is all systems pass Hope this helps. Cheers Paul

Hi, as you open the bonnet it will be hanging on the right hand side strut turret. There will be a bunch of three connectors. A black three pin, a black two pin for serial data and a blue two pin. Cheers

It will do if it has an Efi engine. It is the old style star/led tester type. Should be on the n/s inner wing. Cheers

Might be worth double checking the valve timing is right. Cheers

Hi, I would check for fault codes and check for air leaks. Make sure the fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose is connected. Cheers

Nothing known that I know of. Mine failed a couple of years ago as the multiplug corroded and the terminal broke off the pump. I replaced it with a Bocsh pump which is the OE brand and has been fine since. I wonder if yours has done the same and the multi plug is still corroded causing a bad connection ? You can just about get to the plug by lifting the rear seat. Might be worth tesing the voltage to the pump wires to rule out the wiring before dropping the tank again. Cheers

Glad to hear all is well and thanks for the update. Perhaps the breather system changes with the model year. Happy cabriotleting

Hi Sharon, the T piece connects breather pipes at the back of the head on the passenger side. The breather valve is an oil separator and there is no real way of testing it unfortunately. I would just replace it. Cheers Paul

Hi Sharon. So the t piece in a bit lower down then on your photos. As you look at the engine feel with your right hand around the the top of the gearbox to the back of the head. Then it's just below. The carb cleaner must be getting in somewhere if it causes the engine speed to increase so you have definitely got an air leak. Fix this first as you may find you problem will be fixed. Why do you want to replace the tps??? Regards Paul

Hi Sharon, The pipes go around the back of the engine and there is a t piece which also splits and gives trouble.. this is worth a check. The speed sensor is fitted on the gearbox where the cable attaches and the harness goes up on to the baulkhead to a triangular 3 pin multiplug. The purpose of it is to provide a digital square wave to the ecu to inform road speed. The idea being to avoid cutting out due to throttle snap shut. In other words the revs should hang up until the car stops. The problem with these hall effect sensors is they develop an internal fault which gives supply voltage interference to the ecu which in turn thinks the car is moving when it is not, thus giving the high idle speed. The only real way to diagnose it properly is to check for interference with an oscilloscope. You could disconnect the speed sensor for a bit and see if it cures it however the engine may cut out when slowing down. Cheers Paul

Hi Sharon, Yes the valve is on the front of he crankcase and the pipe attaches to it. They just pull out with a pair of pliers. They are sometimes called clacker valves as they make a clacking noise when you shake them! I would just replace it. Incidentally Cortinas had them too! If you still have a problem then I would be looking at he speed sensor on the gearbox. Let me know how you get on. Cheers