Guest Craigyvar Posted February 11, 2016 Share Posted February 11, 2016 Good evening all, Firstly, a huge thanks to all the useful information posted on the forums as it has allowed me to get this far! Right, the problem... Got this car middle of last year as non-runner. Previous owner had said that he had it running but only by holding the sensor plate in the metering unit. I immediately thought it could be an air leak but cannot for love nor money find any obvious issues with what I have so, I then replaced the following hoping it was a simple fix: spark plugs HT leads rotor arm dizzy cap ignition module but, no joy. All it did was start and die better than it had previously! Incidentally, when it does run briefly, it sounds sweet. So I looked at the fuel system. It primes and I believe I hear the pump running during the start cycle. Fuel is flowing nicely through the filter...I bridged the fuel pump relay and still had no joy. Checked the cold start to see if it was flooding the engine but that appears to be working nicely. When I keep cranking the car it runs for longer which I believe is due to fuel coming from the cold start valve. I have a second hand tatty metering unit which I put on and replaced the filter while I was there but when I re-pressurised the system I had a fine mist coming out of one of the ends of the filter (which I think I put there when fitting!) So my questions to you all are: 1. Does it sound like a metering unit issue? 2. Would the car start if there is an issue with the warm up regulator? Is there a quick test without a pressure gauge I can do? 3. Is there anything really obvious I need to be checking? Any thoughts at all would be great! p.s. I will post a picture of the dodgy rotor arm I replaced...worth a laugh! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian71 Posted February 12, 2016 Share Posted February 12, 2016 Might be worth changing the fuel pump,not expensive but then you know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jinks Posted February 12, 2016 Share Posted February 12, 2016 take look at injectors if they working wright Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Craigyvar Posted February 13, 2016 Share Posted February 13, 2016 Ok...thanks for the replies. I'll order a pump just to try that too. Is there anything out there to tell you about the flow of the K-Jet metering unit? Because I have good pressure when I crack some unions...just definitely not the top 4. Has anyone taken one apart to free the small piston inside? What are your thoughts on the WUR in terms of start/no start? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jinks Posted February 13, 2016 Share Posted February 13, 2016 have you got a manual Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian71 Posted February 13, 2016 Share Posted February 13, 2016 When you turn ignition on you should here the pump make a noise,the pump then should run all the time,older pumps are noisy and you can here them buzzing. If you have doubts over the injection system try a couple of guys on here breaking mk4s,maido and gingerman they will have second hand working parts on the shelf. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Craigyvar Posted February 13, 2016 Share Posted February 13, 2016 I get the prime then it runs during the start cycle but I took the relay and bridges so it ran continuously and still no joy. I have a manual but can't see any info on the metering head. When I get a chance next I'll have to fit a new filter due the new one being damaged and then I'll see what happens. It just seems that I have a stuck/sticky plunger as the sensor plate bobs nicely during the start. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian71 Posted February 13, 2016 Share Posted February 13, 2016 Sounds as if its fuel related Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Craigyvar Posted February 13, 2016 Share Posted February 13, 2016 I agree. I just took the head off the metering unit (3 X torx screws) as it seems like the plate is moving without any resistance. The pin is moving...I just wonder if it's blocked etc. Is it easy to rebuild these things?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Craigyvar Posted February 16, 2016 Share Posted February 16, 2016 Been out on the car again...refitted the original metering device and had a little bit of success with the car running on a bit longe but now I'm back to square one. Next step is to check the injectors. I'm having trouble removing them though. What's the easiest way to do this? I was using a bit of wire to bridge the fuel pump relay and when I went reinstall it, the pump does not prime. Any thoughts? Thank you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Craigyvar Posted February 17, 2016 Share Posted February 17, 2016 So, managed to have another look at the car today...I had it running for longer than two seconds but it did sound like a tractor and the whole car was shaking as it laboured to a stall. I started it with the throttle fully open and it revved up but died as I took my foot off the pedal. Still with the relay bridged, I left the pump running with no crank and fuel was circulating through the system with no leaks. I then gently opened the airflow sensor plate and I could hear a really high pitch noise (like fingers being dragged down a chalkboard) as fuel made its way to the injectors. I have some spare fuel lines from the metering unit to the injector so I disconnected one and put the end with no injector into a bottle to see what the fuel flow was like. It was pretty poor considering there is meant to be some pressure, I thought it would be flying out like my cold start valve. I now think I have a fuel pump problem but I read somewhere, if you can hear it, generally its ok? I did cure my 'no prime' problem as the 'INJ' fuse in the engine fusebox had blown. Could this be a sign of fuel pump failure as it is drawing more current or is this because I used the wiring to bridge? What does that fuse protect anyway? Needless to say, I have ordered another pump but any other suggestions would be great. Sorry for all the questions! