Guest macabrio Posted July 15, 2009 Share Posted July 15, 2009 My mk4 1600 efi is running poor at low revs it pops spluts & backfires between idle & 3500 rpm. Was running mint and then one night just cut out at junction and wouldnt restart so i thought ran out of fuel (low on fuel cos of dodgy gauge !),put a tenner in .........same. Managed to start it but had to furiously pump accl pedal to keep it moving ,just no power. The engine won't tick over at all if the air temp sensor is plugged in it runs better with the sensor disconnected but as soon as its plugged back in the engine cuts out Things i have already tried tested air temp sensor pulled filler neck vent pipe ran with no fuel cap checked all air pipes (none blocked/leaking) tried with air filter off Tested map sensor and pipe Checked fuel pump relay and it primes ok disconnected fuel filter (looked new) and then put inlet pipe in jar and switched on ignition ............loads of fuel I can build the revs up slowly (sounds a bit rough though,missing n smells rich) and can get to 5-6000 but rev quickly does above . Thought id see if anyone has an idea whats up with it ? Anyone tried one of those draper code readers (3 pin) or can i do it myself with a bit of wire and an LED ? Anyone lend me one for beer tokens or come down and let me try bits off thier car ! ? I'm really desperate ,will pay £ to whoever comes down if we fix it but not willing to just throw money at sensors , filters ,pressure regs n stuff cos could end up costing me 100's of £ !!!, its my only car ,been off road for nearly a month Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest macabrio Posted July 15, 2009 Share Posted July 15, 2009 Just found this about reading older Ford ECU fault codes http://www.btinternet.com/~madmole/Reference/FCRReading.html Anyone tried it ? Bit wary but have done similar with other older cars like a Citroen XM i had and an Astra GTE and Vectra but those blinked the codes via the Engine management light on dash. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest macabrio Posted July 15, 2009 Share Posted July 15, 2009 Also just discovered (I always try this) if you delete the 'FCRReading.html' from the end of the url it goes to a whole list of other goodys including the probable fault codes themselves (although they're for the Mondeo !) ....here. http://www.btinternet.com/~madmole/Reference/FaultCodes.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest macabrio Posted July 17, 2009 Share Posted July 17, 2009 No one techy on here then ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest macabrio Posted July 17, 2009 Share Posted July 17, 2009 Anyway, tried what it said on the above site and it works ! I extraced codes from ecu and although i dont have the exact escort eeciv ecu codes i think there probably the same as Sierra/Scorpio (same ecu) and think i have a faulty throttle position sensor. i'll report back if replacement TPS cures my probs and then i'll do a write-up on how to do it for anyone whos interested ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest macabrio Posted July 17, 2009 Share Posted July 17, 2009 (edited) I'm now not sure wether the above site is entirely correct in its wording of the code meanings and is a bit vague in general . I have since found this site http://www.corral.net/tech/maintenance/eec...okoer.html#koeo which appears to be more correct on the preceedure on decifering the codes. Still trying to suss them out yet but this site explains 'my' findings a bit better however the wiring section of the BTINTERNET site is correct and worked for me in getting some codes/flashes from my homemade LED setup if you want to experiment ....BUT DO FIRST PM ME OR POST HERE to request a better wiring diagram/explanation of how i did it (not hard ,just 3 bits of wire and a 12v LED !) AS I WILL NOT BE HELD RESPONSIBLE FOR BLOWN ECU'S ! BTW those Draper or Gunson code readers for £15 on ebay (or ive seen them for ridiculous figures of i think £140 !!!!) ARE BASICALLY JUST A SWITCH AND AN LED AND ARE DOIND EXACTLY THE SAME THING AS I'M DOING ABOVE BUT FOR LESS THAN 50P ! :teu26: Edited July 17, 2009 by macabrio Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Orais Posted July 17, 2009 Share Posted July 17, 2009 hello mate was wondering how youre been getting on which the fault reading and how u made ure home fault metre! as i wood like to give this a go on my cab! to find faults etc anything is worth a try! and by the sounds of things ure got simular problems to what i have atm aswell!