Guest Per_Norway Posted August 11, 2010 Share Posted August 11, 2010 Hello all, my first post here.. I've just bought a '88 cab with some idling issues.. Before i start with the symptoms, have a look at my engine compartment, I think someone might have 'improvised' with the fuel system connections? as you can see, this one has no fuel pressure regulator mounted behind the engine cover, instead it has a vacuum solenoid of some kind mounted on the rear side of the air filter box.. This difference is not mentioned in my Haynes manual, which states that only the RS turbo with KE Jetronic have such a solenoid.. and the one pictured in haynes doesn't look like this one! This regulator solenoid thing makes a rattle then you turn the ignition key(and the pump is running), and keeps making some noise when the engine is running.. So to the symptoms: Engine is easily started when cold, but it stabilizes at 1500-2000rpm.. as the engine gets warm, the idle rpm lowers, and after a while it stops.. at this point its very hard to get it running again.. I checked out the fuel pump, as the engine revs easily and runs well except the idle problem.. The fuel filter is new.. Hope you can help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest essycabbb5 Posted August 11, 2010 Share Posted August 11, 2010 thats a odd 1, no idea about that but i have noticed a wierd 1 your battery is on the opposite side to normal all i have seen batts on n/s and fuse box on the o/s is it a left hand drive or has been in the past bud and converted back to right Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest essycabbb5 Posted August 11, 2010 Share Posted August 11, 2010 lol just noticed ur screen name that could be the reason lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Per_Norway Posted August 11, 2010 Share Posted August 11, 2010 hehe, I suppose mine is a bit different than your "Driving on the wrong side of the road" models, yes.. I should mention this is not the XR3i engine, its a sloppy 90hp L4B with Cat.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Lee81 Posted August 11, 2010 Share Posted August 11, 2010 Some country's have very strict emission laws. Ford created adaptations using there parts bin to meet the restrictions as i have heard. Hence the CAT which has never been on any escort over here until around 1992-93. Your car is fitted with the usual k jetronic parts but all seems to have a few KE jetronic parts. I have also noted what looks like the fuel ecu from the rs turbo mounted behind the blower motor intake. Having never seen a system like this the only advice i can offer is that what ever device allows extra air in when cold idling is not working properly and possibly someone has adjusted the the idle speed screw to compensate. Which means it will idle when warm but eventually stop as revs lower Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest essycabbb5 Posted August 12, 2010 Share Posted August 12, 2010 has it got a air flow sensor near the air box if so that can cause this problem if its faulty. try unpluging it and see if it makes any diferance if it dosnt chainge it prob isnt working Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Per_Norway Posted August 12, 2010 Share Posted August 12, 2010 Looks like youre right, Lee81, the vacuum pressure regulator is from RS turbo.. Can anyone with a RS turbo engine tell me if that thing is supposed to make rattle noises when you turn the ignition key, and when the engine is running? Some development today, I fired it up and let it warm up to working temperature, when it did, the idling started pulsating up and down, not stabilizing at all.. As i figured the K jet, this resonance can happen if the control pressure is too low, and the baffle in the intake starts to oscilate.. This makes me suspect the pressure regulator, i've checked the resistance in cold start valve and auxilary air valve, and they look fine.. It's kinda hopeless to fix a system that is a mix of two systems without any documentation on the modifications.. Outside the weather is perfect for cab cruising, and i'm stuck with a VW transporter.. essycab: can't find any eletrical devices on or near the airbox.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Per_Norway Posted August 17, 2010 Share Posted August 17, 2010 (edited) I've got it running now, took out the RST regulator and rewired to K Jet components. Its still not perfect considering warm engine start, but its stable at idling.. I adjusted the Throttle position(idle) switch to a position that gave more opening by the throttlebody at idle, this got rid of the idling problems.. Any thoughts on the starting issue is appreciated, at least the car is usable again! Edited August 17, 2010 by Per_Norway Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Grainger Posted August 20, 2010 Share Posted August 20, 2010 Your problems all appear to be fuel related and may just need setting up. The missing valve behind the rocker cover is in fact only a warm up regulator so i wouldn't worry to much about that. I am assuming the catalyst fitted is only 'two way' without loop control? you can check this by making sure there is no oxygen sensor fitted in the exhaust down pipe? The air flow meters sometimes stick, if you take the intake hose off the fuel distributor, (that all the red injector pipes go to), the meter is the round disc inside, this gets sucked up when you accelerate moving a fuel control pin. (just make sure its not sticking by pulling it upwards, if it is than a replacement will be required). Have you tampered with the throttle body? this should be set with the plate as closed as possible without sticking when opening it by hand, then the lock nut should be tightend on the adjusting screw. (most people use this to adjust the idle speed which is incorrect, the wire going to it is for the overun fuel shut off relay). The idle should then be adjusted to 800 rpm (with the engine warm) using the air bleed screw on the bottom of the throttle housing. All this must be done as a pre-requirement for a trip to a garage equiped with an exhaust gas anyliser to set up the fuel mixture. This is adjusted by means if an extra deep 3mm allen key. The screw is located in the tiny little tube immediately behind the fuel distributor and should be adjusted to 1.5% CO content. The mechanic will probably say it can't be adjusted due to having a catylist, but there should be a sample plug to tap into on the downpipe before the cat. If they do not have the right connector or the plug isn't there, then ask for it to be adjusted to give the highest CO2 output. (Do not be tempted to try this yourself as the adjustment is ultra sensitive and you could easily stop it starting all together). this will be when combustion is the most efficient. After this i am sure it will run fine. Have fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Per_Norway Posted August 22, 2010 Share Posted August 22, 2010 Thanks for the input! Your'e right about the throttlebody, I adjusted it to a slightly more open idlepoint simply to get it to idle.. My car has got two switches here, one that shuts when "no throttle", and one for "Full throttle". This problem was however caused by a faulty oxygen sensor(yes, there is a three wire sensor on my downpipe) which i have now replaced with a new one. (a bit embarased that i didn't think of that one before) Could this adjusting of the throttlebody be the cause? I will check the airflow meter one more time, but this think it was fine.. I have already been at a garage and adjusted the mixture, so its running very fine when started.. i'll investigate some more tomorrow! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Grainger Posted August 26, 2010 Share Posted August 26, 2010 Great stuff, The cause is more likly to be a build of of carbon, thats all. Sometimes you can get away with just cleaning them. Adjusting the throttle body can be a problem as the sensoe will now provide a higher voltage at idle, this means the ECU will think the thottle is always slightly open. To rectify this you could just disconnect the battery for a few minutes, this will clear the KAM codes, it will then learn the new idle values as you use it. Good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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