RobMk4TwinCarb

If your still having trouble with the colour find and ring Kett's Autopaints they will mix it up and deliver it(I think deliver).

Sierra cossie 2wd calipers 4 pots and discs would be what your after I think. If you find one take the rears aswell as they go on pretty easily.

Use a search engine and put in what your looking for I know there is at least one site that tells you but im too lazy to go find it

Engine... *drool*

Havn't got a clue mate I just delivered a parcel there once sometime last summer and my memory is shot at the best of times if it helps it was mostly single track roads for a few miles around it...doubt it does help though.

I don't know if the loom you have in yours is the same as the efi as I know nothing about mk5's really but if it is you will need a map sensor an ofab or ofac ecu both work but need different mods to the loom for each one, you also would need the efi inlet manifold fuel rail injectors etc and your new engine must have a crank position sensor in it if not that can be fitted but you would need to change the flywheel aswell. A breakers would know what you mean with the ecu's and there is alot of info about rst conversions etc dotted all about the net some of which can be really enlightening and go into detail about making the different ecu's work aswell as other bits. If I knew more about the mk5's I could of been more helpful...

It is exactly as the other guys have told you, the temp sender for your guages. It goes on a thread type thing on the front right of the head.

If your happy doing it yourself you may aswell get the whole lot and change it all. I used a heavy duty rst clutch in my standard 1.6i and has been ok (other than the thrust bearing that came with the kit being wank). Mine had alot of the symptoms you describe when I first got it I done the clutch, pressure plate and bearing and is much better now.

It doesn't have a cut off switch I don't think but the pink relay under the dash can go and as I remember that is for the fuel so try changing that.

I did just the lifter's last year and although it made it a bit quieter im sure doing the cam aswell would of made it better.

Is it not the overflow for the gearbox oil rather than a breather? and yes that plug goes on the front of the gearbox where 2 prongs are.

A short in the starter circuit could be your problem ragarse, get another starter on it and see if it does the same. If it still does the same then check all the wiring.

I imagine you'd need the whole MFI engine loom I don't know if it matters if it's from an rst or not, both ecu's from an erst and as lee said all the metering unit with all the fuel pipes that come with it lol + a whole load of other bits really(manifold, downpipe, coil, dizzy etc etc). You might be better off finding one with a shagged engine and rotten body and then you should have all you need.

Yea 2 do go on the starter terminal.

The starter will be a live straight from the battery(one big thick wire) and another live which is I think 3 wire's together. Hope this helps.

I got my vax out on mine, done a good job mostly(was still in the car with seats out). Still tempted to swap it out for a better one though.

There is a guy in wisbech called christopher diggle, he can have you car looking like it just rolled out of the factory don't know if he is still doing it though. Also he asked around 2 grand to re-spray my little crx, if I had the money to throw about id of used it. Don't use gladwins, I wouldn't as most independant guys will more than likely be much cheaper and put more effort into pleasing customers than a chain. There are plenty about, one out in the middle of no-where down some lincolnshire drain roads somewhere can't remember exactly but he had some work he was doing out when I delivered there and was very good. Just go round some and look at their work then get quotes. One of my wife's friends brother got his corrado done for 600 but have no idea where or how good it is..but round here somewhere.

I take it the first 2 numbers are the year ? Anyway thanks ill have a look tomorrow maybe and get back to you.

Is there a way to determine which clocks are which on the clocks as I have some old one's laying about was going to sell and don't want to sell to the wrong type if you get my meaning.

You will need the escort rs turbo bits, aswell as the metering unit, airbox the fuel pipes(well all the mfi bits) etc if you didn't know.

The efi head has bits sort of cut out around the inlet ports for the injectors and an efi will have a coilpack as opposed to a distributor, an efi also has a crank position sensor in the front of the block on the right. More than likely a custom manifold if it was out of a kit car did you not get some management with it ? hopefully have helped

The bits with the rollers on go up and as I remember there are 3 bolts that go in near the motor, try and match those up and go from there. Oh yea and the motor is on the inside.

Id guess earth too, had a foglight that used to like turning on when it liked that was the earth.

Working outside is a pain, just be glad your not doing it on gravel unless you are in which case I feel for you.

I have done my clutch with everything in the car last spring and then again to change the thrust bearing about 2 months later (crappy ebay part). I undone the rollbar and both bottom arms, supported the engine and undone the gearbox cradle, dropped the gearbox and cracked on. Well it wasnt quite that easy stupid abs modulators can be a pain in the arse. It's a bit tight getting it back on but there is room.