Guest dee1orean Posted July 14, 2009 Share Posted July 14, 2009 That Lexus colour would be great mate !!! That's what I'm thinking mate, it's the closest to the Kandy without being a Kandy if you know what I mean. I'll have to see if I can find a paint code. Remember I posted this pic of where my workmate crashed my car? Well, after a few hours with the pin puller, a planinshing hammer and a little bit of filler, this is the result: Looks much better doesn't it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Ady Posted July 15, 2009 Share Posted July 15, 2009 online body man, could do with mine doing, spot on job m8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Escort Cabriolet Club Posted July 16, 2009 Share Posted July 16, 2009 LOL, what are mates for, good fix mate !!! Let us know when you find out how much the paint costs mate !!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest dee1orean Posted July 20, 2009 Share Posted July 20, 2009 Yep it's that time again, update time. Thought it was time to make a start on flushing the fuel cap and relocating the hose. So, the areas that neen work: The initial cuts, I like using the cutting tool Pulling the filler hose through: The hole that needed filling, Baremetaled the rusty bits and applied plenty of kurust. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest dee1orean Posted July 20, 2009 Share Posted July 20, 2009 (edited) The patch panel made up: Offered up: And welded in, as you can see I did start to grind the welds down and then I thought, "Hang on, they're guna want to see the knobbly bits of weld", So, here's the knobbly bits of weld! for some reason you get more "burn" when using weld through primer: Welds ground down, I went back in and welded up the small holes you can see but didn't take pics: And lastly using my trusty mix of 50% Polyester filler & 50% Fibreglass filler, the first application of filler: I did start to block this out and will finish tomorrow, hopefully. So, after the body side of things is dealt with I'm going to have to tackle the actual filler neck, I'm not worried about forming an inner arch, but am trying to figure out what to do with the filler neck. Should I replace the whole filler pipe? if so, does anyone know the diameter of the fuel filler pipe at the tank end? Should I do away with or try to include the breather pipe? Should I cut the top off the original pipe and extend it somehow? Any suggestions greatfully recieved. Cheers!! Edited July 20, 2009 by dee1orean Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest murcus Posted July 21, 2009 Share Posted July 21, 2009 Should I replace the whole filler pipe? if so, does anyone know the diameter of the fuel filler pipe at the tank end? i would only replace this if you cant get the angle etc you are needing, or if it looks worn Should I do away with or try to include the breather pipe? i wouldnt, breather pipes are normally there for a reason, when you pierce a drum and the liquid flows, it flows faster when there is a breather pipe at the top Should I cut the top off the original pipe and extend it somehow?, as long as you use and pipes or tubes that does melt wehn petrol is poured through, but if it were me, i would just order som petrol pipe from ebay and cut it to length but it coming along well keep it up lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest clacky Posted July 22, 2009 Share Posted July 22, 2009 Hi, continued congratulations on the good work Don't want to cast any gloom but will it pass the MOT with the fuel filler on the inside of the car, just thinking about the potential for petrol fumes inside the car etc etc?? Would like to know as i think it is a great improvement and would love to do the same to mine Keep it up Cheers Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest dee1orean Posted July 22, 2009 Share Posted July 22, 2009 A valid point mate. The plan is to have the fuel neck behind the rear light, and once it's all connected up to box off the area where the pipework is. That way there should be no risk of fumes entering the car, the fuel neck will be accessed via a hinged rear light. Hope that makes sense. Jez. