Vincygav

Mousey your headlight/wiper unit stalk is gone, common problem. Either burnt out terminals in the switch or the circuit board. They sell them on ebay, best to buy new.

Just a lil mini write up of fitting HID zenon conversion kit - not a perfect one, but something. The kit - which I bought from racebits. Got the 6000k H4 version Pull the covers off the headlights. On the mk5 with RS2000/Cosworth headlights it is different than the normal one. In the picture to the left is the H4 bulb assembly and to the right is the H3 bulb which is used for the main (flash) beam. I put stick pads underneath the ballast to mount on the inner wing. Then connect the plug & play connectors in, just one of them connects to the feed that would have gone onto the H4 bulb. You can see the HID bulb in the pic. I connected one of the HID's to see the difference. This was in the evening getting dark and the difference was unbelievable, it was mega bright compared to the standard. The left lamp is the standard H4 (plus these H4 are the phillps vision blue zenon) but still not as good as the HID that I fitted to the right of the picture. Shows it connected up to the headlamp. Second pic taken with the camera flash of. Halogen to the left, HID on the right. HID bulb, with the Phillpis blue vision zenon. The Phillips blue vision was one of two that passed the legal requirements of light path and still delivered brightness when test by auto express, the rest were poor quality beam or light inadequte.

Toad Ai606 cat1 alarm.

IF the servo is more closer to the nearside, then start by the procedure. offside rear, nearside rear, offside front, then nearside front. To start off, make sure you have enough fluid in the master cylinder. pump the pedal until it feels firm. then if you have a pressure bleeding kit connect it, if not, get someone to keep their foot down on the pedal after it was firm. then release the rear offside nipple until fluid flows, could take about a minute. once it flows, lock the nipple, then repump the brake till hard, keep foot down to the floor, then reopen the nipple.do this procedure until it it free of bubble, and do the procedure for the rest of the calipers.

No it is not unusual at all. I had a fusebox ending BBB.

You may end up having to buy wire from maplins and solder it in.

Would need a lot to go with it, virtually both the ECU and fusebox loom and a lot of splicing.

Bodywise, nothing to be altered. Stuff you would need to buy is the engine, exhaust manifold & cat, fusebox, ecu, ecu loom to engine bay, fusebox loom to engine bay. Since you have the 130bhp si, many of it is similar,so you wont need to buy much for the conversion.

Also get genuine Ford and make sure they are torqued with the vehicle on the ground.

gunsons one for about £15 or you can build your own one as I am doing at the moment. The one i am building can test the ABS system, plus it can link into your laptop. I have a gunsons one, although it cant do ABS, generally it is good though. The one I am building is based on the one at this site http://homepage.ntlworld.com/a.harby2/ggpfcrpg.html

You can use a mk3/4 roof pump on a mk5/6 only thing is, that it is the mk3/4 one is longer in body and when put on a mk5/6 it runs more slower. I did this, in the end I got back another mk5/6 for my mk5, as I liked the speed my mk5 one run at.

as PIP said, check the rear lamps, some of them are common for letting water in. Take them off, clean up around them and put some weather sealant around it.

As above,check out your blower motor resistor block or the dashboard switch.

They are Brown - Earth 'Ground' 6 Brown & White - To Ford Alarm system 5 Grey & Yellow - Illumination 4 Yellow - Ignition 'ACC' 3 Red - Battery 'Permanent live' 1

A temp repair would be to put some black sealant around it

SOunds like fusebox, or the position of the doorlock barrel ring alarm sensors - one of them could be buggered.

Check ebay, they do come up from time to time

If the light comes on after you drive the car, then it is likley to be the sensors. If it comes on instantly when ingition is turned on and does not go out, then it could be the pump faulty, relay, or break in the wiring somewhere.

no heat could mean either the cable is broken to the matrix, or the heater matrix is gone or blocked up with crap. As for the fan not working on position 1, this is the resistor block normally located on top of the blower motor under the scuttle panel in the bonnet area.

WHen you put in the new battery, did it turn over slow as well?

maybe there may have been a problem with the alarm why it was disconnected, especially if its an older no cat 1 or cat 2 rating.

IS the fuse blown, think it is 10amp combined with the brake circuit

What version Escort do you have? Is the ABS light coming on.

You can try to adjust the roof locking handle hooks so they extended further, it has a little screw by the side, then you twist the hooks round to extend it.

You could try putting sealant around the seals