Guest macabrio Posted July 17, 2009 Share Posted July 17, 2009 Yea I did read it.. it might of been something in one of the cylinder's gone when it conked out on you was why I mentioned it. Also you said it smelt rich so checking the mixture would be something to try. Another obvious thing but have you made sure the timing is still good ? Could of slipped when you broke down before. Big thanks for the code reader diag's sure it will help :icon_salut_gb: OK ta ! I'm pretty sure its a sensor down or Fuel related like fuel pressure regulator is the next port of call. dont think its timing related as i was coasting when it happened ,jus cut out like out of fuel jerkiness. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobMk4TwinCarb Posted July 17, 2009 Share Posted July 17, 2009 OK ta ! I'm pretty sure its a sensor down or Fuel related like fuel pressure regulator is the next port of call.dont think its timing related as i was coasting when it happened ,jus cut out like out of fuel jerkiness. I always tend to think it's something worse than it is ! What happens when your car breaks as much as mine lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest macabrio Posted July 17, 2009 Share Posted July 17, 2009 I always tend to think it's something worse than it is ! What happens when your car breaks as much as mine lol. I know what you mean lol, ive only had the car a few weeks an its brokedown twice, dodgy fuel pump wiring and now this shit. I thought i'd bought a gud un cos it looks/feals like its been rebuilt. :msg1: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest murcus Posted July 19, 2009 Share Posted July 19, 2009 ok, ok no point getting flustered lets atart from the start: ok its obviously a fuel problem as it hesittes to rev, or sensor: so could be: injectors are clogged throttle position sensor heated oxygen sensor (ho2s) engine control module fuel pressure regulator engine cooland temperature (ect) sensor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest murcus Posted July 19, 2009 Share Posted July 19, 2009 ok, we think it might be a fuel, or sensor problem: so could be: are the battery terminals tight? fuel pump or relay blocked fuel pipes injectors are clogged throttle position sensor heated oxygen sensor (ho2s) engine control module fuel pressure regulator, sits on side of inlet manifold engine cooland temperature (ect) sensor, sits beneath dizzy, has blue end sticking buterfly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest macabrio Posted July 22, 2009 Share Posted July 22, 2009 (edited) ok, we think it might be a fuel, or sensor problem: so could be: are the battery terminals tight? Checked fuel pump or relay - Checked blocked fuel pipes - Not checked injectors are clogged - Not checked throttle position sensor - mmm, bit dodgy this as described in other posts about red herring fault code (tps high or ws it low ?) .proceeded to dismantle tps and partially broke it . heated oxygen sensor (ho2s) -N/A engine control module - Do you mean ecu (Doubtful ) ? or ignition module thing on inner wing (checked for bad/rusty connections) ? fuel pressure regulator, sits on side of inlet manifold - not checked engine cooland temperature (ect) sensor, sits beneath dizzy, has blue end - checked sticking buterfly - not looked at properly but no binding at all at cable cam end I'm going to get fuel pressure tests done on car this week then i can rule out some of above. Could you (or anyone ?) pleeeeeeeeze do a quick check for me if you have a multimeter and check for me what the starting voltage is on your car at the tps (must be plugged in and at idle) ? as mine currently starts at around 5v and drops as i move the throttle round to around 0.5v . i think this is incorrect as most cars its the opposite right ? This would make the car think the throttle is wide open and put it into 'unflood mode' meaning no injector pulse. I would be very grateful if you could as this is the sort of problem where i need another car to compare with or try parts off in a bid to resolve this. Edited July 22, 2009 by macabrio Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest hoochydady Posted July 23, 2009 Share Posted July 23, 2009 hi have u disconected the batt for a hour and let your ecu reset ? some times this helps . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest macabrio Posted July 23, 2009 Share Posted July 23, 2009 Yea, disconned batt to erase fault codes but just the same . Can anyone plz test there TPS for me on an EFi and tell me the readings with a multimeter ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest murcus Posted July 24, 2009 Share Posted July 24, 2009 im away at the moment, if i was home i'd get it checked for you, just trying to think of the probs i had with the xr2i, as it could be quite tempremental whats wrong with yours again, just not taking revs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest murcus Posted July 24, 2009 Share Posted July 24, 2009 (edited) and you have checked the timing is correct and that its not 180 deg out? as this can be easy to do and hard to pick up on as when the crank does 1 cycle the cam takes 2 cycles : which can in turn knock the engine 180 out it can still run, just not very well Edited July 24, 2009 by murcus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobMk4TwinCarb Posted July 24, 2009 Share Posted July 24, 