Nick Barnes

Hi all, Just a question has anyone got a Wind Deflector off of a MK6 / MK7 that is damaged or they don't need ? I'm looking for the 4 double press studs that fix onto the rear seats and then the toeneau cover fits on to them when the roofs down. I have both covers but some of the press studs don't fit properly anymore on the wind deflector I live in Holland but postage will not be a problem as they are only light and can be sent a letter post rate Cheers All

Thanks for the comments in the end I took out the red trim and bought some 18mm Black plastic tape, covered it and reinstalled it, all is good now

Hmm Im confused there is a sender unit on the thermostat housing ( as you describe ) normally with a black or grey top, ?? ( replaced mine with a grey top as the old one had a grey top ) Does this send the coolant temperature information to the gauge in the car dash ? Or is it the sensor unit that is located on the front of the engine block near the bottom ? ( mine is a left hand drive and sits on the bottom half of the block, on the right hand side of the exhaust manifold looking from the front ) So I think I have the wrong sensor somewhere I've ordered a new front engine block sensor, Which I was told by Ford is OEM No. 6196668 and that sends the coolant temperature information to the car gauge not the sensor on the thermostat housing ? WHICH sensor ( sender ) does what ? Does one do the gauge and one go to the ECU ? why are there 2 sensors that people are telling me to do the same job ? If you read my post regarding this, my car is now always showing the temperature almost in the red on the car gauge ( since doing a system drain due to a head gasket replacement) although she does not seem to overheat or loose coolant ? There is also another thermostatic sensor for operating the electrical fan ( that seems to work correctly ) near the top of the radiator in the top hose, I have also replaced this just in case this was faulty, but again have been told there are different types ? mine had a red top but not sure if this is also correct it may have been replaced in the past incorrectly ? CONFUSED.COM

Ford Escort Cabriolet 1.6 16 Valve 1997, I had a new clutch plate and thrust bearing replaced at a garage a few months ago due to the clutch starting slipping, since the repair, the car when its in slow moving traffic and you're releasing the clutch it "grabs" and is not smooth unless you increase the revs to more than normal ? also sometimes when you try to put the car in reverse while standing still ii does not always select reverse and you have to depress the clutch pedal again and reselect reverse to get it to engage ? Was it an installation problem or what could be the cause ? someone said it could have oil or grease on the clutch plate ? should the garage take it apart again and re-install it or could it be another problem. I tried adjusting the clutch pedal height but this did not change anything Your thoughts please

Haha getting confused.com I looked on google and the ones that looked like mine said Mk 4 ? so I was right the first time it's a Mk 5 or 6 ? the one in the picture is the one I need the insert for Black instead of Red Checked Ebay but could not see any listed Thanks for your message

Hi Ian the rear bumper is off another car ( my car is a MK VII ) all I know is it will be a Mk 4 so pre 1995 ? See pic below https://1drv.ms/u/s!AvEDmCzeU9eez0fJnBe2mZXrc2BZ

Sorry my mistake its a MK 4 Bumper insert

Hi Guys I am looking for the BLACK trim piece that goes into the rear bumper of a Mk 5 Escort ? Has any one got one or anyone know who sells them ? I'm in Holland but shipping would not be an issue Nick

Thanks Paul The trouble with replacing like for like is that maybe someone in the past put the wrong one in ? I managed to find the OEM No. so now I can get the correct part.

Hi I have a 1997 1.6 16 valve Cab. My coolant / water gauge in the car used to work intermittently sometimes ? but never went up high, ( above the N in NORMAL ) Recently I changed the coolant and sensor at the bottom / front of the engine ( near the exhaust manifold ) Now the temperature gauge works fine all the time, BUT it shows the temperature as almost in the RED ? ( on the A in the word NORMAL ) There does not seem to be any overheating issues and she does not lose coolant. It is worrying to see the gauge this high. Is this normal ? Should I worry ? Have I got the wrong sender ? Are there different types giving different results on the gauge ? Has anyone got the OEM No. for this part that controls the in car coolant GAUGE ? There are lots of coolant sensors for my car listed some with grey tops some with black tops I think these are the ones that go in the thermostat housing though ? Not the engine block at the front or have I got it wrong ?

