Himanshu

Don't think we get Zaino here in UK, however do try the rain dance, it is on ebay.com. It is cheap but very good, a bit of a pig to take off but beads water superbly.

As in line with my recent post in best penetrant spray, I have combined in my own experience the best wax, beleive you me I have had and od have some Starting with the best:- Rain Dance (by DuPont) undoubtedly the winner, obsolete but occasionally comes up on ebay (t has to be the Dupont version other versions by Cyclo Industries etc are rubbish). (this stuff is so smooth the cat next door slide of the bonnet. Opti seal (more of a sealant than a wax. This stuff sheets water, but your bas prep and paint has to be clean and claying) Auto Glym HD wax Bilt Hamber finis wax Bilt Hamber Ultra HD Wax (you can't go wrong with the any Bilt Hamber stuff) Carplan Nano tech (yes Car Plan) Amorall Zymol (smells gorgeous too) Autoglym followed with the Gloss Extra protectant Sealer Blue Coral Turtle Wax Hi Gloss Meguiar's NXT Generation Wax. Poor Boys Wax (good on black cars) There are other waxes, which are over the £50 mark which I havent tested like Swiss Wax, Zymol Concours, but these are some I have tested. One of the favs for a white car was Simoniz Liquid Diamond, however that is not available anymore, but one hears good reviews from the recent Simoniz range.

I think I have spent a small fortune I now have more cans of releasing fluid than perfume, and believe you me I think I just about every perfume under the sun I have a room dedicated just to them. Anyhow, having recently been blighted with rusted on nuts and bolts, I have in order placed what I think is the best penetrants available in the U.K. In the good ol USA the number ones are PB Rust buster, Kroil and Liquid Wrench. Unfortunately we do not access to this so here goes. 1. BG In Force Penetrating Oil £15 (Expensive and availability poor, ebay or Power enhancer. (this one foams, so sticks better and creep is far better than most) but costy, very costy. 2. Loctite Freeze and Shock Release about £6 (Very hard to Source internet only I think now), 3.Bilt Hamber Ferrosol (this actually smells beautiful) I might place it in my perfume collection. £7 (bilhamber.com) 4. Rost off, and Rost of Ice by Wurth £8 (ebay) 5 Plus Gas £7 400ml getting hard to get hold of now. 6 3 in 1 Specialist Release Agent spray £8 7. WD40 Fast Release Penetrant. (not to be confused with ordinary WD40) £8 440ml 8. Gunk Liquid Wench (not to be confused with the far superior American product) £6 250ml 9. Lidl (yes Lidl maintenance spray) £4 ( this stuff is sold out almost as soon as they get it! 10 WD40 Blue Works Specialist (ebay) £8 11 WD40 ordinary £4. (this is a great cleaner, and degreaser, but alas no more than that! Plus point is everywhere has it. The best stuff I have seen advocated on the net is a mixture of 50% acetone and 50% ATF fluid. However acetone attacks plastic. so a brush on method or a oil dispenser, which you will have to throw away, as most plastic or rubber parts. The above list is for places you can't use heat. There is a tool out there called a induction device. However not commonly available in the U.K. I think Ed Chinna uses it in one of the wheeler Dealer episodes. As for keeping rust off and at bay, The nominees are, Dinitrol Wax coat Waxoyl The winner Bilt Hamber Wax Oyl. If you want to get rust off, if you have the part off, soak it in white vinegar, or Apple cider vinegar is better as it has a better pH value to attack rust.

I had this problem and the AA guy sat there basically rocking the bonnet up and down and it suddenly popped up!

