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Escort Cabriolet Club


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Everything posted by allblue

  1. allblue

    Escort cabriolet full tonneau fitting

    You should do! The Mk6 escorts are much nicer to drive than the mk4, especially on motorway trips.
  2. Hello all A Long time since I last posted. But a couple of years back I sourced a full tonneau for my mk6 cabrio. Now my car did not have this option from the factory, so I brought some tenax pegs and after careful measuring, fitted them into the dash. So far I have been using the cover with just the tenax pegs to secure it: It looked ok,but sagged in the middle as I could not secure it to the b pillar as intended. I have now managed to source a fitting kit from a cab that was being broken. I've got the a pillar eyelets, b pillar eyelets (both sides), the a pillar rubber, b pillar rubber, b pillar plastic cover and the rear passenger cards (which has the Velcro fastener riveted to it Managed today to get the easy bit out of the way, fitting the a pillar eyelets. The a pillar rubber has the cut outs from the factory, where the eyelet is mounted, so that the trim does not get in the way.. This meant I did not have to cut my rubber trim and made the job more straightforward. Next on the list to is remove the rear cards and rivet the Velcro bits to the back (where the badge goes). Then next is to fit the b pillar mounts. Not sure if the holes are there or if I need to drill some. As with the a pillar trim, the b pillar rubber and plastic surround have the cut outs in place already, so should speed up the process,
  3. allblue

    Escort cabriolet full tonneau fitting

    They commonly go walkabout! You still have the mk6 Ollie?
  4. allblue

    Escort cabriolet full tonneau fitting

    Hi, No unfortunately. The cab that was being broken did not have the full tonneau with it. Its a hard to find part on its own. Ford, surprisingly have it as NLA. At least the mounts should help it hold up better.
  5. allblue

    Escort cabriolet full tonneau fitting

    Pic of the eyelets now in place! Off subject - whilst working on the car, did a part service - air filter, spark plugs and cleaned out the inlet of carbon. Also got hold of a genuine Ford new ignition coil and gen Ford HT leads, as the car has now done 145K, so thought it worth updating those. Has made a difference, acceleration is noticeably improved. So happy with the result! Oil change next and service rear brakes and brake fluid change. Then its MOT time :-)
  6. allblue

    Mk5 B Ford Uk Promotional Car

    The cockpit cover comes in handy on hot days. I use mine with the roof up. Keeps the sun from ageing the plastics!
  7. allblue

    Cd Changer Unit Wiring / Fiting

    You might be better off getting the corect changer for the escort. CD auto-changer was an option for ford escorts and was located under the passenger seat. I brought a new old stock one for the ford focus from fordparts uk last year (check them out, they may havesome left). These are compatible with RDS5000,6000 radios. The kit comprised of the auto-changer, wiring, and mounting brackets. All for £20. The mounting brackets between escort and focus seats are different through, so worth bearing in mind, Best is to source a cabrio in the breakers with the autochanger option and take the whole passenger seat and wiring.
  8. allblue

    Event: Simply Ford

    Thank you Nick, nice to have met you on the day. Great photos, but you're right, shame about the rain though.
  9. allblue

    Clutch Ratchet

    Would it not be easier to remove the dash to make it simpler? The dash comes out quite easy on mk4's. I need to look at mine, but I will end up doing the ratchet whist the dash is out.
  10. allblue

    Just Got A Mk6!

    Hello and welcome:-) Imperial blue suits these cars well. The wipers do not auto wipe following the washers. For the clock you will need to remove the dash binnacle and remove the clock, but it does sound like a loose bulb. Be careful removing the binnacle as some of the retainers have a habit of flying off, never to be seen again. Most radios should have an output to the power aerial. This is usually a blue wire, but probably best to check your radio handbook.
  11. allblue

    Event: Simply Ford

    Hi Ollie Hope you are well. Please put me down too. Looking forward to this!
  12. allblue

    Bumper Bummer

    Hi Mk6 bumpers do not have any black plastic moulding on the bumpers. How you got a pic? It may be a Mk5 version?
  13. allblue


    Crikey, that car has been keeping you busy! But nothing major there I see, all the stuff you'd expect from an older car. Mine (deflector) just sits in the boot most times, otherwise its indoors. Both tonneau's just stay indoors as they don't get used much.
  14. allblue

    H Plate Mk5 New Project...

    Mines a MK6 and used daily trhoughout all weathers, usually on bike carrying duty. I like the fact you don't see many escorts on the road now (even the MK6 type as I have), so its nice driving something different to most of the population. The only downside is the post 1990 fords seem to rust more than pre 1990.
  15. allblue


    Great news on the rot. Are they keeping the windscreen and glass in? Looking forward to seeing the finished result. :-)
  16. allblue

    Checking Over My New ( Oldie ) Cab

    If you're having electrical problems, another culprit is the fusebox. Worth checking that out. The boxes for MK5/6 escorts were poorly made and the solder joints dry and crack over time.
  17. allblue

    Tonneau Cover ???

    Hello, I have one of these covers. Does not see much use though. Mine was not fitted as standard, I retro fitted it. Check you get the rear support bars too, as these quite commonly go missing.
  18. allblue

    H Plate Mk5 New Project...