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest macabrio Posted July 17, 2009 Share Posted July 17, 2009 (edited) Cheers for taking an interest ! I have been doing some more delving into this and have done this sort of delving before on an Astra GTE , Vectra and Citroen XM ive owned in past ! (works with them too but different wiring) I now have the definative instructions on how you do this because ( like i done before on other cars ) i tracked down the official Draper instructions in a PDF file ! This has concise, easy (ish!) to follow ins and all the 2 and 3 digit codes ! If you like i'll knock up a wiring diag in an art program then i can PM it you along with the Draper PDF ? I will also post the Diagram up here shortly. Hopefully this can become a 'Sticky' for anyone wanting to try this instead of going to the stealers and being charged £££££'s (usually £40-80 ?) !!! Edited July 17, 2009 by macabrio Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Orais Posted July 17, 2009 Share Posted July 17, 2009 yea mate please will be helpful nice one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Orais Posted July 17, 2009 Share Posted July 17, 2009 yea mate please will be helpful nice one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest murcus Posted July 17, 2009 Share Posted July 17, 2009 not entirely sure which model you have efi or mfi, althought the same engine, basically, the electrics a different if its the efi, the first thing i would try is cleaning, or replacing the icv as if the spindle inside breaks, it either over revs, or it doesnt rev atall also i would be checking the inhibitor switch/interia ( what ever its called lol ) as these can be prone to nocking down, my last xr2i had that problem, it was located in passenger footwell, behind but then you would know, as your fuel pump would not be coming on normally for an ecu to blank, there has to be a power surge, or if you conect the wrong wires, and it fryes, but apart from that and filling with water, they are quite bullet proof Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest murcus Posted July 17, 2009 Share Posted July 17, 2009 sorry just read your first post, the car has only been playing up since you ran it very low on fuel? if so, the fuel filter will be blocked, due to the rust etc inside the pump, causing fuel startvation, which could be your problem you normally know when crank sensor is at fault, as the rev counter goes wonky before hand when the icv goes, it ildes and runs erratically on vauxhalls when you disconect the icv the car revs up to 3000rpm, im unsure what happens on fords, as i never tried my 2i, i just replaced the icv hope this helps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Orais Posted July 17, 2009 Share Posted July 17, 2009 i have cleaned the ISCV out and all workin and i replaced it to with one from ady just to be on safe side! I am able to drive the car but had very little go as have feather throttle to get it movin but rarely goes over the 50mph mark like this onli if i get a down hill it will but not even a long run can i get it over 50 and if i change into 3rd or 4th gear i cant get no acceleration from it at all Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest macabrio Posted July 17, 2009 Share Posted July 17, 2009 not entirely sure which model you have efi or mfi, althought the same engine, basically, the electrics a different if its the efi, the first thing i would try is cleaning, or replacing the icv as if the spindle inside breaks, it either over revs, or it doesnt rev atall also i would be checking the inhibitor switch/interia ( what ever its called lol ) as these can be prone to nocking down, my last xr2i had that problem, it was located in passenger footwell, behind but then you would know, as your fuel pump would not be coming on normally for an ecu to blank, there has to be a power surge, or if you conect the wrong wires, and it fryes, but apart from that and filling with water, they are quite bullet proof Yeah mines 90spec EFi ,interesting about the icv spindle ,i'll chack that although it idled fine before this breakdown i had, that's the wierd thing my car was bang on before all this . :icon_cry: BTW forgot 2 say my cut-off fuel switch thingy has been removed ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest macabrio Posted July 17, 2009 Share Posted July 17, 2009 i have cleaned the ISCV out and all workin and i replaced it to with one from ady just to be on safe side! I am able to drive the car but had very little go as have feather throttle to get it movin but rarely goes over the 50mph mark like this onli if i get a down hill it will but not even a long run can i get it over 50 and if i change into 3rd or 4th gear i cant get no acceleration from it at all Yes ,sounds exactly like my prob too however mine cant even do 20mph !! What is your model/car exactly ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest macabrio Posted July 17, 2009 Share Posted July 17, 2009 sorry just read your first post, the car has only been playing up since you ran it very low on fuel? if so, the fuel filter will be blocked, due