Nick Barnes

Hi Springy, Thanks for the input, just got the cab back from the garage 2 new wheel bearings @ 42.26 each ( I did ask if they where made of gold and diamonds haha they weren't even Ford ones ) and 70 Euros labour GRRRRRRRR should of just got new bearings myself and saved 150.00 Euro but at least I know its safe now. He also said probably the handbrake cable needs renewing now just need to look up you tube to see how easy that is. LOve your vids on you tube BTW good luck with your brakes

Why can I not see the pics posted on here in the forums ? I get a picture of a cat and it says click ? but no image is shown

Hi Stu I'm not happy lol I have the SADIM touch, everything I touch turns to rubbish instead of the Midas touch ? while it was jacked up I thought I'd change the front fog lamp bulb EASY JOB EVEN FOR ME I couldn't even get the plastic cover off from the underneath of the car that lets you get access to the foglight all the screws were seized up haha. I just wasn't sure if I had to pull out the adjuster cam or push in ? it didn't seem to make the shoes move in or out when I pushed the cam right in ( not that I noticed )? And the manual does not say either whether its in or out to adjust shoes in or out ? It certainly did not do anything to the handbrake cable, so I still could not adjust it ( the job I was trying to do in the first place ) ? on the second inspection I am sure the adjusters had moved back out to where they where before ? and after a test drive, and taking it apart again to recheck and finding the broken wheel bearing when it fell out in bits, I was totally peed off any way I put it back together ( checked I had solid brakes and handbrake ) drove it to the local garage 200m with the ABS light on and a rumbling bearing to get them to look at it. It will now cost me 3 times the price in spare parts as I could get them for GRRRRRRRRRR and 60 Euro an hour labour GRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR, So much for saving money and learning

When I do a number plate check here in Holland it lists it as a Ford Cabriolet 1.6i 66KW / 89 PK it also says Variant L1H1 ? When I check this on google " Ford variant L1H1 " it shows up as a transit van ?

I have an Escort 1.6i Cabriolet first registered 12/07/2000 in Holland silly question where do I find out what it is ? some checks when going to some spares sites where you put in the registration No. say Escort XR3i ? some say Escort Pacific ? even seen GLX ? and Flair ? Its obviously a European car built in 2000 I presume ? it has Leather interior / A/C / ABS / Front Fog Lights / Heated Front Screen , Rear Screen and mirrors, Suspension brace in the engine compartment, What else can I say Registration No is 38 - FV - HH maybe this does not help as its not registered in the UK. ? I can get the VIN No. and engine No. if needed but is there a register that tells me exactly what it is ? It has a Zetec 16v engine Fuel injected engine but is it a CFi ? EFi ? or SEFi ? Where do I find out what model and Engine I have ?

Thanks for the ideas Paul I will look at these things Keep you posted when I've checked them

Found another problem when I rechecked it, 1 of the rear wheel bearings was broken , when I took the hub off it fell out in pieces, ( didn't fall out the first time ) could this be why the ABS came on ? could it sense the movement in the wheel ? new bearing on its way, still need to find out why I cant adjust the handbrake ? it looks like the adjusters moved from where I pushed them to, so that seems to be working ? new handbrake cable now I'm thinking ?

HELP !!! I loosened the handbrake adjusting nut under the gator on the handbrake lever in the car, I had the brake drums off sprayed everything with brake cleaner, looked at the adjuster I could only adjust it one way ? by pushing the cam end with a screwdriver I pushed it all the way in towards the centre of the car on both sides ? no idea if this is correct ? or if it should of been moved the other way towards the outside of the car ? Put it back together and I still had no more adjustment on the handbrake cable under the gator in the car it did not help its still right to the top ? and after checking the brakes still work, I did an emergency stop to check the ABS was working and now the ABS light has come on ? and I get a vibration through the pedal now ? It was not doing that before and the ABS light has never come on before what have I done wrong ?

Hi Stu Very good info I will try and look at them this week thanks again I will let you know how I get on

The Haynes manual just says " check the automatic brake adjuster is fully retracted " is this done after the shoes have been adjusted out closer to the drum ? or do you retract the adjuster when the shoes are pushed right in towards the centre ? It does not say ? I am thinking the first option sounds more logical

Hi Stu Thanks for the info to adjust the shoes is it just a matter of turning a screw ? or turning a wheel mechanism ? or a cam with ratchet teeth ? to make them go in or out or what should I find in there ? I read about releasing the handbrake cable fully first, then adjusting the drums, then adjust the handbrake after that, correct ? As you can tell I'm no mechanic but trying to learn tried looking at YouTube but there are lots of different types of set ups so would just like to know which one I have got

I have a 2000 1.6i and I went to adjust the handbrake because its right at the top. Took off the handbrake gator in the car and found it was fully adjusted to the bottom of the thread so that's a no go Grrrr. The car has Drum brakes on the rear, Before I take off the rear wheels / drums I would l like to know what to expect ? I'm thinking maybe the self adjuster needs resetting ? on some cars the is a hole in the brake drum with a wheel behind it that you can turn by putting in a screwdriver through to turn the wheel to adjust the brake shoes in and out is this the case on a Mk7 Escort ? Had a look in the Haynes manual but cant see anything about resetting this adjuster ? ( it just shows it on a picture / sketch ) Do I have to disassemble the whole drum brake / shoes to reset ? Another thought maybe there is an adjuster under the car where it splits from the handbrake cable to go to each wheel ( cable equaliser ) ? again I cant see this by looking in the manual ? What's the best / first step to check ?

