Vincygav

take the fuse, realy or fuel pump electrical connector off, the turn the car on. the car wud then cut out. the system should then be depressurised.

Not fo rthe faint hearted, if you are good with mechanics etc, then worth a try, plus leave a few days in play just in case it isnt done properly. Also if you dont have a garage make sure the weather is good.

Sounds like your electric aerial needs replacing.

MOst likely the elements in the screen is stopping it. New windscreen Im afraid if you want it to work. Bits of my screen on one side, the drivers side doesnt work, most likley caused by the stone chips in my windscreen.

It is not illegal to run the hood when driving as someone mentioned earlier in this post. Other manufacturers allow the roof to be taken done whilst driving, like Saab etc. although they have inhibitor switches set at 20 or 30mph. As for the location of the yellow relay, put your head on the floor and you would see it near the central locking control module. It is next to a green relay.

Check the plastic end cover on the pump hasnt got a crack, they are notorious for leaking.

Yes it has a earth for each side. The n/s one is in the scuttle panel are of the engine bay near the battey on the left inner wall.

Check the relay, or even the wire to the rear windows safety switch has not fallen off the connector. The circle button with red window logo on centre console near the handbrake.

Not sure where it is on mk4, check out a Haynes manual. I know the electric window relay is green. Take the door card off and see if any voltage is going to the motor with a voltmeter when you press the switch. Or another simple way to see if voltage is going to your electric window motor is, press the switch with the interior light on. Watch the interior light, if there is a slight dip in brightness everytime you press the switch, then you kno the electric window motor is ok - if it does not dip, then likely the electric window motor is not good.

LMFAO

Either unboltthem,leave the pully to be an idler, or modify it to use on an existing mk4 steering rack of you want power steering with it.

Looks nicer.I guess its a lot easier to take of the whole roof unit than to change the skins itself.

Luckily I have not come across this problem. I can only advise to check the battery tray area. Clean the sill drain holes out with the mud that clogs them up. remove the front plastic inner wheelarch liners then clean the mud that gets stored behind it at the bottom. Next other thing it to put some sealant at the top of the door frame rubbers.

LOL, I would have thought you would have checked the fan belt tension first thing, so assumed it wasnt that.

I think you need to get the wiring loom from the alternator going back through the starter motor repaired. Most likely the wiring inside it has broken down and this is causing a lack of current to go back and charge the battery. The blue wire does go back towards the dashboard loom and most likely it has a wiring breakdown in it. You could either cut and splice it to give back voltage so that the light would show on the dashboard.

The problem why the fan isnt coming on which you have solved is that the fan temperature switch has gone, they do go from time to time and seem to go when the engine is stood up for long periods like a few years, not sure if they get clogged in crap or something. The thermostat in the thermostat housing that the fan switch is onto is not controlled electronically. The thermostat works by opening and allowing water to pass through it when it reaches the preset temperature i.e. 86 degrees C, and then if the coolant temperature drops below this it would gradually close. I believe it is of bimetallica construction. The fan would cut in and off also at pre determined temperatures i.e. 82 degrees C. Other things I would advise if you have not done it, is get a new thermostat, should cost around £3-4, also full the cooling system, put new coolant in. PIP you can put a Ford Puma 1.7 thermostat and a Ford Escort Cosworth fan switch in your car if you want it to run cooler...assuming it is a 1800 zetec. The car would then run much cooler on the temperature guage and the fan would cut in more earlier.

It can not be adjusted in that sense. The problem what has happened with this is that the teeth on the regulator arm is worn at a certain point near the top. So when the gear on the motor reaches this point the teeth can not grip as it has no traction,so the window would just drop back down. My cabby was like this one I bought it from someone last year. I ended up buying a aftermarket electric motor and regulator on ebay. The regulator on these are adjustable unlike the Ford one, so you can push out the top end height on it.

Possibly the relay needs a certain voltage from the fan switch tomake it work. Its worth a try changing the relay or checking the wiring.

Its 2 litre zetec vs 2 litre I4 time. Does anyone know what is the most power achieved out of both - in naturally aspirated form?

The 2 litre zetec is NOT a straight forward swap. If it is from a Mondeo, then the pulleys has to be changed as they are in the wrong place. If your existing 1.8 is already 130bhp, then its a waste of time going for the 2 litre zetec as it just has the same horsepower rating, only more torque I believe. Many always doubt the RS2000, but I prefer it far more than the zetec, hence why I am going back down that route. You can see an easy 160-170bhp with just exhaust, air filter, and chip on the RS2000. Yes if you want more power than this, then you would have to do things like change the cam, different throttlebody and induction, but not that much people go down that road, even with the zetec anyway. If you did the 2 litre zetec, you would still have to spend a vast amount to see around 170bhp. One thing I also better that the RS2k had was a good torque figure. It really depends on how much money you want to spend. The best would be ST170, but there would be a hell of a lot of work to be done.

The easiest to do would be rs2000 conversion. Zetec turbo would be by far the most expensive to do. RS turbo would be as cheap as rs2000, but the rs2000 is a straightforward swap.

Check to see if the aerial is connected properly. Or connect a 12v live direct to the aerial itself to test it to see if the aerial hasnt failed.

My Mk5b didnt have deadlocking. As far as I know, it was only on the mk6

I thought they are 5 inch. As I can get 5.25 inch speak, just a tight fit.

When I asked the insurance company they told me anything that is CAT1 and must have a certificate.