to the rust etc inside the pump, causing fuel startvation, which could be your problem you normally know when crank sensor is at fault, as the rev counter goes wonky before hand when the icv goes, it ildes and runs erratically on vauxhalls when you disconect the icv the car revs up to 3000rpm, im unsure what happens on fords, as i never tried my 2i, i just replaced the icv hope this helps Yes i was thinkin this too as i have disconnected the filter and the pump is pumpin good however i didnt try it with the filter back on but other end still undone if you know what i mean to see what volume of fuel im getting then cos it may be blocked and coming through poorly at that end, i was only really testing the pump at the time . Also my TPS fault ive been getting could be a red herring after all this as the Draper ins say if you dont disconnect the Octane connector before fault code reading it will come up with code 53 which is TPS low ! :throw: If thats the case (have 2 try tomoz cos shit weather tonite) them afaik i'm getting the 'all clear' code of 11 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Orais Posted July 17, 2009 Share Posted July 17, 2009 lol sounds like ure havin as much fun as what i am! i HAve same car 1990 efi onli changed fuel filter about 2months ago but might change again anyhow might be the problem lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobMk4TwinCarb Posted July 17, 2009 Share Posted July 17, 2009 I know it's obvious but have you made sure it's running on all 4 ? Also making sure the mixture is correct might help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest murcus Posted July 17, 2009 Share Posted July 17, 2009 I know it's obvious but have you made sure it's running on all 4 ? Also making sure the mixture is correct might help. lol, thats what i was about to ask, and if it has oil? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Orais Posted July 17, 2009 Share Posted July 17, 2009 has oil i know for a fact oil topped up before failed MOT and still just under max! how wood u check and make sure it was runnin on all 4 as there is a few ways ive heard but easyest wood be nicest! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobMk4TwinCarb Posted July 17, 2009 Share Posted July 17, 2009 has oil i know for a fact oil topped up before failed MOT and still just under max! how wood u check and make sure it was runnin on all 4 as there is a few ways ive heard but easyest wood be nicest! Wasn't aiming that at you mate, this isn't your thread. To answer your question anyway you take off a HT lead 1 at a time then put it back on and do the next(while its running), if you take 1 off and the engine doesn't get worse and/or conk out that cylinder is doing nothing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest macabrio Posted July 17, 2009 Share Posted July 17, 2009 has oil i know for a fact oil topped up before failed MOT and still just under max! how wood u check and make sure it was runnin on all 4 as there is a few ways ive heard but easyest wood be nicest! Mine sounds like a Scooby if i pull one of the HT leads an make it go on 3 pots Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest macabrio Posted July 17, 2009 Share Posted July 17, 2009 I know it's obvious but have you made sure it's running on all 4 ? Also making sure the mixture is correct might help. I told u the car was bang on before this and obviously i checked the obvious stuff like that , i can get the car upto 6000 rpms with a bit of coaxing so nowt wrong there its if your floor it theres no power . Have you read the entire post. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest macabrio Posted July 17, 2009 Share Posted July 17, 2009 Here's a diagram i just knocked up that i promised and here's a link to the Draper fault code reader ins , http://www.drapertools-online.com/products...ls/68082ins.pdf DISCLOSURE. I WILL NOT BE HELD RESPONSIBLE FOR BLOWN ECU'S :teu26: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobMk4TwinCarb Posted July 17, 2009 Share Posted July 17, 2009 (edited) I told u the car was bang on before this and obviously i checked the obvious stuff like that , i can get the car upto 6000 rpms with a bit of coaxing so nowt wrong there its if your floor it theres no power .Have you read the entire post. Yea I did read it.. it might of been something in one of the cylinder's gone when it conked out on you was why I mentioned it. Also you said it smelt rich so checking the mixture would be something to try. Another obvious thing but have you made sure the timing is still good ? Could of slipped when you broke down before. Big thanks for the code reader diag's sure it will help :icon_salut_gb: Edited July 17, 2009 by RobMk4TwinCarb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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