I dont know how its connected to what I did and why she ran so bad after I did the Head gasket work ? but I changed the Mass Air Flow Unit, as an after thought and just in case, after changing all the above sensors ect. and Hey Presto shes runnning the best she has

My Cab recently was blowing white smoke and was told it needed a new Head Gasket, The compression was measured and they read ( Nos. 1 - 4 cylinders ) 4, 11, 8, 11 pressure. after taking off the head it was checked but I was told it did not need skimming so put it all back. While doing this I replaced the Idle control valve, and all the temperature / water sensors ( 3 ). when I took it apart there was no Inlet / Outlet Gaskets on the car. The Inlet gasket I ordered turned out to be the wrong one so I have not re-installed this yet. Now the car was running rough and hissing from the Exhaust valve hose at the rear of the inlet manifold, so this valve was replaced along with the hose, this made it run / idle better and lose the hissing from the hose. While changing the Head Gasket I also noticed that my Head had " Triangular holes " for the water / air but the new Gasket only had round holes punched out and no mention on the fitting instructions about cutting them out to make them triangular ? but it had the triangles printed on the Gasket itself ? But now almost straight after starting the temp is showing high on the " A " of NORMAL ( I think I've been given the wrong sensor again after the first one had the wrong size thread ) Although she runs ( idle is still rough sometimes but never was perfect so shes improved ) while driving @ 2,500 RPM ( 100 Kmph ) she loses power intermittently and will not pull / accelerate for a while then she comes back to life and runs and pulls normally again ? like something is blocked then clears itself ?? Is it a fuel problem or air or electrical ?? HELP where do I look

Hi Haha just replaced my temperature sender gauge ( not a Ford part ) and it now sits on the " A " of "NORMAL" right at the top almost of the scale ? this was after doing a head gasket change. hmmm its worrying me, but it doesn't boil over ? I think I was given the wrong one again ? the the first one I got given was the wrong thread size.

Hi Paul Thanks for the reply I will double check but yes we used the second mark. Glad I only have to take off the rocker cover, top camshaft cover and lower cover to check saves a lot of time

Thanks for the reply, so if it was bad before then maybe its now 2 teeth out ? we marked everything up on the belts and pulleys and we were sure it was good when refitting the belt, This was my main worry as I'd never done it before. How can i adjust it without taking everything apart again ? and how can I reset it so its good ( it took me and my friend 5 hours including the water pump change ) We didn't use the " special tools " that you locate in the engine block to lock the lower crank, as we were told we did not need it but we did use a piece of metal to hold the Camshafts in place when we took off the old belt. Can it be done just taking the rocker cover / Top Cam pulley cover off or is it a complete strip down again to get to the tensioner pulley to release the tension to adjust it ? How do we tell which cam is out ? and which way it should be turned and by how many teeth ? When the lower mark was on crank pulley was lined up with the mark on the engine block the notches in the ends of the Cams were in a straight line straight and when refitted it as far as I know nothing had moved in between taking the old belt off and refitting the new one ? I hope there is a quick fix ?

Also I have done the Nml servicing things to try and sort this, Spark Plugs, Oil Change, Oil / Air Filter, HT leads. My friend also has a 2002 Ford Focus and he has the same problem ( maybe worse than mine ) and has done the same cleaning etc. but his also is the same bad / hunting when idling ? Is this a Ford problem ?

