allblue

If you do find out there is always the danger that it too may be faulty. However the good news is they can be repaired fairly easily. See my tutorial on MK6 escort fusbox repair fun. If you have a soldering iron and some solder it's free of charge to do. Did mine three years ago when it started playing up. Never had a problem since!

Nice one Ollie, Car's looking beautiful

That thing gave me earache! But bloody nice to watch though. Would be nice to have one as a daily driver, keep those pesky tailgaters at bay

Hi Stu, Any joy? If you need a hand just let me know, don't mind helping out.

Aye, I'm going, but which car to take?

Look forward to see how you progress this one. Looks to have the potential to be a good car, I guess the bodyshell is solid?

Don't go to Ford, they don't sell the pump bits. Go to your vw dealer instead. They can get hold of the parts. VW cabs 1997-2001 have the same pump motor as escorts.

There is new telescopic bits for sale on ebay for abount £20. I guess you aerial does not retract all the way down? See my tutorial on regreasing the aerial. If you have some grease and torx screws its a free and easy fix. Fixed mine and its been working perfectly now.

At the back of the cards is a template of where the switch hole sits. The switch hole in the insulation behind the door card pops out. I used this as a template for cutting the hole. This template is the exact size you need to cut, BUT ensure you cut smaller than the template initially and gradually making further cuts to see if the switch housing fits flush into the card. Cut too big a hole and you'd regret it! Also do wha I didn;t and protect the vinyl with masking tape, etc to prevent damage.

Rear cards and new switches in place. May try to locate some Ghia rear cards as those winder holes don't look too right. And also me being careless, slipped with the knive and slashed the vinyl trim on the passenger card, doh! Not happy with that as the card is in new cond. Oh well, gotta keep hunting for those elusive parts

Tori here with her standard EFI engine bay.

Well the rain held off for most of the day and since I managed to source the final relay and two new rear window switches, now was a good time to start fitting the motors. Before I started I checked the motors to ensure they worked. Note that the two rear window switches are part of the electrical circut. Without these in place you cannot operate the windows from the 4 way master switch. Once the door cards are off and windows out, just unbolted the old and rebolted the new. I made sure that when securing the cable that it did not interfere with the motor. Just used cable ties to hold it in place. When changing regulators over, the adjustment (lateral & height) needs to be done. Then it was a case of putting everything back together. One last bit is to fine tune the holes I've cut into the rear card for the switches and fill the manual winder holes with some blanking plugs. And thats it, all done! Phew!!

For a standard spec Ford I'd stick to genuine ones. Can't go wrong and they last ages.

Looks good, me too thought those were new wheels Saw your earlier post with the boot decal, nice touch that. Whta next in the pipeline?

Have you mamaged to your your windows? Where is this magic button located, do you have any pics?

Yep, pretty cunning that fuse as you'd expect them all to be in the main fusebox. With your cab do all 4 windows go down together at the touch of only one button?

Thanks Stu, Not a difficult job by all means, just time consuming

Soldered the wires where I used scotch locks today. Refitted the sill trims. Went to scrappy today and got one more relay, just one to get now. Also tidied up the relays under the seat by attaching them with cable ties to the pre drilled holes, to keep them secure.

Pics are very nice Avril, And some quality cabs on display. LOL Stu perched on top of his cab Was going to pop up for a day out but ended wiring up the rear electric window loom which took all of six hours.

