Nick Barnes

Yep that's been told to me already, DIY fit then straight to the track adjusters I think the place where I can rent a ramp for 13 Euro an hour also does this there so all will be good. Still waiting for the parts grr Found some Febi Bilstein ones with fitting kit for 27,59 Euros each ( Micksgarage . com ) there normally over 60,00 Euros Each but there out of stock haha

Thanks that will save a bit of time and hassle I will have a look at it

OK cheers I will have a look at it Silly Question? Can I get to it without taking off the steering wheel ? just the covers top and bottom ?

Yep had it checked waiting for parts to be in stock so I can order them and put the on myself. Any Tips ? I will put some WD40 on the bolts before I do it, but it just looks like 3 Bolts to undo / do up and then torque them it when its on the ground sounds EASY lol

YEP thanks for the info but I'd found that also, but my roof works fine so haven't tried it yet

Haha I saw that knob on mine, when I first got it and thought it was a release switch for the roof when you have to manually put it down if the electrics fail ? ( mines got the electric hood ) I PULLED IT !!! SEVERAL TIMES , couldn't see what it did, then read the owners manual and found out what it really was for

Hi All, Next little problem to show up, my Cab MK VII has an adjustable steering wheel, but it only goes in or out when you pull the handle down, should it also go up and down ? Sometimes it " moves a little " as if its not secured properly when you pull or push on it ? ( not all the time ) even though the handle is pushed back up properly all the time. Is there any way something could be loose in the locking mechanism? I cant see a diagram of it in the Haynes manual, so not sure how its fixed to the steering Colum or what it contains ? Just thought I'd ask before trying to investigate further

Well good news at last lets hope it continues, and you sort it finally, just off to see my stockbroker to buy some more shares in brake fluid companies, don't know why but the prices have soared lately

Thre only thing I have to base my judgement on what engine it is is, whats stamped on the rocker cover ( Zetec 16v ) and the pictures of the various engine bays in the Haynes Service and Repair manual ? mine is exactly the same as the 1.6 litre Zetec - E SEFi fuel injection engine, except the battery is on the left side ( looking from the front ) but my car is left hand drive

It does pull the knob and the lock on the back of the bottom half of the rear seat should disengage ( you should be able to see it move ) allowing you to push the bottom half of the rear seat down from the boot ( towards the drivers seat as stated )

maybe time to Flush the system completely ? any idea when this was last done ? This will clear any crap out and when you refill it, it should get rid of any air locks

hi User nope its not mine mine is red, just checked under the bonnet and found on the air intake cover it has factory sticker on it, that says 1.6 E 66kW 90 PS ?( PS = BHP ? ) Haha that's across between all 3 of the above . It's definitely a Zetec 1.6 16 valve stamped on the engine So I presume its also 90 PS ( unless that airbox cover been changed at some point lol. ) So If asked I will order parts for the 90 PS ( HP ) version Your explanation sounds good though all the Ghia / XR3i models I think as you say were 1.8 litre for the later years so not sure if the " extras " on my car leather etc were just ordered by the original buyer when they ordered it ?

I had no replies to this but my main question is ? Does 2 PK ( HP) matter ? If I type in my Reg. No. into a Dutch parts website, depending on which site I use ? it gives me 3 different engine specs ? 1: Ford Escort Cabriolet ( ALL) 1.6 16V XR3i 66 kW 88 Pk 1995 - 2000 2: Ford Escort Cabriolet ( ALL) 1.6 16V XR3i 68 kW 90 Pk 1995 - 2000 3: Ford Escort Cabriolet ( ALL) 1.6 16V Pacific Kat. 66 kW Is there a difference ? are there 3 different engines ? what parts are different ? Looking at the Haynes Manual I have got the 1.6 litre Zetec - E SEFi fuel injected engine The car has an Escort & 16V badge on the rear but no XR3i ?