I have a 1997 1.6 EFI Cabriolet with 177,000 Kms, I am doing lots of things to sort her out ( just done the timing belt / water pump and auxiliary belt change ) I have always had a problem with the idle / tick over speed its never been 100% ? It runs OK and seems to have enough power on Nml driving. But now it seems worse again since i did the above jobs ? Its almost sometimes dying when Idling, @ 900 RPM and has a rythmic surging up and down sound ( as if its not getting enough air or petrol ? ) Last night I added Wynns Exteme Petrol Addittive into 25 Ltrs ( 10 Ltrs left in the tank ) of 98 Octane leaded petrol ( normally runs on 95 Octane was told to try 98 ? ) to try and cure / clean it, and ran it for 70 Km on the motorway around 140 Kmph but this morning again it seems worse than before and stalled today which is unusual while pulling away on cold start up Because of the additive / petrol would this cause a worse problem ? ( too rich mixture now ) I have in the past replaced the Idle Control Valve ( easy to get out only 2 bolts, but had a real struggle getting this back in due to lack of access for spanners, sockets, fat fingers ETC. grr ) Throttle Positioning Sensor ( both bought second hand ) My next step is to clean the Mass Air Sensor Wires and see if that is the cause, I have cleaned the actual Air Mass Sensor body inside with Carburetor Cleaner ( I did the same with the throttle body ) but whats the best thing to use on the wires inside the sensor if I take it apart ? I cant find any leaks in the vacuum pipes but I can hear a small hissing from the rear of the engine at the top near the throttle body but cant feel any obvious air leeks around that area ? even had a mechanic with a stethoscope trying to find it for 5 mins, but he had no luck any ideas where it could be from any typical problem areas ? Any ideas / thoughts would be good but my budget is tight so cant buy all 3 things new to try and sort this out

ok thanks

So I can fit these on my Escort if I change the Tyres to 205/40/17's with no other modification ? not sure what the rim size is ( up to 7.5j ) But I know they have good tyres on them maybe I sell the tyres seperately ? I 'll have to check Thanks for the info.

Hi Gingerman thanks I will look for some that are within the limits someone was selling some but said they were ET 20 ? so thats no good then haha the car they were on was a citroen C4 picasso 2.0 but they were advertisaed as 4x108 with 215/50R17 tyres

Hi I have a 1997 1.6 Cabriolet with stock suspension and am looking at buying some secondhand 17" alloys, what is the lowest ET that I can fit ? I think they normaly recomend 35 -40 ? but whats the lowest that can go on it ? and what else would I have to change without doing body work to the arches ?

OK I give up haha tried every connection in every hole nothing is happenning ? maybe the unit is no good after all I ened up with the wires going to these pins on the rear of my radio 1 = CPC + 2 := ? 3 = ? 4 = ? 5 = F R +speaker 6 = F L +speaker 7 = CPC - 8 = Power 9 = ? 10 = ? 11 = R R -speaker 12 = R L - speaker Wherever I put the Negative nothing worked I have power to the pins so I know the connector is receiving power

Hi I thought I'd put some more pics up to show what I'm trying to do. I have as I said sorted 4 wires for the speakers That leaves 4 wires and 8 pins from the CD Changer to go to my Escort conector block on the rear of the stereo The block on my car ( as you can see lists the pins that are left as 1: ACP + 2: GND ACP 3: GND 4: NOT LISTED 7: ACP - 8: ACP CD 9: NOT LISTED 10: GND AUD I traced the 4 wires back from a connector block for the Mondeo and this is where the wires I have left went to on that block A9 : CAN + A11: KEYCODE GND A10: CAN - A15: BATT + Nohing like what I've got on my block connector ? I tried checking what ACP, + / - is on my connector only found ADJACENT CHANNEL POWER ? On the Mondeo block connector , CAN + / - and KEYCODE GND no idea ???????????? Below are the pics of both connectors you can see the referances on there as they are listed Does this help anyone any more to give me an answer ? Thanks in advance Nick

Thanks for the input I will check out my local dealer I'm in Holland so maybe they have some meanwhile I would love to sort this its only 4 wires haha

Ok update I know where 4 wires ( Blue,Grey, Green & Mauve ) theses go for the speakers on the last 4 pins on the right of the block but the other 4 no idea