Vincygav

If for a mk5, it would be the same as the RS2000, try jd motorsport spares, they have loads of them

Does the problem when it doesnt start occur when the engine is hot or cold. When was the last time you changed your spark plugs?

Is your speedo cable connected properly

If you do want another linkage, you coudl do searches for the same 1.8 as an Si/XR3i or RS2000

It depends on what the 1.8 is.If it is the 1.8 zetec with 130bhp spec engine then no. As that had the MTX75 gearbox. Easy way to adjust it is with the car up in axle stands then slacken the 10 bolt underneath and move the gearlever as though you were operating it in service to simulate changing gears. Adjust the rod so that all gears could be engaged then tighten the nut

Some years ago my Orion did this when the sensor on the door lock switch as in the wrong position, it made the clock light just stay on permanent red,

pmsl, maybe they did it to make the side lights flash to the bass.

Check the connector, if not remove the sensor put the connector on and put it in hot water or take a blow torch to it, for a short while then see if the dash guage moves.

You can get them made up at parts shops or motor factors. Just take your old one off so they can see the length. They just bend the pipe and put the ends on. Or you can measure the length of it and tell them. Then once you go back home, bend the pipe to size of your car. I had a few of them, but threw them away last year, due to lack of intrest in them.

You can use them. However I had use a mk4 pump on a mk5 and it was slower. Strange thing is the mk4 pump was longer in size, but slower at movement.

Top answer bud

I agree it looks fully butchered sadly.

IIRC arent the relays at the drivers footwell kick panel for the electric roof and also one for the inhibit to prevent the roof operating whilst driving.

Have you checked the wiring or the light unit itself.

The numbers you gave are not an official Ford part number. Sounds more like an aftermarket number. It is the same as the 1.6 and 1.8 zetec or also try searching for mk5 RS2000 as its the same.

I have done a slight modification to the roof now to stop water seeping in through the gap of the window seals. You can see this where the gap line should be. I cut 2 pieces of fabric from excess from when I changed the roof. So its matching blue and mohair. I cut them to 8cm by 3 cm. I marked a blue line, at the 4cm point, so it would be halfway. Shows the underside where it has been test fitted to see how it would fit. The piece of fabric cut to make the seal cover. The superglue gel applied to the underside The nearside is finished The offside is complete

I have kinda come up with a part solution due to my cabby roof leaking. I have realised that the rubber seals have a major part in this. I just checked and at the moment it is only the nearside is a very slight drip, compared to before it was letting in a lot, and the offside just a little. The offside appears to have worked. The pic below shows where water seems to come into the roof seal via the front. This triangular block appears to allow water in as it is not fixed. I had previously put sillicone sealant, but it didnt last at all. I have now bought Stormsure 5g on ebay. This is also good for split roofs. http://www.ebay.co.u...=item51a5bf8a81 Item number:350673144449 When I did use this, not shown in any of the pics, have to take some of it done. I left it for 6 hours before closing the roof. Water travels further along the triangular block in the seal on the roof itself. It is also worth sealing this up with stormsure as the water can go further back near the pillar. A wet drivers seat because of these flipping roof seals. The passenger side seat was worse. This is the passenger side seal that leaks far more than the drivers side at the time. Took this pic when it rained and you can see the water coming through. It was sometimes so bad that it would run further back along the seal and also leak out just before the b pillar. This soaked my rear passenger footwell to a puddle pond. Blue arrow shows where water comes into the triangular block. There is a normal exit for this by the bottom windscreen door A pillar. I had to get a syringe with hot car wash to pump it down here to clear it out of tree sap etc to allow better drainage. The green arrow shows where it was exiting into the car itself. I had even get felt adhesive pads to try to stem the leak, but it didnt work. Ended up removing them after the pics were taken. And glued the triagular block behind it with stormsure.

Having a bit of a downpour today, I went and check my cabby to see if it was flooded. It is 100% bone dry. I am so happy now, finally the leaking is gone. So looks like all my experiments have worked. I urge anyone with a roof leak to do the mod that I had done on the post here http://www.escortcabrioletclub.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/24716-leak-solution/?hl=%2Broof+%2Bleak I would try and repost it in this new thread also.

Or do you mean the timing belt went. The alternator belt shouldnt lead to bent valves. If its the timing belt, you can get away with changing the valves or an exchange cylinder head. IIRC when this happened to my bro's XR3i some years ago, all I did was change the belt and had no problems.

The escort they had over there was completely different, good luck with that one. Your better of your a Collins powechip. They are very similar and also can be bought of them via ebay. Just supply them your ECU 4 letter code and they would do the rest.

Or check the relays also.

I have done a slight modification to the roof now to stop water seeping in through the gap of the window seals. You can see this where the gap line should be. I cut 2 pieces of fabric from excess from when I changed the roof. So its matching blue and mohair. I cut them to 8cm by 3 cm. I marked a blue line, at the 4cm point, so it would be halfway. Shows the underside where it has been test fitted to see how it would fit. The piece of fabric cut to make the seal cover. The superglue gel applied to the underside The nearside is finished The offside is complete

If its not the relay, then its the stalk.

Due to lack of activity in my car, as it was not used the past 3 years much. I did not realise the seat backs had seized. IIRC it could be a MOT requirement for the seat back to be latched. I had try everything, I was almost going to take the seat back covers off to try to find out the problem. But when I realised the catches that anchor onto the seat base frame was not even moving to the lift rod handle. I suspected there was my problem. Although spraying it out with WD-40 didnt free it initially. I had to take some drastic measures. I took out the ol mallet hammer! I then hit the c- shaped anchor in downward position to replicate the seat locked. You can see this in the pic where the green arrows are. I then pushed it back up by lifting the seat rod handle to up (shown by the red arrows). I had to repeatedly do this for around 5 mins, then it freed up. So hooray, I can now put by seat back rest back, without it moving forward. So it is nice and secure like it should be.

Due to inactivity of my car not being a daily driver and not really being used for the past 3 years. The stop light switch on the pedal seemed to have seized up. Instead of buying a new one (they cost far more than the standard non ABS 2 pin ones) I repaired it. I opened up the cover, then sprayed it with electrical contact cleaner. The terminals tend to drop down in the assembly, this causes the stop light not to come on as the contacts tend to miss once the operation of sliding back and forth. I had to bend it to make sure it does not drop down after repeated operation. In both pics you can see one of the terminals that is lower, this is the problem stopping it from working. It was adjusted afterwards. First pic shows operation of it when pedal is pressed. Second pic shows operation when pedal is NOT pressed.