Hi silly question but where is the lights on buzzer located ? the buzzer that sounds when you open the door and your exterior lights are on ? mine works sometimes, sometimes not ? sometimes it starts buzzing then stops ? what's the problem do you think ? the buzzer or the connection to the door switch ? the interior light works when you open the door, so the door switch is working properly ? so I'm thinking connection to the buzzer from the door switch maybe ? or where it connects to the lights ( so it knows if they are on or off ) ? Any one had this and what was the solution ? Cheers Nick

Yes busy but as you say nothing major so far, the wishbones will be the most expensive next and there only around 70.00 Euro for both sides then I will go to the local DIY Garage and hire their car lift for an hour @ 13.00 Euro an hour to fit them myself, then get it tracked up and the wheels balanced. got to work out why my radio cuts out sometimes but then comes back on without me having to reset the code ? must be a loose connection somewhere I think. I will get the radio out and check soon. Do I need the special radio keys to get it out or is there something else I can use, its an original Ford 6000 CD RDS type ?

Pity that there no longer available to view some I think would of been interesting

I bought a 1.6i Cabriolet as a second car and also for a project one month ago it is a 2000 model Mk VII with 167,000 Kms on the clock ( just over 100,000 Miles ) there were / are, a few things I noticed needed doing to her when I tested her, and looking around at prices for these cars I managed to get her for 950,00 Euros ( it was for up for sale for 1295,00 Euros ) This is what has been done so far and what still needs fixing: Oil / Air Filter, Spark Plugs, Oil Obtained a Haynes workshop manual, now maybe I can sort things out Idle control Valve replaced: would not idle sometimes properly, now a lot better. Temperature Sensor / Sender: there was no signal coming to the dashboard, now working. Battery cover: it did not have one, just picked it up with a job lot of sensors from the breakers. interior light Relay: thought mine was broken ? Interior light: thought mine was faulty ? turned out to be a broken earth wire. Fog light relay: mine was missing ? turned out to be a broken wire also. 2 x Bulbs for the interior Clock Expandable 18mm Wheel Brace: my alloys are not standard so the wheel brace in the car would not fit ?? & Car Jack and fastening bolts to fix it into the boot well: Mine did not have any of these ? how do some people think they are going to change a wheel without the right equipment if you get a puncture ? Rear wheel Bearings: mine were knackered. Lubricated the front seat belts: a bit better on retraction but still not perfect ? Back seat release cable lubricated: mine was stuck. 2 Air box screws: they were missing ? Key fob Battery: mine was worn out. Still to do: Wishbones: waiting for stock to come back in. Front bumper: mines split and broken and been bodged up. Rear bumper: mines split on one corner. Handbrake adjust: too much travel but works. The plastic bin / storage area on the drivers door: mines split. Bodywork: a few scratches and small dents but overall not too bad. So a nice project to do and Hopefully get her back to good again maybe in the future tune her up / new exhaust etc ( low cost but decent results ) Just on a side note ? how / where do you guys store your wind deflector when its summer ( its in the garage for now ) and in the car, but not on it ? its just too long to put in the boot straight and it has to go at an angle to get it in ? ( Sorry ADHD LOL) I put the Tourneau cover in a bag and strapped that to the boot ceiling with bungee cords to get it out of the way Thanks again for all the comments and advice so far Cheers Nick

Mine is the electric roof but the same. Mk V11 On that plastic trim piece at the rear of the car, that sits on the top edge of the door card, next to the top of the seat back, there are 3 screws to undo, 1: the one in the middle of that groove with the block oblong attached, 2: there is one inside that groove but going in to the rear top seat you cant really see it unless you look into that groove 3: the one in the press stud that the torneau cover fits to, on the top of that plastic piece. Only 2 clips by my window and 2 press plugs at the bottom of the door card behind the lower seat back ( you have to lower the seat to get to them ) and the 2 screws going into the B pillar from the door opening, except for that its just a case of taking off the seat belt ( there is 1 screw behind it holding the card on ) and disconnecting the electric window switch ( push out from behind once the door card is loose enough to get your hand behind ) and the earths for the electric heated window pushed onto two points at the rear of the card. just undo 2 screws from the door scuff plate nearest the card so the card is loose on that corner. its more fiddly than hard

