RobMk4TwinCarb

Try running the car until it cuts out, then take the coil off and stick it in a bucket of cold water (not completely submersed) to cool it down, whack it back on and see if it will start. Either shows the coil as the problem or rules it out. If it's an EFi ignore my whole post

If you can get your arm round to the nuts with a ratchet or spanner sure...just go and give it a crack.

Undo the 1 screw each side on the arches and there are 4 threads coming from the bumper sometimes they have 4 13mm nuts, mine only had 2 lol. That's it really for the front back is near enough the same just look for anything that might be holding them on and undo it. You know a haynes manual is probably only a fiver on ebay can make life easier sometimes, even though I have owned and stripped(sometimes put back together)5 mk3/4 cabs and a couple of tin tops it still comes in handy.

Only down the road from me, gutted missed it last year so might have to turn up.

Check your coil, if yours is a model with one, they can overheat and stop the car from starting until they are cool again.

A haynes manual will tell you and probably help alot in the long run. On mine it is on the left hand side (as you look at it from the front)of the inlet manifold, you can't miss it if it's there, has a plug and hose attached. They can also be attached to the air box I think again it would have a plug and hose attached havn't had one with it in that place so couldn't tell you exactly.

Done a great job on that you have

http://www.kettautopaints.co.uk/index.html Give them a call mate, they do deliver and like I say will mix up pretty much anything, what I have had from them before has been a really good match.

Isn't this something to do with the earth's for the motor's ? I would make sure they have good contact. Then try swapping one out to see if it's the motor/solonoid itself.

Find the number for Ketts, they usually have anything you can think of not sure if they deliver but worth asking they are in peterborough and wisbech.

I got a bonnet and im not so far from cambridge If I remember correctly the hole's where the vents go have small bracket type bits where the screws go on with some clips. Water gets in but it's not really a problem at least on a genuine bonnet anyway.

Depends on your tyre's and your suspension setup I guess, a good set of tyre's will stick in the wet or dry. If you already have good one's then maybe something at the rear is worn causing weight to shift and give you a slide. I had eagle f1's on a 205gti and I just couldn't lose it no matter how hard I tried, on my crx were budget tyre's and that was like being on an ice rink in the wet.

The cam sprocket has a bit that projects which lines up to a mark on the head and obviously the crank pulley has a mark, so you would have to be pretty absent minded to not line up both and just go by the crank.

I always tend to think it's something worse than it is ! What happens when your car breaks as much as mine lol.

Yea I did read it.. it might of been something in one of the cylinder's gone when it conked out on you was why I mentioned it. Also you said it smelt rich so checking the mixture would be something to try. Another obvious thing but have you made sure the timing is still good ? Could of slipped when you broke down before. Big thanks for the code reader diag's sure it will help :icon_salut_gb:

It says in the Haynes manual to run it at 11 or 1200 for something like 3 mins then at 1500 I think for another 3 mins, then 15 mins of "town" driving and it should sort itself out, if that's a reason why. I'll check in a bit to see what it exactly is, that was just from memory. I have re-connected the battery on mine done the "proper" procedure and it hasn't made a difference from when iv'e just hooked it up and drove. Make of that what you will.

Wasn't aiming that at you mate, this isn't your thread. To answer your question anyway you take off a HT lead 1 at a time then put it back on and do the next(while its running), if you take 1 off and the engine doesn't get worse and/or conk out that cylinder is doing nothing.

I know it's obvious but have you made sure it's running on all 4 ? Also making sure the mixture is correct might help.

Have you checked all the plugs ?(had another one run a bit like this after a plug broke) Did you check that the timing was OK ? Have you done a compression test just to see if that's all OK ? As far as stripping the head down goes unless you know the timing has been out, or you have heard contact between the valve's and piston's I wouldn't bother. Unless you don't mind doing it all for nothing other than a de-coke.

Take your timing belt upper cover off, get a 19mm spanner on the crank bolt and turn it to TDC (a notch on the pulley should line up with the largest notch on the lower cover) then see if the the pointy bit lines up with the mark on the head(if it's facing down turn the crank round again). If it's right the mark on the pulley will be at TDC as will the mark on the cam sprocket. The EFI has no ignition timing you can adjust really, all done by the ECU and sensors, you can adjust the mixture but you would need an emissions probe sensor thingy to get it right. Mine ran like your describing after the timing slipped out and bent the valve's(not saying that's your problem!). Sorry if you knew all this already! Rob

To be honest mate I still need it really, I can't get the timing spot on and it has developed a rattle near the gearbox end can't get the stupid thing to idle etc etc. If it's still for sale ?

cheers guys. I wish the rims looked like that all the time lol. It was £700 t+t'd with the clutch on it's last legs £40 and getting very dirty, cut to bits and proper stressed at points sorted that, barely got a spot of rust on it few chips here and there needs a full respray to make it nice really but that's not happening any time soon!!

Some descent pics of it now... Tried making them all funky but only the one looked any good like it. Comments welcome

Looks a clean cab, can I just ask though is your steering wheel upsidedown ? Good luck with the engine swap.

It should be ok now cheers lads still got to play with the timing and hopefully try and fix the ISCV and hope that the noise I can hear is the manifold blowing not pinking ! But yea it's getting there lol