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest murcus Posted July 23, 2009 Share Posted July 23, 2009 i dont think it would make any probs passing an mot, as you can have your fuel tank in the back, as long as its in the proper container etc i like the sound of the hinged light, i vaguely remember a nova in max power a few years ago, that had something simmilar, and also remember one which had polly rear windows, and the filler in the middle of the window think i still have that mag lying around Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Steve Posted July 23, 2009 Share Posted July 23, 2009 vERY NICE WORK M8 I WISH I COULD DO IT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest dee1orean Posted July 25, 2009 Share Posted July 25, 2009 Cheers Guys, My inspiration for the rear light\hidden fuel filler neck came from a 55 Chevy Modification: Rear quarter filler work all complete and sprayed with a light dust of primer, not too much as I keep the car inside anyway. For some reason some pics of my woofer got mixed into my car pics, so let me introduce LULU Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest dee1orean Posted July 25, 2009 Share Posted July 25, 2009 I also had a go at revamping the recaro subframes: As you can see they were in pretty bad shape: Sanded down and drenched in KUrust: And finally, painted with hammerite, along with a few other rusty bits n' bobs, not the best job, but much better than before: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted July 25, 2009 Share Posted July 25, 2009 I like what you doing mate, especially the hinged light. Hello Lulu. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest dee1orean Posted July 25, 2009 Share Posted July 25, 2009 Cheers Mate, glad you like!!! I try to break up the work I'm doing, just to keep my enthusiasm going, If I was doing day in day out bodywork, I'd probably burn out and lose interest, but by doing small jobs like the subframes and the seatbacks it breaks the monotony and keeps me interested. Cheers!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest dee1orean Posted July 25, 2009 Share Posted July 25, 2009 Murcus, Do you have any links to any fuel pipes? I can only find ones of about 6mm! I may buy another hose designed for another car and join the two together yet. Cheers. Jez. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest clacky Posted July 25, 2009 Share Posted July 25, 2009 (edited) Cheers Mate, glad you like!!! I try to break up the work I'm doing, just to keep my enthusiasm going, If I was doing day in day out bodywork, I'd probably burn out and lose interest, but by doing small jobs like the subframes and the seatbacks it breaks the monotony and keeps me interested. Cheers!! Hi Jez Nice work so far !! Hi Lulu Saw something similar on one of the american hot rod programmes re the fuel filler pipe, always thought it made sense when i have seen it as a stock item on the yankee cars when they have it behind the hinged number plate. Look forward to seeing the final result on this part of your project What would we do without Kurust and Hammerite, love em Fully understand what you say about losing interest as mine seems to have many jobs on the go all at once and i just get up and start on the one that i fancy the most on that day Cheers Chris Edited July 25, 2009 by clacky Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest clacky Posted July 25, 2009 Share Posted July 25, 2009 Hi i note from an earlier post that your preference was for Upol over P38. Can i ask why you prefer Upol? I checked on the web and notice that P38 is a Upol product as well so just wondering what the difference is as i need to restock Cheers Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest dee1orean Posted July 25, 2009 Share Posted July 25, 2009 My initial Post was meant to reference "Davids P38" as in the past it's had quite a bad rep, and was the only option from halfords for the diy'er but most pro's wouldn't touch the stuff. It's not the case so much now as halfords stock other products Such as Upol, I didn't realise that Upol fine polyester filler was also classified as "P38" which may be where the confusion lies, where did you find this info? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest clacky Posted July 25, 2009 Share Posted July 25, 2009 My initial Post was meant to reference "Davids P38" as in the past it's had quite a bad rep, and was the only option from halfords for the diy'er but most pro's wouldn't touch the stuff.It's not the case so much now as halfords stock other products Such as Upol, I didn't realise that Upol fine polyester filler was also classified as "P38" which may be where the confusion lies, where did you find this info? I just happening to note on the Davids tin of P38 that i was using, that the web address was www.u-pol.com so i went and had a look and noticed that Davids Isopon P38 and Upol are both made by Upol along with P40 etc I expect that P38 is for the domestic market, hence the small tins available and that Upol is more for the commercial end of the market. I was just wondering what the difference is with the finish and usability between the products Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest dee1orean Posted July 25, 2009 Share Posted July 25, 2009 Just checked out Upols site it looks to me as if Upol have bought Davids out and are marketing it under Isopon as they list Isopon P38 & Isopon P40, whereas it used to be Davids P38 & P40, Maybe the quality has improved. I've heard that in the past there where adhesion issues due to the filler actually hardening too much and coming away from the surface. I remember working on this old 69 Mustang and the filler was like concrete, we were chipping it away in chunks that were 1cm or more thick we assumed then that it had been Davids. It's up to you mate but I must say I do like the Upol easylite easy sand filler paste as it's quite gloopy and easy too spread and what would I do without topstop... ahh it's heaven lol!