MK3 1600i 1985 cab. O.K so I was trying to get the fuel pump cradle, off, to refurb or update it to a new one since it is heavily corroded. and both bolts, will turn, but not loosen or tighten, it seems the captive nuts, have rusted and loose in the box section and one under the wheel arch, so when I turned the one bolt and one nut, the captive fasteners broke. I am in a bit of a to do, as I can't use heat, or any thing that might cause a spark due to the close proximity of the fuel tank, fuel line. I thought of taking the fuel tank of, but all the fasteners, and jubilee clips are rusted solid for that too. Parts are no longer available for this, so in a quandary of wot to do, I will never be able to get the petrol tank pipes, and having tried to loosen the hoses supplying the fuel tanks have now got a real whiff of petrol coming now. Anyone had or suggest anything? I need Edd China, My aunt from Kiwi land called my Ford, Fix, Or Repair Daily, and I am thinking she knew something! With what parts available on eBay fetching Ferrari prices, I am thinking time to call it a day on the cab.

Thanks all, I will try the anti roll bar first , But I think its off by more than an inch, if not will look at top of the rubber mounts.

I have a condition called set back, where one of the front wheels (the drivers is set back), hence the term set back. I have tried new track control arms, (original Ford) does any body know who or how to cure this? Many thanks in advance. Car Mk3 Ford Escort Cabriolet MFi

This is most likely to an earth (ground) fault. Get a competent auto electrician they usually charge £50 p/hr. but it might be £50 well spent. These cars had a history of poor earthing problems.

I had this problem, I took the tank out and examined, it, the petrol pick up pipe was probably soldered/brazed, what have you, at the wrong angle so anything less than a 1/3rd full of petrol going around roundabouts, sharp right hand turns it would stall. I got a second hand tank and never ever had the problem ever again. I had tried everything and it was a manufacturing fault. However by the time I had got my hands on it and two years of investigative work Ford didn't want to know! The car was about 5 years old. But the warranty only applied to the original owner they told me and after this length of time I got to talk to the hand!

Had this happen to me, admittedly not at this speed. I required two pistons, and 4 valves. Stripping the head is not hard, whilst you have it off, its a great ideal to fully decoke the head. I gas flowed mine, and placed hardened valve seats as at the time leaded fuel was becoming obsolete. I think it cost me in 1993 about £500 for two pistons, have the seats and guides replaced and new valves. I did another strip and build in 2005 and at that time it cost me £300 with gaskets and getting the head skimmed, and cleaned. If you do the job well worth inspecting the bores, and taking the bottom of the sump off, removing the end caps and replacing the bearings, and thrust washers. You can push the pistons out once the end caps are off (remember and make a note of what goes where in relation to the engine).However it is a pig of a job as the sumo gasket will have to be fitted bob on, (technical term that), Make sure its an original Ford Gasket, as I had three attempts at it and finally a ford Gasket not cheap as it was £24+VAT (then), compared to FIA, at about £8. however from the time and motion study get it right first time, as you will need to remove the exhaust down pipe, and its a bugger cleaning off the mating faces of the gasket. Whilst I had the sump off, I decided to give it a through clean and had it shot blast and powder coated. I also found a pair of old collets someone who must have dropped whilst replacing the valve stem oil seals dropped I the engine. Parts are getting rare and far and few between for this engine. But as stated by others the first port of call is take the head off, and inspect the damage. Even if you get a second hand engine your going to have to check it, and change all the gaskets.

Got the valuation which is good for 1 year, (sounds like Lancaster want to charge me every year for a valuation business must be bad.) they valued it at £4500, however because of the increase in the value, form £1000 that the RAC valued it in 2001 the premium has gone up to £160. limited to £1000 miles p/a.Hope this helps anyone else.

I had the same problem, I replaced the battery, the alternator, checked all the grounds, but traced the fault back to the printed circuit of the back of the instrument panel.

I was quoted £123 but strict 1000, miles, garaged, etc etc. However a low insurance premium is no good, if the valuation is unrealistic, these cars, are far and few between and getting rarer by the day,

I have been searching for a person to give me a second, opinion, well valuation, for the classic car insurance agreed valuation. The people Lancaster use only value my 1985 Mk3 All-White-I cab at £1000. Its absolutely stunning condition. If any one could help with details for people who might be able to value it with certificate of current vlaue I would appreciate it.

looks like your clutch is knackered

How do you bleed it, would be most appreciated if you could explain? Have got a kit to fit from an auction site and have got to fit it, 5years later to manual hood and convert. Any tips greatly appreciated.