***PROGRESS UPDATE*** Following the discovery that the wiring arrangement at the fusebox connector are different I seperated the electric window portion of the floor loom I'd obtained. For the finishing touch, I rewound some loom tape over the wires to help keep the wires tidy and well insulated. I also discovered the purple wire with a fuse is a 12v ignition supply. Helpfully, in the drivers side kickwell, hidden beneath the isulation is a white plug with a single black wire, connected to nothing. This is a 12v ignition supply, ready to use and the plug at the end of the electric window loom fitted perfectly. Problem sorted! With today being such a nice day I thought lets make a start. So out comes the seats and centre console. Disconnect battery BEFORE removing seats. Then it was a case of taking the electric window floor loom, starting at the window switch and feeding in under the carpet. I made sure the loom was held together to the existing loom and the insualtion of wires were good. It is important not to rush these stages as the last thing one needs is a car fire later down the line. I dedicded to keep the exsisting elec window wiring in place as it would be more of a job to seperate this from the existing floor loom. Adding more wires to the mix adds bulk, but with a bit of care an time the new elec window floor loom comfortably alongside the existing loom (next pic); Then it was a case of feeding the wires to the rear of the car. I undid the screws holding the rear card and was able to feed the wires and relay holders through. The relays for the passenger side front & rear windows and drivers side rear all sit under the rear bench. I just need to obtain two more relays to complete the circut. Pics - Drivers side under bench: ( white sqaure is relay holder) Passenger side: Spent a bit of time making sure these all were secure and not obstructing screws and trim, etc. In order to merge the new loom with existing, I cut the pueple/blue, white and yellow wires on the drivers side and the puple/yellow & purple/white wires of the existing loom. As a temporary measure I used some scotch locks as my soldering iron was not available to hand. Will solder them properly tomorrow. On the drivers side there is a thick black (earth) wire. This thick earth wire is not present on the standard loom, so I just took the length of this and created an earth on the inner strut brace mounting point by the accelerator pedal. Careful to position the wire out of the way of the pedals. Now that the front and rear portions of the loom were taken care of it was just a case of putting everything back. Here are hte new window switch loom against the originals. Once the console was back in, the old loom tucked away neatly. The new loom shows here: New switch ready to fit! Ford charge around £70 for this but I got this of ebay thanks to Ford Parts UK. And here it is all fitted! Seats back in and battery reconnected and yes...........IT WORKS!!!! Well only the front windows. Have yet to fit the rear window motors and also need to visit scrappy for two more relays. Time taken to fit floor loom to car today = 6.5 hours (including a mini valet whilst seats were out). Stay tuned for stage 2: fitting the elec rear motors.......Coming soon.

I am working on a project to convert my cab to power rear windows, since my MK6 cab only has manual winders. Thanks Ford!! MK5 and MK6 rear window wiring is different. But I guess they all work on the same principle. Does your windows all go up together on the touch of one button? When I was looking at the loom I got hold of (MK6 elec windows *4 loom) there is a purple wire that goes to an area around the drivers kickwell area. This wire goes to a 40amp fuse and then goes somewhere else (not sure). This additional urple wire is not present on cars with manual rear windows. I have recently constructed a wiring diagram for the elec windows as Haynes manuals do not have wiring diagrams for cars with rear elec windows. From my wiring diagram this purple wire seems to feed all four relays which control the one-touch function. Maybe the fuse has blown? I cannot advise where exactly this fuse sits since I brought the loom on ebay. It is not part of the main fusebox.

Sorry, this computer is driving me nuts! The two connectors which go to the fusebox have the wires in a different layout to how it is on my car. I am guessing this is down to the different fuseboxes used depending on the specification of your car. So I am now going to have to cut the loom and splice integrate it into the existing loom. Here is a pic of the loom uncut to show how it sits in the car: I have seperated the elec window loom from the floor loom, boy is there a lot of wiring! In the meantime I have also sketched out a wiring diagram which may be of use to some. Especially since Haynes manuals do not cover electric rear windows. Also noticed there is an additional purple wire (this does not exist on cars with manual rear windows) which goes to a 40amp fuse and then becomes a green wire, then goes to a single connector. Any ideas where this goes? Looking at the wiring diagram, it seems it may have something to do with the one touch down function on all 4 windows. Any ideas anyone? I'm just not sure where to connect this to? May be a power source?

Slight problem. T

Well, finally got the parts to convert my mk6 cab to electric rear windows, all for a bargin price of £31 quid. This was both electric window mechs and also the complete uncut floor loom from a MK6 Ghia cab to do the conversion. Its gonna be a interior out job (seats and rear cards) to get under the carpet to install the loom. But luckily the dash does not have to come out as the loom only goes as far as the fusebox. Will post a how-to guide when the fun starts!!

MK5 cabriolet went on sale Sept 1990. Have your VIN number (not registration) entered into the parts computer and it should bring up the date of build. I had this done for my MK4 a while back when Ford were still using Microcat. They use ecat now so not too sure if the data may still be there?