jonnwhite Posted March 15, 2017 Share Posted March 15, 2017 Hey everyone, So as you may know weekend just gone i bought a Mk6 Ghia. I have 3 issues that are quite strange however the idle issue i know the Escorts suffer from. So Idle: When i put the clutch down to stop at a junction the revs will drop bellow 500rmp and then pick back up again and sit aroun 900-800? It's had this isue before when the previous owner had it but it stalled more often than not. It's had a new throttle body, MAF and airfilter i believe (Have a spare filter so will change anyways). Clutch: The peddle is very hard, when the peddle is in it's normal position i can move it up (Put food under peddle and lift) along way? It has had a new clutch, however the release bearing is making some wonderful noises so i wonder if it was that. Finally Brakes The peddle is very hard, almost like the server isnt working however i ave not had chance to check that, i believe it is. I keep feeling like im going to hit something as it feels like the peddle is pushing back. Any idea? Much appreciated! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest username Posted March 15, 2017 Share Posted March 15, 2017 (edited) Definitely had a new clutch? Or could the seller have just adjusted a load of slack into the cable to make it bite lower and seem new? (I say this based on the free play at the pedal you describe, and as the release bearing should be part of a clutch kit). Other option is perhaps a cheapo ebay kit that's dying early. Check the servo for the brakes, otherwise though Escorts aren't renowned for their braking performance so maybe it's just a case of getting used to it. If you can get it on some brake rollers that'd help rule out another cause of a stiff pedal, seized rear wheel cylinders/compensator valve. This was a problem on recomissioning our Mk5. All the new parts on the intake side, but nobody yet checked/replaced the IAV? Would be my first point of call, even though I think it's harder to access on the Zetec. Edited March 15, 2017 by username Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Springy2112 Posted March 15, 2017 Share Posted March 15, 2017 The revs drop can be a servo vacuum leak or faulty servo/vacuum 1 way valve or connector or pipe..the hard peddle points to servo also..you can probably fix 2 probs on one if you find the servo vacuum leak... As for the clutch release bearing ,noise is usually followed by a collapsing clutch...sorry .... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonnwhite Posted March 15, 2017 Author Share Posted March 15, 2017 Definitely had a new clutch? Or could the seller have just adjusted a load of slack into the cable to make it bite lower and seem new? (I say this based on the free play at the pedal you describe, and as the release bearing should be part of a clutch kit). Other option is perhaps a cheapo ebay kit that's dying early. Check the servo for the brakes, otherwise though Escorts aren't renowned for their braking performance so maybe it's just a case of getting used to it. If you can get it on some brake rollers that'd help rule out another cause of a stiff pedal, seized rear wheel cylinders/compensator valve. This was a problem on recomissioning our Mk5. All the new parts on the intake side, but nobody yet checked/replaced the IAV? Would be my first point of call, even though I think it's harder to access on the Zetec. I have a folder full of receipts etc so when im home i will look through and see if i can see something. we are thinking cheap ebay clutch. the bite isnt low and it isnt high i would say it was about normal. We are giving the car a good health check on Saturday, apparently the cylinders, shoes, pads and disks have been changed which i have seen the recipts for! but will confirm visiual condition Saturday. Whats the iav? We are unsure what it is as the car doesn't actually stall it just goes to then picks up. I'll see if i can get a video of what it does. The revs drop can be a servo vacuum leak or faulty servo/vacuum 1 way valve or connector or pipe..the hard peddle points to servo also..you can probably fix 2 probs on one if you find the servo vacuum leak... As for the clutch release bearing ,noise is usually followed by a collapsing clutch...sorry .... Thanks for the tip, we will be sure to check the servo! Is there a cheap but still reliable place to source parts? I dont mind paying that little extra if they arent cheap and nasty! Either of you any good with heated rear windows? Mines not wanting to work... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian71 Posted March 15, 2017 Share Posted March 15, 2017 You should not need a heated rear window living on the south coast jon lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest username Posted March 15, 2017 Share Posted March 15, 2017 IAV is idle air valve (or idle speed control valve), I think it's under the manifold on Zetecs so may have been missed and could give these symptoms if it's a bit gummed up. Also throttle position sensor could be worth a look if that's not been swapped with the throttle body. Good point brought up by springy though that the idle and brake issues may well be linked so definitely servo/pipework are first port of call. You know how to test the servo, with engine off pump the brake pedal a few times to make sure any vacuum is depleted & then start the engine with your foot on the brake and feel for the pedal dropping/getting softer as the vacuum builds. If the pedal stays the same there's a fault somewhere along the line, you can test the servo separately with a vac pump/gauge directly to the servo port and see if it holds a vacuum when the pedal isn't pressed (also use the pump to check the one way valve isn't leaking back) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Springy2112 Posted March 16, 2017 Share Posted March 16, 2017 Just to add...the rear window element /heater mine wasn't working I checked fuse and relay and both were fine then while I was checking the switch it decided to work intermittently then I did the old guitar switch trick of turning it on and off about twenty times which dislodged corrosion in the switch and it works fine everything now..so fuse check relay check switch check/agitate .... Parts are hit n miss I've found everything so far for my old mk3 apart from a servo but was lucky as the servo is OK... Hope you get some stuff sorted and on the bright side I have spent hundreds of hours getting mine in healthy condition so you should be in a better starting place (hopefully) cheers and good luck and don't hesitate to ask ,I have limited knowledge and many people here have lots of knowledge...all the best Springy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Springy2112 Posted March 16, 2017 Share Posted March 16, 2017 Sorry , regarding parts everything mechanical I have found on ebay (new parts) or through eurocarparts who stock lots of stuff ie brakes clutches batteries etc etc all the consumables even brake master cylinder ...luckily I've not needed any ford tied bits yet...oh and burton power have some great stuff too...and burton power are a wealth of knowledge not just for tuned up speed freaks but for standard kit too.