    Nice work with the roof. Don't think I'd be brave enough to fit one myself. But its more satisfyling doing it yourself, even though there is plenty of swaring to be had in between!
  19. allblue

    Headlamp Issues

    I think you are starting to have fusebox issues. Had a similar problem with the headights back in the day, but resoldering all joints on the box fixed it.
  20. allblue

    Se 500 Cabby Prices

    These cars are not numbered so there will be no unique number to it. 4000+ were made altogether. How much one is worth is really down to condition and how well it has been looked after. There was a 35K mile all blue at auction no long back, but the condition was awful for such a low mileage car. Clearly had ben neglected. A dealer brought it for 6K thou and the car was relisted one bay soon after. 6K for a 70K mile cabriolet IMHO is too much. I would have thought 3.5K max. 6K is what I would pay for a very low mileage example (<30K miles), that has been exceptionally looked after, with all original panels, etc.
  21. There are loads of variants of these boxes, all dependent on year and also spec levels. I doubt that will work on your model as the part number is different. You need one that matches the one you have already. Or you can do what I did and resolder all joints. I did this eight years ago on mine and it is still going strong.
  22. allblue

    Insurance For Youngsters

    Insurance is nuts these days. I pay 250 fully comp for my 1.6 cabrio (90 bhp) Just got quoted for an Mk3 focus RS (that I'm considering buying new - 300 bhp) - £300 fully comp. You work that one out. But all in, I'm actually happy with that :-)
  23. Ok guys & girls. Common problem on MK6 cabs is the aerial seizing and not fully retracting, usually the bottom section. Here's how to fix this issue. This was my project for today and I can report my aerial is now working as it should. Moderators: you may want to include this within the tutorials section. The good thing about this is it's costs £0 as long as you have the required tools. You will need some grease, WD40, 10mm spanner, 17mm spanner & various sizes of torx sockets (from t8 upwards) & maybe degreaser. 1) Firstly open boot. On the left hand side, remove the two black trim securing screws with a screwdriver and pull back the boot trim. The aerial is secured to the body by a 10mm bolt. Remove this bolt. Now from the outside of the car, undo the black retaining nut using the 17mm spanner. The aerial will now be free. 2) There is a small module on top of the aerial motor housing, which is clipped to the aerial mast. Remove this module by sliding it away from the mast. Undo the radaio antenna cable by unscrewing and pulling outwards. You should now be able to get the aerial out of the body via the opening in the boot inner panel. 3) With the aerial out of the car undo the torx screw in the centre of the black unit. The Y shaped bit where the antenna cable feeds-in will unscrew. This will detatch the mast from the main body of the motor unit. 4) Open up the motor casing. Undo the two torx screws securing the motor and withdraw the motor. Pull out the large white cogs (this is made up of two pieces). Undo the two small torx screws and withdraw the 1/4 curve plastic. Be careful! - underneath this is a small metal pin and wheel. Remove these and keep safe. 5) From the reverse of the motor assembly pull out the large black disc. The pull out the disc underneath, or pull on the aerial mast. The electric aerial toothed cable will spring out. Now pull the mast free from the main unit. 6) To unseize the mast I applied plenty of WD40 and left to soak. I then opened the aerial as far as I could and with the tip of the aerial on the ground, I held down with my foot and tried to force/pull the aerial open. Gradually it opened bit by bit. This took quite a few attempts. Be careful not to damamge the plastic toothed cable otherwise its a new unit you'll be buying! Also avoid bending the aerial. Once free clean the corrosion from the mast and open & close numerous times to smooth out the aerial. Wipe down the aerial and remove as much of the WD40 as possible. 7) Prior to reassembly I degreased all internal parts from the unit (except for the motor of course!). Re thread the tooth cable back into the main unit and out of the back. Go as far as possible so the aerial appears in the fully closed state. Apply grease to the cable and gradually open the aerial, gradually applying grease to the cable along the way. Do this until arial is fully open. Close aerial and reopen a few times to get the grease moving through the unit. *** Ensure the aerial mast is fully closed before proceeding!*** 8) Reassemble the white cog. Note the metal spring which goes in between the cogs. Also not the notch on each cog which should align in the middle of the spring clip. Reseat the cog. Note the cogs only fits one way. By refitting the motor now, the teeth should align perfectly. If it does not, the white cog is the wrong way around. See pic for correct alignment. Apply grease to the white cog and white plastic screw below the motor. 9) Pull cable through unit so aerial is fully closed (tip touching the mast housing). Reassemble the metal pin & wheel & resecure the banana shaped plastic retainer and apply some grease here too. See pic to ensure correct fit. Do not secure this part prior to refitting cog as this will cause the toothed cable to jam within the unit (happened to me). 10) On the reverse of the unit, push the toothed cable into the groove at the back of the internal shaped disc and reseat into unit and slide clockwise to ensure cable seats correctly. Be careful that the cable does not pop out. It may take a few attempts to get right at first. Reattach the outer black disc noting the two grooves to aling with the hole. The disc should sit perfectly flush to the main unit housing. If it doesn't check the cable has not come free and the grooves on the outer disc are in alingment with the centre hole. 11) Whilst holding this outer disc secure with you hand, turn over and use the motor belt to operate the aerial. Check it opens smoothly and is not rough in operation other the motor will overheat and not work. Reattach the cover plate and secure using the torx screw. 12) Prior to refitting, check everything works as it shoul by reconnecting the multi-plug to the unit and operating and switching off the radio. Hopefully the aerial should now raise and retract fully! Do this a few times so the grease can work its way through the unit. 13) Refit is more or less reversal of fitting (thanks Hayne's!). Note if after refitting the aerial does not open, loosen the black outer retianing nut with the 17mm spanner and try again. 14) You should now have a fully functional aerial & you can also feel pleased that you did not need to purchase a new one
  24. allblue


    v5 - not always, depends how the original ford dealer filled out the forms for DVLA. Cat C means significant accident damage which was deemed uneconomic to repair, but capable of being repaired and put back onto the road. This affects it's resale value - if you are interested in it, check carefully where the repair/s have been carried out and quality of work. This car has been on ebay for some time now, so no doubt people in the past have walked away from it.
  25. allblue

    My Mk4

    Stu, A credit to you Sir! . Cab looks fantastic.