Guest dave29 Posted September 27, 2011 Share Posted September 27, 2011 hi guys. i know this has been covered before but im having problems getting the petrol cap locked totaly on my all blue due to corrosion. is there any way i can replace the neck part of the filler without cuting the panel out as the paint is ok and dont wanna repaint it.cheers guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gingergman Posted September 27, 2011 Share Posted September 27, 2011 have you seen johns thread in restoration and project? he has just done his without cutting the outter panel. mine is totally fucked and made of tiger seal lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest John Posted September 27, 2011 Share Posted September 27, 2011 dave, pop round n have a look mate ur only 10 mins away. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest John Posted September 27, 2011 Share Posted September 27, 2011 well its worth giving the wife £150 for a weekend away didn't do anything i set out to do but after along time without being touched project got some work done. my welder turned up to do a little bit. Understatement for sure. all project needs now is spare wheel tub welded in & drivers wing secured down A post. all welding complete. Just secured storage for the all white for 5 months if needed so getting her shipped out then strip all underneath n paint. heres the finished filler neck from back from front deffo been worth it for sure well happy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest dave29 Posted October 11, 2011 Share Posted October 11, 2011 cheers for the invite john. i,ll try and pop round when i get through the mountian of stuff that needs doing lol.looks great. do you need to cut any steel out under the wheel arch to get to the filler neck or is it just a wheel arch liner out jobbie? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest John Posted October 11, 2011 Share Posted October 11, 2011 just behind the liner, & drill out the 4x spot weld that hold the old 1 in place. better to take tank out helps on getting into it as you need the filler tube out the way aswell heres some pics 2nd hand 1 off gimngerman before welded up got mine of gingerman its off a car he was breaking he has 1 in at moment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest dave29 Posted October 12, 2011 Share Posted October 12, 2011 i was planning on removing the tank as dont wanna blow meself up lol. welders and petrol dont mix. can you buy repair panels with the recess in? or is it cut one out of another cabby jobbie? cheers john. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest John Posted October 12, 2011 Share Posted October 12, 2011 updated my last post with pics Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gingergman Posted October 12, 2011 Share Posted October 12, 2011 never seen repair sections for the mk4, only mk5, believe its find a good one on a cabby and cut it out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest dave29 Posted October 13, 2011 Share Posted October 13, 2011 think ive just clicked on sumit ere john ........ the recessed part on mine is fine. its just the part inside there where the petrol cap locks into thats fooked. does this part bolt/weld in coz if it does it would make the job easier i think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest dave29 Posted October 13, 2011 Share Posted October 13, 2011 (edited) found whats fooked on mine..........this http://www.ebay.co.u...d#ht_499wt_1185 this makes the repair very easy. just bolts in by the look of it. Edited October 13, 2011 by dave29 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gingergman Posted October 13, 2011 Share Posted October 13, 2011 that just screws up to where the filler hole is, you will see the screw when you remove the petrol cap, easy to change over Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest dave29 Posted October 14, 2011 Share Posted October 14, 2011 thats easy enough. cheers guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gingergman Posted October 14, 2011 Share Posted October 14, 2011 be a bit carefull tho, that screw ikes to round off! and if like me you put alot of pressure on it you may find that what you thought was solid is not acually solid lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest John Posted October 14, 2011 Share Posted October 14, 2011 also has a bolt further down going into chassis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest dave29 Posted October 14, 2011 Share Posted October 14, 2011 any methods to undo the screws/bolts? got a feeling they are gunna be rusted solid.drill it out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest John Posted October 15, 2011 Share Posted October 15, 2011 loads of duck oil nite before mate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest dave29 Posted October 21, 2011 Share Posted October 21, 2011 are the tin top ones the same? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gingergman Posted October 21, 2011 Share Posted October 21, 2011 yeah there the same Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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