iansoutham

Next (small) update... As the car is now officially off the road until next year I thought it would be an ideal time to start on some more of the "niggling" jobs. Take 1 standard front antiroll bar mounting plate (which was brand new under 2 years ago :shock :shock ) and remove original bush. Take 1 uprated Sierra front antiroll bar polyurethane bush (note the extra material in the middle for added rigidity) ... and 1 pair of brand new Ford Sierra antiroll bar clamps and we have an uprated kit :thumbs The mounting plates do need to be shotblasted back to bare metal and then painted or enamelled accordingly.

Very good place. Had my MK4 done there in 2003 in black mohair. Fully fitted from a blank piece of fabric, double-stitched, extra padding and water-proof membrane plus new cables for £250. Made to measure and fitted in less than 4 hours as well. Even now it is in perfect condition.

If you decide to go for the 260mm route, get a set of brake calipers and brackets from either a Sierra or Granada (not Scorpio) with ABS. They have 260mm calipers as standard. Best option is someone selling a set of 2.9 XR4x4 calipers. That way you do not pay any "RS" tax. You can also go for bigger brakes if using 15" or bigger wheels. Use 283mm 2wd Cosworth front discs and 1986-1992 Granada 24V front calipers. They are a straight bolt-on job using 1mm flat washers between the caliper bracket and the knuckle. If using 1992 onwards calipers, you need to drill the front knuckle out to 12mm as the later ones use M12 bolts, not M10 like earlier models.

The fuel pump will not always prime. If you want to make sure, go to the fuel pump relay and bridge the big black/red wire and the black wire. The fuel pump should prime until you either turn the ignition off or remove the "bridge". If it does not, then you either have no power to the relay or there is a bad connection/knackered pump issue.

Okay, I am going to attempt to help, regardless of the "attitude" displayed. There is no such thing as "MFI" or "EFI" clocks as such. The fuel and temp gauges were swapped in 1988. If you have small square warning lamps (handbrake, battery, oil, etc) then the fuel gauge should be on the right. These are pre-1988 clocks. If you have oblong warning lamps, the temp gauge is on the right. These are post-1988 clocks. If you have post-1988 clocks, then the sender in the tank is different as the later models have a "continuous" fuel reading. Use late clocks with an early sender unit and you have a fuel gauge that does what it wants when the fuel level gets below 3/4 tank. The only difference between ALL sets of high-spec clocks is the rev counter. The various models are: CVH (non-EFI). Standard 4-pulse rev counter CVH (EFI). Reads 2-pulses as it works with a coilpack for wasted spark. When used on a non-coilpack car, the revcounter will read half revs. Valencia (same as EFI but with lower redline) Diesel (can run on any version but the takeoff wire (green) needs to go to the "W" terminal on the alternator as the revcounter reads a 7V single-phase voltage, not standard 12V. Basically, it sounds like you need to go back and look @ what year-range components you have fitted. As far as the temp gauge issues go, you probably have the wrong sender fitted and the other clocks have "masked" the problem. You should have a green-topped sender.

The rear anti-roll bar was used with certain engine specifications I believe. You can fit one, but need the appropriate rear arms. You also need the brackets, inner bushes, outer lever arms, the correct bracket bolts and the insert to stop the rear chassis section from distorting when tightened and the car is in motion. I retro-fitted one to mine. It came from an Escort S1 Turbo, complete with arms, etc... Renmember as well that there is 2 sizes of rollbar, 12mm (everything other than 3-door) and 16mm (3-door models only). This is basically what you need:

Will be on show @ Central Day (Santa Pod) with UKFORDOC if anyone wants to come and say hello and have a look round it :drive1:

The inside of the cowling is coated in a protective sprayed-on stone-chip before being over-painted as that is where the water sits. This way, the water does not sit on the metal or paint directly.

Bit more rubbing down of the plastic primer until I was happy with the finish, then onto the actual primer Next was a guide coat of grey Followed by finishing the recesses (bolt hoes, etc) and the semi-finished product frying nicely Have now fitted the cleaned rubber seal back on and attached with an adhesive rather than horrible staples, so should stay on for longer.

After all the engine bay work, it has been decided that the cambelt cover is kind of letting the side down, so it is also in for the "refurb" treatment. Started off with a spare cambelt cover from a spare engine. Pretty standard sort of condition I would say... After some careful "preparation" of the surface to be worked, it was out with the specialist plastic bumper repair kit we use in work. After that had dried, it was rubbed down to show any "low spots" which then had another layer applied Once rubbed down, it was time for a quick "guide coat" to see if any imperfections remained which were then filled with a "stopper". This was then rubbed back and ended up looking like this Next was into the paint booth to get a couple of light coats of specialist plastic primer which was then left to set naturally overnight

Cowling and fan are finished.... ... and all fitted back together.... Did not want the fan motor body in silver or anything similar as it would look obviously painted. What I was after was something a little more subtle. I think I have managed it, opinions???