2009 and you have checked the timing is correct and that its not 180 deg out? as this can be easy to do and hard to pick up on as when the crank does 1 cycle the cam takes 2 cycles : which can in turn knock the engine 180 out it can still run, just not very well The cam sprocket has a bit that projects which lines up to a mark on the head and obviously the crank pulley has a mark, so you would have to be pretty absent minded to not line up both and just go by the crank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest murcus Posted July 24, 2009 Share Posted July 24, 2009 The cam sprocket has a bit that projects which lines up to a mark on the head and obviously the crank pulley has a mark, so you would have to be pretty absent minded to not line up both and just go by the crank. i know the markings are there, but still have seen it done so much times, and even the markers are not always correct if you take out plug no1, and put a chop stick down. and turn the crank untill the chop stick is at its highest point, thats where tdc is supposed to be 99% of marking on cars and not normally bang on and you can do the same with the head by removing the rocker and turning the cam pully untill n0.1 is correct Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest macabrio Posted July 25, 2009 Share Posted July 25, 2009 (edited) Cheers for the suggestions boys but i MAY now have pin-pointed the prob, I removed the return line off the fuel pressure reg and started car (has become harder to start now aswell :icon_cry: ) and low and behold NO, ZERO, ZILCH fuel gets returned to the tank ! Why i did'nt check this before i dont know but that cant be right as its supposed to send most of the fuel back to tank at idle so this would cause massively high fuel pressure and cause injectors to throw a wobbler ! I'm gonna order one of those universal adjustable pressure regs today and try that. Also i might do a right-up on fitting it as a new Weber Reg is around £100 ! Must remember to take pics as i go cos i have a tendency to forget and get carried away finishing it as i'm so anxious to see if it works and go for a drive ................its been a month now tryin to find this fuckin fault ! Edited July 25, 2009 by macabrio Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest macabrio Posted July 25, 2009 Share Posted July 25, 2009 (edited) BTW i decided to break open the old Weber reg to see what the problem may have been (i'm like that ,I WANT TO KNOW ...............WHY !!!) and to be honest i could'nt find a great deal wrong with it , the diaphram looked in good fettle and apart from a VERY strong spring a few other parts and a ball bearing that had some slight rusting or fuel varnish on it - is all i could see wrong with it :throw: . I think the Ball bearing may have got stuck blocking the fuel flow back to tank or somethin. As it twang'd into several pieces when i opened it (nearly took my eye out that springs that fuckin strong !) i could'nt see exactly what WAS stuck if you know what i mean ,but there was no crap blocking it anywhere ,it was spotless inside ! Ho hum, another thing in pieces now but it was faulty i'm sure anyway ,i will post update when i get my new Reg. Edited July 25, 2009 by macabrio Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest murcus Posted July 25, 2009 Share Posted July 25, 2009 you should have prized off the cap at the top, and checked to see if it was letting you adjust the fuel pressure, ( i left a note in one of my other posta about cheap tuning ) i bought the fse boost valve for my xr2i,( about 69 pounds new ) and never noticed a difference from the std bosch unit, after that one was adjusted, i thought i could have had a spare for you, but one of ly ends is broken off the fse is aqward to fit in because of the brake servo , just 2 bolts and a rubber grommit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest macabrio Posted July 26, 2009 Share Posted July 26, 2009 (edited) you should have prized off the cap at the top, and checked to see if it was letting you adjust the fuel pressure, ( i left a note in one of my other posta about cheap tuning ) i bought the fse boost valve for my xr2i,( about 69 pounds new ) and never noticed a difference from the std bosch unit, after that one was adjusted, i thought i could have had a spare for you, but one of ly ends is broken off the fse is aqward to fit in because of the brake servo , just 2 bolts and a rubber grommit I did try and adjust the allen screw in the top but it made no difference to my running problem at all . I have also realised that the fitting of this rather large adjustable pressure reg with gauge may be a problem because of its bulk , hope i can fing somewhere to site it ! Edited July 26, 2009 by macabrio Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest murcus Posted July 26, 2009 Share Posted July 26, 2009 I did try and adjust the allen screw in the top but it made no difference to my running problem at all .I have also realised that the fitting of this rather large adjustable pressure reg with gauge may be a problem because of its bulk , hope i can fing somewhere to site it ! the fse boost valve does fir in, its just a bit tight, just push slightly against the servo, those things are unbreakable anyhow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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