Mine is not locked ? its just very slow to retract ? especially the last foot ? Seems like it could do with more tension on the spring ? this is on both sides of the car so you end up threading it back in the last bit, so it doesn't hang loose. It works when I pull it hard, like a sudden jolt would do in an accident so not an MOT failure just annoying. Not sure if you can even re-tension it ? and to take it all apart again haha I'll wait for warmer weather. But has anyone else got this bar ? I've looked on the internet pics and you tube and in the Haynes Manual and cant see another one with it attached ? they all just have one Torx bolt and then it comes out ? Wish I'd taken a picture of it now Grrr its a brass coloured metal strip about 4" long , 1/4 " wide that goes across the whole width of the unit and then fixed at 1 fitting point on the B pillar on the front face towards the front ( so to the right of the unit on the nearside ? left on the off side ) ? ( I think its riveted to the actual unit ? ) I was looking more at the B pillar fitting, maybe it comes off the unit and swings up or down to let you remove the unit itself I did not spend too much time looking at it I wanted to get the car back together as it was cold haha

I took off the top securing Torx bolt, disconnected the bottom arm. stripped out the quarter panel to get access to the rest of the belt, undid the belt guide held in place by two Philips screws half way down the B pillar, and the Torx bolt under the unit, then could not get the actual inertia reel out of its location because there is a " metal strap" holding it in place ? Fixed from the inertia reel to one side of the B pillar ? and I couldn't work out how that came off ? tried torx ? allen keys ? screw drivers nothing seemed to fit into it ? so I left it in place and just sprayed the unit with WD40. There is no mention of this metal strap in the Haynes manual ? but its definitely factory fitted to keep the inertia reel in place, as well as the Torx bolt under the unit. They only mention the Torx nothing about this metal strap

Update sprayed the seat belts with WD40 but still the same maybe a bit better ? but we will see after a few days use ? On a good note traced the wires back from the interior light and found that the Earth connector block behind the B pillar in the Drivers passenger side foot well, had totally corroded inside, so just cut the connector out, stripped back the wires until I got to good wire and reconnected the wire, and now its working another job ticked.

Found a Tutorial on roof removal posted back in 2009 on here it was a great help managed to get my rear bottom seat out and the rear door cards, without too many swearing, Found the hidden screw that you cant get to without a small Philips in the plastic piece at the end of the rear seat I used a 90 degree bent one that I had but I think that also a small socket would fit in the small gap If you have one ? but the pieces are now indoors drying after a clean up, Tomorrow I will check and lube the seat belt hopefully to make them retract better ? and then try to remember what went where to reassemble it. While its apart I will also try and trace the wires from the interior light to see if I can find a break ? if not, maybe I can rewire it from where I am getting power up to ?

Damm I could do with this info too as I need to check, clean, lube, my seatbelts cos they dot retract quick enough and you have to feed the last bit back looked and also found a few screws as mentioned above ? does the rear panel split by the speaker or does it all come out in one piece including the top piece by the rear window. I also need to trace the interior light wiring as the light does not work ( checked the bulb / fuse / relay ) and that goes down the drivers B pillar on mine ( left hand drive )

Hi Springy, I have been following your dilemma on here and on YOU TUBE ( NICE VIDS ) I cannot help you solve this problem sorry but you seem very knowledgeable with cars unlike me, so if you get stuck it must be even more frustrating than it happening to a muppet like me ? I cant tell a crosshead from a flat head but hopefully I will also pick up some info on here so far so good had a few good guys help me out with a few issues already. All I can do is wish you luck and maybe someone else on here can give you more advice ?

Update bought a new fog light relay changed that but still no Rear Fog light traced the wires back from the bulb found a break where it goes into the car body after coming out from the boot in that corrugated piece or rubber. The Highlight brake lights work as well now haha I thought it was just a reflector ??? So another job can be ticked off. Still cant sort out the interior light yet !!!