Paul Grainger

I am afraid not. Perhaps just estimate how much you think has leaked out from what you can see on the floor. Just be a bit mindfull that it doesn't hold that much so if its lost a litre than that is a third of the oil gone! Cheers

The wire is in the multiplug which goes to the instrument cluster. The gauge gets power then earths out by a 'negative coefficient thermister' in the thermostat housing; also known as a sender unit. This means that as the temperature increases it lets more power through and the gauge goes up. If the gauge is right down low then it could be the small wire off the sender on the thermostat housing. A good test is to switch the ignition on and earth out the wire that normally goes to the sender to the engine. The gauge should go to the top of the red. If it does then the sender unit is at fault. If it doesn't it could be the gauge or its wiring. If replacing the sender then get one with the same colour insulator ring or the gauge normal position will be in a different place. Cheers

Is it just when its really hot? Could be heat from the distributor effecting the ignition amplifier. Try taking it of and putting heat proof grease on the mating surface. Cheers

Ah ok. Sorry thought you meant the garage couldn't check it!! Blocked breathers was a common problem with these and before they had speed sensors they used to 'pump' the transmission oil up the speedo cable and then it would drip on your feet!! The early type of breather that used to block was a small black rubber pipe in the end of the gearbox which pokes into the chassis leg. Sometimes they got doubled over when they were put in stopping them from working. Perhaps it's worth getting them to check that. Could stop it leaking all togrther. Cheers

Hi Linda, why can't they check the oil level? Just unscrew the bung! The sensor on the speedo drive is the speed sensor. Is it leaking from here? If so the most likely cause is a blocked breather. The gearbox takes about 2.5 - 3.0 ltrs...... ish. You fill it up untill it drips out the level bung. Sounds like you need a getter garage.

Good to hear it. Cheers

Hi, nowhere common I am afraid and there are no other fuses in the line. I am a believer in it is probably caused by what you have disturbed. Therefore it is most likely to be around the aerial area in the boot. Perhaps the cable is just old and brittle and has broken inside when you moved it. Time to get the multimeter out! From memory I think the wires are red and white and run along the passenger inner sill. Good luck.

Hi Tim. Best advise is to make sure its empty as it will be a lot lighter. I drained mine first. From what I remember mine didn't have to come right out, sat there nicely while I changed the pump. Cheers

If the Base idle and fuel mixture it set ok then you look at the speed sensor on the gearbox. Is it connected? This should hang the revs up momentarily whilst stopping. They usually get an internal fault which makes the tick over fast and people disconnect them instead of replacing them. Cheers

Hi Nick, Just an idea. Which timing mark did you use on the crank? Sounds odd I know but there are two. You need to use the second mark on the crank pulley which is about 30 degrees behind the first one. To check the timing take off the rocker cover and turn the engine over to get the timing bar back into the cam shafts. When they are locked in place you can then check the crankshaft timing mark. To adjust it just slacken the cam pulley centre bolts about half a turn, the pulley's will then spin on the cam shafts. You can then move the crank until the correct mark is aligned. When all is correctly aligned you can tighten the cam pulley's back up. When Done I would turn the engine over twice and recheck tne timing before starting the engine. Cheers

Hi, you will hear the sound of the pump internal parts working which may sound like noise through a screw driver. PAS pumps normally whine if they have a problem.

It's not too big a job but if you are unsure I would get someone else to do it. It sounds like you are not sure where the noise is coming from. I would get a mechanic to have a listen and advise. Cheers

Definitely. Is it a CVH? If so the pump is driven by the cam belt and you really don't want that to fail. Cheers

Great stuff!

Washers left over is never a good thing. You will need to slide the rod out again to put them back in. Without them the plastic bearings will pop out the pedal when you press it. Once built up correctly cable replacement is easy. Get the cable on the pedal end first by lifting the pedal up and pushing the quadrant back to hook the cable on. Then get someone to hold the pedal up (or prop it up with a screwdiver if you are on your own) and get the gearbox end on last. Cheers