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Craigyvar Posted March 5, 2016 Share Posted March 5, 2016 What should the flow to the injectors be like? I understand this would vary based on the position of the airflow sensor but should it be quite a lot? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest username Posted March 8, 2016 Share Posted March 8, 2016 Not my forte but as nobody else has seen it/replied yet, my 2p worth (based more on experience of mechanical diesel injection though lol), there would be more pressure than flow to the injector (i.e pipe without injector would pretty much dribble, try cranking it with an injector on the end of your spare pipe and it should give more of an idea (keep out of the way of any spray though, direct it into a jar as it could literally inject you if there's lots of pressure!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Craigyvar Posted March 8, 2016 Share Posted March 8, 2016 That's a great point. Makes sense! Thank you. I've had the fuel pump running constantly before and apparently the high pitched noise I can hear is the injectors working. So, the system must work, there is just something stopping it. Is it common for warm up regulators to put too much pressure out and stop the pin in the metering unit rise? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Craigyvar Posted March 9, 2016 Share Posted March 9, 2016 Changed the warm up regulator today. No difference. Starting to lose faith now! Has anyone had to rebuild the metering head before? I had it running with my foot on the throttle. Initially sounded like 1 or 2 cylinders then sounded sweet then died. Really weird. So timing must be right and occasionally, there is air and fuel. What now??!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Craigyvar Posted March 28, 2016 Share Posted March 28, 2016 Hi everyone, Managed to get out and give it a quick once over. So, new pump installed and no difference. I bridged the relay and the 20a INJ fuse melted. It did this with the old pump and the new one so am I right in thinking the wiring to the pump is bad? Any thoughts would be great. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Craigyvar Posted April 22, 2016 Share Posted April 22, 2016 Took the intake pipe between air flow sensor and throttle. Got a mate to crank the car and with holding the metering flap and throttle, managed to get her running (sounded really good too). So it's deffo a fuel issue, going to teardown the metering unit and see what it's like inside. Doesn't look like it could be an air leak. Could be too much control pressure from the WUR though. At least it started!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian71 Posted April 22, 2016 Share Posted April 22, 2016 Any little air leak can cause rough running or no starting,check all them hoses/pipes or replace them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Craigyvar Posted April 24, 2016 Share Posted April 24, 2016 So take fuel pump out of the equation and get a mate to crank whilst spraying lots of flammable stuff? Just don't know how else to find it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jinks Posted April 25, 2016 Share Posted April 25, 2016 have you done a compression test chap Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Craigyvar Posted April 25, 2016 Share Posted April 25, 2016 Hi, yes done a compression test and all around 80...I had it running when holding the AFS plate and throttle and it sounded sweet with no nasty smoke etc. I feel I may have to get a rebuild kit for the metering unit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Craigyvar Posted May 7, 2016 Share Posted May 7, 2016 Luckily, a ford mechanic happened to be doing an inspection on another one of.my cars and gave me a few pointers with the car. He said to play around with the CO screw on the metering unit, check the inlet manifold gasket and also see if the brake servo was leaking. I tried the jest solution and now she runs! Albeit around 2000rpm. Now I'm just tweaking the CO mixture ever so slightly to get the revs down. The aim is to get it in a manageable state to drive to a MOT centre at a later date. Just thought I'd share their her solutions incase someone is in the same position as me! Oh, and on a delegate note, I'm using an Intermoler Fuel Pump Relay instead of the purple one and it works perfectly. I just hear people saying its purple or nothing!!! Thanks for all the help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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