Vincygav

It only has two connectors, if that didn't solve it, check out the relays. If not then its the fusebox gone pete tong. Wiring diagram is at back of Haynes manual.

Also make sure the fuel pump wire is connected to the battery. It is easy to forget this and IIRC would also make the red immobiliser light come on.

Make sure the last 3 letters/numbers match. Try ebay

I got fedup with the feel of the mk5 clutch pedal. It is bad enough driving a car without a hydraulic clutch. Sometimes, the nature of the mk5 auto adjusting ratchet system can make pushing the clutch pedal hard at times, especially after repeated use or engine has warmed up. I bought the clutch pedal from Burton Power who have them in stock, it is genuine Ford mk6 item. Part number 1029012 costs £32 If you can remove the whole pedal box it would be easier, I couldn't be bothered so did it via just unbolting the steering rack clamp (10mm bolt) and dashboard lower cover and taking the footwell lamp bulb to use as a torch. I did not remove the seat as some may do, I just lined up old sofa cushions and lay them outside the car with the door wide open. I did experiment once the new pedal was on with different arrangements using the original clutch cable and a shorter one. Also used the black original mk5 quadrant and the newer improved angle white quadrant. Although with every other method, it ended up with the clutch pedal sitting to high. I had to cut 10 teeth of the ratchet to get a decent pedal position. Also don't forget to remember the setup of where the yellow plastic spring washers go right of the clutch pedal and left of the brake pedal, onto the pivot shaft. Only part I am missing is the spring part number 7333648 which retails from Ford for £7.58 ex VAT I am not too sure where it attaches on the pedal system for the mk6. I guess it stops the pedal from being lifted upwards. As this is the only thing different now that I have upgraded to mk6. The mk5 Pedal setup Brand new mk6 pedal A second spare mk5 pedalbox unit with black ratchet mk5 pedal removed from car with white replacement ratchet New pedal fitted onto assembly test fitting, didn't put back all washers yet though. Clutch cable removed from gearbox clutch arm Old mk5 clutch ratchet and auto adjusting pawl system Both pedal ratchet quadrant designs. Still have the spring attached that was used in the mk5 pedal setup. white quadrant where I count 10 teeth and draw a line where I would cut it with the saw showing the ratchet quadrant cut ready to fit

Ouch sorry to hear, where and when was it stolen. I guess the registration is B491 URH

Also check the switched live wire from the fusebox to the starter motor, the whole thing. Mine played up and replaced two starter motors thinkgins it wasn't good as as always getting hot start problems where the starter wouldn't turn, even changed battery twice because of it. Over the years they tend to create more resistance, worse when hot.

It is mk5. You would need new lower arms, they do go bad after a while. Most tend to go for genuine Ford as they last longer.

Check you don't have an air leak around the manifold sucking in unmetered air. If you have a lambda or throttle position sensor, check those out too.

Only thing I know some people fitted the diesel Escort starter motor. It is bigger in size and would be a tight fit, but it fits. What is wrong with the standard starter.

check the wire that feeds back from the alternator via the starter motor. Likely it is breaking down internally to cause the flicker effect. If you do a wiggle test to it when it is running, you would see the light on the dash change under various positions you bend the wire.

Make sure you have not overfilled the fuel tank trying to brim it. This causes it to go in the overfill and it how you smell it.

Maroon or red

have you checked the fuse hasn't blown. Think its a 15 amp for the radio. Power roof only works in key position 1, unless you remove the inhibitor relay to allow you to run it with the engine on.

Changed them over many times, it wasn't that bad. Had other jobs on the car doing that were a fucking nightmare, like setting the timing chain tensioner etc.

I think its the fuel pump relay gone or EFI relay. Brown one for fuel pump, yellow/green/red EFI one.

carhoods.com is an American site, it has custom made bonnets (hoods) for their market cars.

What a complete bellend, the fact that he even asks you what car it is says he is a knob. Then the snobbery when you say its an Escort is pathetic. So if you told him it was a Aston Martin he probably would have been licking your boots and trying to sell you a sack full of products. Trouble with companies like Auto Glym is when they have people like that working for them it does the company no justice of an old fashion dinosaur image.

Sounds more like a fueling issue not a starter as you mention it cuts out if you leave it running when warm. I guess it is a mk3 Escort by your title but you don't mention the engine type. Also if the wire from the alternator to the battery has corroded, this can cause this and kill your battery;although you may have known it was this as the battery light would have been flickering.

Think its a 10mm or 13mm spanner IIRC

Check out the Ford manual.

The standard setup is that it can only operate the roof when in ignition position 1. If tried whilst engine is running it would not work. You can however get around this by removing a relay in the o/s kickpanel that works as an inhibitor.

If there is about 2-3 cm before it reaches the top you would not get it any further up. If you can take your hand and push it up further, then it means the top teeth on your window regulator is worn. So when the window reaches this height, the gear on the window motor can no longer grip it. The cause of wear on these is due to the window being pushed against the top of the roof frame every time you open and close the door. Many newer cars tend to move the window up about 2 seconds after the door is closed and also lowers it by around 2-3 cm every time you open the door. It is like this on BMW E36, E46, E92 etc. Audi A4 convertible.

This happened to me with the mk5. I had to keep hammering the bottom catch at the seat base and spraying it with WD40 as it was seized up from when I didn't used the car for about 3-4 years. I eventually got it to work in the end.

Is it a CVT gearbox, If so, I thought they were gearless. Ford had call them CTX, still same concept of a continuously variable transmission. The engine revs loud and seems as though it is slipping but it isn't.

There was a place in Croydon where I bought mine from that supply and would also fit at your house if you wanted. Forgot the company name though. Nearly 10 years now