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest murcus Posted July 25, 2009 Share Posted July 25, 2009 Just checked out Upols site it looks to me as if Upol have bought Davids out and are marketing it under Isopon as they list Isopon P38 & Isopon P40, whereas it used to be Davids P38 & P40, Maybe the quality has improved.I've heard that in the past there where adhesion issues due to the filler actually hardening too much and coming away from the surface. I remember working on this old 69 Mustang and the filler was like concrete, we were chipping it away in chunks that were 1cm or more thick we assumed then that it had been Davids. It's up to you mate but I must say I do like the Upol easylite easy sand filler paste as it's quite gloopy and easy too spread and what would I do without topstop... ahh it's heaven lol!! i preffer th use the upol easy sand as well, also doesnt set as quick as davids p38 ill have a look later mate for fuel pipes, you should get them in a few sizes 6-8ml, then some thicker stuff with reducers to fit from filler neck, but most cars have plastic filler necks, would be alot better with some thick rubber, or possibly have some stainless piping with a reducer to the tank? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest murcus Posted July 26, 2009 Share Posted July 26, 2009 (edited) some parts and links you might find usefull: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/GOODYEAR-13mm-1-2-fu...alenotsupported some 16mm hose above http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Ford-Anglia-105E-Pet...alenotsupported ford anglia neck filler http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Rubber-petrol-filler...alenotsupported lotus élan curved one http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Petrol-filler-from-a...alenotsupported this one below i think could be usefull http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/V-W-GOLF-MK1-1981-19...alenotsupported the one above could be modified to fit http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Husqvarna-petrol-fil...alenotsupported Edited July 26, 2009 by murcus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest dee1orean Posted July 27, 2009 Share Posted July 27, 2009 Cheers for the links mate, I liked the elan spider neck, mainly for the fuel cap lol, I've got my eye on a susuki alto neck and cap at the mo, so we'll see how that goes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Escort Cabriolet Club Posted July 30, 2009 Share Posted July 30, 2009 The Sub-Frames look like they came out OK mate !!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest dee1orean Posted September 11, 2009 Share Posted September 11, 2009 Hiya, I haven't updated in a while so just wanted to let you know what's going on. Project has hit a dead stop at the mo which is annoying. I'm not able to keep it at the college any longer due to the fact that we have an over subscribed body repair course this year. We usually only have two 1st yr groups, this year we have three. Plus two 2nd Yr and one large 3rd year group, which I'm also a part of. So all these extra students mean we have to bring in extra cars for them to work on so unfortunately my cabby has to go to make way for these inferior models. Though we do have an XJS which we are turning into a track car for one of the members of the Jaguar enthusists club so that'll be fun. All is not lost though!!! coz I have a lock up!! which I share with four other guys (we are looking for a 5th to make six altogether... it's a large lock up!!) anyway, my MR2 is there at the mo so I'm going to scrap that and store my cabby there. Trouble is the lock up is about 10-15miles from where I live depending on route. so in order to work on my car I'm going to need to buy a car to drive to the lock up to work on my car, so I'm going to see if I can source a cheap cabby around the £400 mark, which I can then use for spares when the project is complete. won't be for a few months tho as I'm broke due to having most of the summer off. I'm also going to need a mig welder and a compressor capable of running a spraygun, good news is I'll be in a position to offer bargain resprays for fellow club members but more about that if my plans all pan out. So there you have it, I haven't given up, merely hit a few obstacles which will be overcome. Cheers! Jez. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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