Paul Grainger

Hi Nick. This is normal...... Sounds weird I know. The idle speed is supposed to hang up until the car stops, this it controlled by the ecu and speed sensor. Disconnect the sensor and it won't happen. the sensor is mounted on the gearbox and the Speedo cable goes into the top of it. The multiplug is directly above it on the baulkhead. It has three wires and is basically a hall sensor. Many of these sensors gave a problem of idle speed hanging up when stationary due to power leakage within the hall sensor fooling the ecu into thinking the car was still moving when it wasn't. Only thing is the speeds you have quoted sound a little high. Could your rev counter be reading wrong? Normal tick over speed is 800 rpm Cheers

If its a CVH then another thing you should check is the timing belt. If it is really loose then the vibrations can transmit through the cam and cause the weights in the distributor to rattle.

Try the kick panel at the bottom of the A post. Passenger side. Should be a plastic cover which pops of with a small screws driver.

Are you sure the injectors are pulsing? Were they checked using a noid is light? If so you can use the same thing on the coil pack wiring. There are three wires. The black one in the middle is the 12v feed from the ign relay. The two green ones are the earth trigger wires that go to the small edis 4 ECU on the bulkhead. Plug the noid light into the black and one of the green wires. Turn the engine over and see if it flickers. If it does then it is the coil pack. If not then it could be the edis 4 module or its related wiring. It does communicate with the main ecu using pip and saw signals which you can only test with a scope but don't worry about these. If the pip signal wire was broken then the injectors wouldn't be working and if you have lost the saw signal then the ign timing would be stuck at 10 degrees but should still start. Good luck

Keys can be cut from the number if you have it. If not then you could take out the door barrel and strip it to find out the key number. You won't get the ignition barrel out without the key; not without damaging it anyway. Good luck.

Hi, these used to suffer front heat affecting the ignition amplifier which was bolted on the side of the distributor. From memory this realy only affected the Lucas distributors with the big blue cap. There was a special grease to put under the amplifier to prevent this from happening. Don't know if it is still available from Ford but worth a go. There are a couple of different distributors which fit. They were modified to the small one with a black cap. Hope this helps.

Ok so CO2 is carbon dioxide which is not what you are checking for. The check is for CO which is carbon monoxide; this should be set to 1%. As the aim is to use most of the oxygen in the combustion process, this should be low, maybe about 0.5% this will have the effect of increasing the CO2 content which should technically be as high as possible. a realistic reading for this would be about 13.5%. Having a catalytic converter would raise this figure to about 14.5% Hope this helps.

Go by the part no on top of the sender unit to make sure you get the right one. Genuine Ford or Euros like escort SI-130 says. I got one from Euro car parts and it was OE spec made by Bosch. Cheaper alternative may be to replace just the pump from http://www.fuelpumpsonline.co.uk Good luck.

Ford's of this era never did like NGK plugs for some reason. The genuine ones always worked well but Bosch were ok too. Imo

Have you done an oil pressure check? Might be worth seeing if the pressure is dropping as the engine warms up which could indicate worn crank bearings. This would make it knock when you accelerate. Are you sure that it is the tappits as they tend to make more of a rattle sound. Saying that it is odd that it only affects these valves as they are close to the oil supply to the head and pressure problems usually affect the valves further away first i.e. nos 1 and 4. If you slide the cam out again can you feed wire down the oil delivery holes? They should come out at the cam journal. What you are describing with the top end could be normal as there is no oil pressure for the followers to work without the engine running. Has the sump been put on with sealer? Sounds odd I know but I have seen it quite a few times before where too much sealer had been used and when the sump was tightened it squirted out inside the crank case resulting in a large bit of sealer in the oil. It got sucked towards the oil pick up and caused pressure problems. This is usually accompanied be a bit of a whine from the oil pump at the front of the engine.