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonnwhite Posted March 17, 2017 Author Share Posted March 17, 2017 IAV is idle air valve (or idle speed control valve), I think it's under the manifold on Zetecs so may have been missed and could give these symptoms if it's a bit gummed up. Also throttle position sensor could be worth a look if that's not been swapped with the throttle body. Good point brought up by springy though that the idle and brake issues may well be linked so definitely servo/pipework are first port of call. You know how to test the servo, with engine off pump the brake pedal a few times to make sure any vacuum is depleted & then start the engine with your foot on the brake and feel for the pedal dropping/getting softer as the vacuum builds. If the pedal stays the same there's a fault somewhere along the line, you can test the servo separately with a vac pump/gauge directly to the servo port and see if it holds a vacuum when the pedal isn't pressed (also use the pump to check the one way valve isn't leaking back) Im going to the breakers today as they have one! I'll see if I can see the on on there and nab it. I'll give that a check, I think position sensor was changed with the body. First I got we are checking is breaks so I'll give that a go. Sorry , regarding parts everything mechanical I have found on ebay (new parts) or through eurocarparts who stock lots of stuff ie brakes clutches batteries etc etc all the consumables even brake master cylinder ...luckily I've not needed any ford tied bits yet...oh and burton power have some great stuff too...and burton power are a wealth of knowledge not just for tuned up speed freaks but for standard kit too.... Parts seem sparse on eBay! Maybe I'm not looking for the right stuff. Have you found a good plCe for sills? I've found the, for about £20 each which I would say is reasonable Thanks again for all your help and I'll give you an update tomorrow when we know more Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Grainger Posted March 18, 2017 Share Posted March 18, 2017 (edited) Just a thought on the clutch..... if they have got the centre plate in the wrong way then it will still work but make the pedal really stiff at the bottom and cause the clutch to drag. This makes it difficult to get into gear. The idle problem approaching junctions sounds to me like a typical speed sensor fault. This is the one screwed onto the gearbox that the cable attaches too. Follow the wires up to the baulkhead and make sure the three pin plug is connected. The sensors fail causing a high idle speed and a lot of people seem to disconnect them instead of fitting a new one. Maybe they just forgot it or broke it when doing the clutch? Agree with the brakes. Mine are all new but still not great. Never were when they were new! Edited March 18, 2017 by Paul Grainger Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonnwhite Posted March 19, 2017 Author Share Posted March 19, 2017 So we had the car up in the air yesterday. Breaks are all good, just the fronts to check! So i guess it's just the Escort performance so now not worried about that. Will check the Servo when we check the breaks. Idle - the IAV looks to of been repalced as i have a spare one, but will check the speed sensor at the weekend. The clutch my dad doesn't seem to think there's anything wrong with it (Had one many years ago) So we will leave it and perhaps in a while change the bearing and the clutch. My partner who is a new driver will be driving it so might be worth checking the clutch in a couple of months! So instead of the car sitting off the road till the 22nd Apr, looking to get it on the road for the 1st as we estimate all the work to be done by then I can't wait to get this on the road, wanted one for a long time! Thanks for all your help and will post back once the exhaust is on Thanks Jon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonnwhite Posted March 19, 2017 Author Share Posted March 19, 2017 Just to add...the rear window element /heater mine wasn't working I checked fuse and relay and both were fine then while I was checking the switch it decided to work intermittently then I did the old guitar switch trick of turning it on and off about twenty times which dislodged corrosion in the switch and it works fine everything now..so fuse check relay check switch check/agitate .... Parts are hit n miss I've found everything so far for my old mk3 apart from a servo but was lucky as the servo is OK... Hope you get some stuff sorted and on the bright side I have spent hundreds of hours getting mine in healthy condition so you should be in a better starting place (hopefully) cheers and good luck and don't hesitate to ask ,I have limited knowledge and many people here have lots of knowledge...all the best Springy. Managed to check out as much as we could, power to the switch and also to the relay but no Hing to the screen. Calling my dads old friend out when it's on the road as there must be something chaffed through somewhere! That's the only electrical thing with the car, did take me a while to work out how to drop the fuse box down to get to the relays! Do now know how to take most of the dash out... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Springy2112 Posted March 19, 2017 Share Posted March 19, 2017 You could get a multimeter on the connector to the rear screen elect to see if power is getting that far. Assuming it's getting past the switch...and look for a break in the screen heater element itself ...on my mk3 the element is stuck on over the glass not sure if it's laminated in on later ones.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonnwhite Posted March 19, 2017 Author Share Posted March 19, 2017 You could get a multimeter on the connector to the rear screen elect to see if power is getting that far. Assuming it's getting past the switch...and look for a break in the screen heater element itself ...on my mk3 the element is stuck on over the glass not sure if it's laminated in on later ones.... Did try on the cables where they connect but was nothing. So we think there's a break, it's laminated but can still be repaired sogoing to get an electrician to check it out. If not I'll find a cheap window somewhere and stick that in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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