Well, brakes are basically done.... All fitted, bled and happy. Will get some better pictures when it comes back out the garage as most of the ones I took came out rubbish (rushing mainly). Need to find a couple of new bleed nipple caps and that should be it until I can afford the brake lines. On a better note, the radiator cowling is also finished. Also took the fan unit apart and started on that. All rubbed back down and given 2 coats of etch-primer before applying a medium heat (paint stripper gun :lol ) and then lightly spraying 3 coats of high-build primer over the surface with additional heat between coats. This has given a nice "stippled" effect which was then finished with a coat of Renault "Champagne" body and bumper moulding spray.

Well, minor update time. Goodridge brake hoses will not be happening right this moment due to funding (ain't got any spare ATM). But, as DOT 5.1 brake fluid is FOC for me, it will be easy enough to swap it all over @ a later date. Due to the lousy weather recently when trying to fit the front brakes, they had been left for a short time and I turned my attention to the radiator fan cowling which has been bugging me since last year. So, it went into work and got attacked during lunch. Have not got any good pictures of it before, but suffice to say that it was absolutely rotten where the water sits. So, a quick grind and some slight reworking later, it ended up in some primer and some paint. Touch-up sections of etch primer in preparation for final primer coat Inside of the cowling finished

In that case, definitely come and speak to me before you get it. Being (until recently) the Vice President of the Owners Club means that I get to know a "little" bit about the marque. For info on the cars, etc.. you can check out the resto threads of the 2000e if you wish http://passionford.com/forum/showthread.php?t=228531 http://passionford.com/forum/showthread.php?t=243475

Who says that they will get the chance to gain dirt? Every time it goes out on the road it gets washed again (including wheels off) before it goes away, and even then it gets a cover over it

You know I've always been around in the background. Still got the Sierra(s). The runaround 2000e has now had its full restoration and the 4be of mine is now retired from the show circuit except for extreme circumstances. I actually did more miles in the cab last year than I had in the previous 2 years :wow: I think in 2007 I only pulled it out of the garage 7 times, and 5 of them were to get things out from behind it Ask nicely and I may even help out with the advice again

When I go round to the garage next in daylight, I will see what I can do for you. I got my kit from a friend who imports them, so got them @ cost price. Unfortunately, current economic climate means he can't take the chance anymore. If you look on the forums, a bloke calling himself nath69 is a distributor for the very good quality ones and his prices are quite cheap. I would recommend him to most people.

I've had a Bosch HID kit fitted in it for just over a year now. Full bi-xenon kit with 6000k light level

Right, rear drums are finished :up: You know it is getting bad when you can get a reflection in the paintwork on the rear drums :help: Next will be buying the rebuild kits for the front calipers and some Goodridge stainless brake lines with some nice black overcoating to keep them subtle. Unfortunately, that will have to wait until next month due to a current financial crisis, as in "I ain't got none" When it comes to putting it all back together again, it will be time to get the rear brake backing plates painted to match as well.

Got the rear drums sorted today. Just being left to bake overnight before they get their final coat tomorrow

Okay, got the front calipers in clearcoat today :thumbs All I need to do now is to get the rebuild seal kits off BiggRed and get some black-coated stainless brake lines and the fronts will be finished. The rear drums need a little more attention and then they will be getting some black enamel and an oven-bake to finish :smokin Must remove the bleed nipples as well and give them a brush back to bare metal. :cool

It is slowly coming together. Everything needs to be done by the end of March though.

Nice and busy lunchtime today... Rear drums have been blasted down and coated in etch primer. Next was a couple of coats of "high-build" primer on the sides to smooth the radius a little. All ready for final coat now... Front caliper brackets have been given the same treatment and then coated in etch-primer. Quick drying session and on with the silver top coat and some coats of lacquer. Calipers were taken back to zinc-plated finish and then the same with them.

Nice and busy lunchtime today... Rear drums have been blasted down and coated in etch primer. Next was a couple of coats of "high-build" primer on the sides to smooth the radius a little. All ready for final coat now... Front caliper brackets have been given the same treatment and then coated in etch-primer. Quick drying session and on with the silver top coat and some coats of lacquer. Calipers were taken back to zinc-plated finish and then the same with them.