Wow that is high. Is that the figures for idle speed? I am assuming that now your car is pre catalyst so there is no oxygen sensor? If this is the case then yes it could be the vave problem because the HC content is basically unburt fuel which could be down to low compression however the high CO would suggest over fuelling. Does it miss fire at idle speed? If so then I would do a compression test next to check the valve problem isn't to blame. If you fixed a missfire by tightening the stud then you have probhably fixed the emmissions problem too. Please let me know how you get on. Cheers

A plastic wedge is a useful tool. Use one as wide as you can to spread the load out and get it as far behind the glass as you can to minimise the risk of breakage. Good luck!

Why do you think it is a valve problem? Does it miss fire? Also what engine do you have? Hi CO is usually rich fuel mixture but this can be caused by several things. The Zetec engines used to have problems with sticky valves. Will wait to see your data. Cheers.

Is the switch in upside down?!?

Has your car failed the test? List the print out data and i will have a look.

http://www.fuelpumpsonline.co.uk

Have you got voltage at the window? Haynes manuals are pretty good for wiring diagrams.

Need to do a few tests to diagnose this. Sounds more like a switch fault.

How did you wire thd motor to the battery? The earth for the motor through its body which goes on the negative of the battery. Put the positive to one of the terminals to turn one way. Swap the live to the other terminal and it should run backwards. From my experience it is quite common for paint jobs to unintentionally create bad earths due to the paint and would look at this. Maybe the doors no longer have a good earth? A simple test would be, with the motor installed in the door, to run a thick wire from the motor body to the striker on the pillar to give it a good earth and try it again. If it works then it is an earth fault. To fix it you may have to remove the doors again and take the paint of so that the hinges make good electrical contact with the body. Remember the motors will take about 10 amps to work. Good luck.

The pick ups in the distributor create just small signals which are not capable of switching the primary ignition coil. The amplifier uses these signals to decide when to do the coil switching. When they switch off the primary coil then a voltage is created in the second winding in the coil, this is the one which gives you the spark at the plugs. Hope this helps.

Broken speed sensor maybe? They are only plastic.! Disconnect the cable from the sensor and twist the cable clockwise with you fingers as quick as you can and get someone to watch the Speedo to see if it moves. If it doesn't then check the cable by pulling the inner. It shouldn't come out. If the Speedo needle moves then the cable is ok. Unscrew the sensor and check if the plastic drive is intact and able to transmit the drive from the gearbox. It is doubtful to be a fault with the gearbox drive. Good luck

There is a switch around the door lock on each side which arm and disarm the alarm when the door is locked and unlocked. It could be that the one on the drivers side is faulty. Testing it is easy. Open the bonnet and bounce the alarm switch quickly about 10 times and the alarm horn should chirp once. Then go around the car opening and closing the doors and operating the locks. Each time you should hear a chirp from the alarm, if not then the control unit is not receiving a signal from that switch. To exit test mode then just leave it alone for about 30 seconds and it will chirp twice. This is self test mode exiting. Hope this helps.

The switch for the fan is the big two wire one in the thermostat housing. Most likely is that it is faulty and not switching the fan on. If the fan is not working when the engine is too hot disconnect this switch and short across the wires with a piece of wire. If the fan runs then the switch is faulty. Cheap and easy to replace as it just unscrews but do it with the engine cold. The mk 4 also has two black wires near the strut mount on the drivers side inner wing. They just poke out of the loom and do nothing! Connect them together and the fan should run. If not the fan could be faulty. Good luck

The outer sills are different you are quite right. Had to make some for mine using sheet steel and a metal folding machine. Most good bodyshops should have one of these. Good luck with your project.

What cylinder is it? With the engine running, pull off each lead In turn with a pair of plastic pliers to avoid shocks. see which one doesn't make a difference. Swap the plugs around and se if the misfire moves to a different cylinder, if it does then it is the plugs. If not, then check the compressions. If all is ok then you could be looking at an injector. Good luck.