Hi Paul, Thanks for the input, the high RPM when coasting has seemed to have sorted itself out last time I drove her ? I never noticed a car hanging up or doing this before that's why I questioned it ? The revs drop down to NML idle revs now ? when you put the clutch in and coast to a stop no hanging ? I did take off the TPS again ( as its a 2 minute job ) and gave it another squirt of WD40 maybe that helped ? maybe the ECU had to reset itself fully and now that has ? The idle has now settled down to about 950 RPM, I will try to manually adjust the idle down to 800 RPM later if this is possible ? but the Haynes manual says this engine ( zetec ) can't be adjusted without specialised equipment because its controlled by the engine management system ? it also doesn't list a RPM for this engine ? lets hope its sorted now and thanks again for the message

no its not haha thats the throttle position sensor ( sorry got confused ) the ICV is on the front of the throttle body behind the engine held on by 2 x 8mm bolts in that small gap, you cant see the bottom bolt until you undo the top bolt and swing the unit up then you can see the bottom bolt and get a spanner on it easily ( that's how I got it off ) But trying putting it back in hmmm the unit needs to be in situ to fully tighten it ? and you cant see the bolt neither can you get a hand in the gap from either side because of all the pies etc. to feel the bolt properly ? so you can get a spanner on it unless you a vey small handed contorsionist. We ended up with me under the car threading a spanner up through the gaps in the various pipes, to my mate with a screwdriver trying to locate the spanner on the bolt from above by feel haha not a pleasant experience and would like to know the secret of getting it back on ?

Hi Jinks, It's on the right hand side of the throttle body at the top

Hi John, Thanks I will spray the throttle body with carb cleaner and do the linkages, I already took off and cleaned the throttle positioning sensor with wd40 ? when I changed the idle control valve, it wasn't doing this before I changed the ICV so maybe this one is also at fault ? the old one was just not running at idle properly where this one is ( except the 1500 RPM thing ) lucky I kept the old one and just cleaned it with carb cleaner, so if the problem persists I might put the clean old one back on to see what happens ? but what a pain to get to it do it haha

Problem sorted ( found a second hand manual ) carefully prise out the front and rear fog light switch and front / rear window heater switch, and disconnect the wires, pull off the heater control knobs, only 2 screws and a careful pull and the part of the dash that holds the clock comes away from the rest of the dashboard. 3 screws secure the clock, and the bulbs twist out ,3.75 Euros for 2 bulbs all done in 20 mins.

bought another Cabriolet a 2000 1.6i 147,000 Kms a few little problems ( see my posts ) but a good project car might be ready for the summer haha

sorted got a hard copy second hand

Hi I have a 2000 1.6i it was running a bit rough and when idling would go from almost cutting out to running fast sometimes especially when first started from cold . I changed the idle control valve ( pain in the a... you have to have very small hands and eyes on stalks to see and find the bottom bolt when refitting so its tightened properly, ended up with 2 of us one above and one under the car to get a spanner on it to get the new one back on !! taking the old one off is easy as you can undo the top bolt then swing the sensor out of the way while attached by the bottom bolt so you can get to it OK to undo it ) and took it for a test run, now much smoother but if I put the clutch in before stopping it will go down to an idle speed of 1500 RPM while I am still moving ? until I actually stop it goes down to 1000 ? the RPMs stay steady now so why the delay in dropping to the correct RPM Any ideas

Cheers that's also another couple of possibilities, I was thinking maybe it was a drive shaft / wishbone / trackrod end ? I will get it checked when I can get her up on a ramp. Sometimes when I pull away with the steering turned to the right it makes a grinding / vibrating noise ( not tyres on the bodywork though ) maybe its the same problem ?

Do you not have places where they break up cars there and sell the parts ? Or a website where you can buy second hand parts like E-Bay ?

When I accelerate hard through the gears when I put in the clutch to change up the car pulls to the left ? ( left hand drive ) straightens back up when you come off the clutch ? not so bad if you drive normally ? Thoughts please

haha They only list these as being built up to 07/2000 in Europe ? in most reviews they say 1999 so mine being registered on 12/07/2000 would certainly be one of the last

silly question but I have no manual for the car how do I change the bulb in the clock ( analogue ) in the dash of a 2000 1.6 Cab the clock works but does not light up when lights are put on ? I cant see how it comes out or how I get to the back if that is indeed where the bulb is located ? hopefully its not a case of taking the whole dash out to replace a 10 cent bulb ?? Still looking for a site to download the Haynes repair manual for free.