After several attempts, they finally sprayed it smooth, it should be a slight stone chip effcet well that has gone now, also just above the cut ot of the exhaust they have cracked that, broken the clips that the end caps fit on, lost the washers and did not use any, just tightened the nuts on,deforming the back panel with a 13mm bi hex, and 1/2 inch so have rounded them off! They broke one of the end clips on the bumper end clip and left white paint on the underside of the car! I got a phone call from the CEOs office and spoke to a Natasha Bennet, who told me the case was closed! So much for Ford, I took a similar company a few years ago this was bout 10 years ago who stripped the bolts that held the wheels on, Walkers Tyres, what a buch of cowboys, They just placed the nut into the air toll and did not even by hand start the nut off,and the first question the Juge, a Judge Merriman asked was how old was your car?He did not want to know it has only coverec 50kand had only one pair of tyres replaced at Ford no enginnerring background, he said I cant belive that no damage hadnt resulted in all those years. The twit Judge who does martimonial law, obviously doesnt know a good screw! He dismissed the case on the age of the car and I had to pay all costs, I asked him what would you do if a Buggatti or fine vintage spitfire from a muesuem had been damaged? He didnt say f all! Obviously him and Walkers tyres were all free Masons.looking after each other. Another example of British Stupidty at the middle and higer classes who dont know anything about anything. I would never buy a ford again. As much as people love thier Fords, you have to ask pertainenat qustions when they do not think the customer (thats why they are in bizz) in the first place is treated with no repect. You have to say the Germans and Japs pride themselves on customer service and finish. Thw Yanks and Brits may have won the war but not the minds and hearts of the customers wth there poorly built cars and even worse workmaship attitude! Shame on Ford! Hail Germany and Japan.

Well after writing and posting here, and advising Ford UK CEO, the car is to be redone, 7th attempt, and a courtouesy car provided! Will post back if all else fails contact the CEO, and post to forums, at least they get up and take note!

After much a ado I have replaced, discs, pads, rear drums, whell cylinders, and rear shoes, the system has been bled extensively, I had a a second hand (claimed to be fully working servo, and master cylinder) replaced, yet the car just wont stop. So I was watching Edd China, on Wheeler dealers, and he pointed to the Master cylinder. Write so new Master cylinder placed, unfortunately there are 21 mm, 22mm and 23 mm , because I had mine swapped I did not know which one so opted for the 22mm. The brakes have improved by 80%,yet still not able to lock the wheels even on MOT test It doesnt have anti lock brakes, does any one know what the proper master cylinder bore should be, Is there any modification that I can do. The car is a 1985 All white I MK3 Escort Cabby. ANy help anyone could give would be appreaciated.

Thanks Allanman, I had a VW Golf GTI, convertible and stupidly housed the Ford Escort All White I SE.Instead of the Golf. I was involved in a RTA, which meant I spent 9 months in hospital. The Escort Cabby being garaged was secure, but the brakes were seized, the VW mechanically still ran! It just had a slashed roof, and paint work keyed and scratched. I had the local VW, attempt to sort it out new roof, new respray and they couldnt get it right, even after 3 attempts. So I contacted VW H.Q and they came a took the car away, it came back with a new roof, full respray, service, and valet, the MD came to deliver it with a bouquet of flowers, and champagne, and asked me to inspect it, if I was unhappy they would do it again. It was faultless. They waived the fee and even gave me 50% off all future services on the car. Now we and the AMericans ma have won the battle of Britain but the Germand won my heart and future bizz. I know have just purchased a new GTI Golf and whilst the main dealer is resonable the MD of VW said if you have any trouble get in touch with me, and I will get it sorted. Whereas Ford even at CEO level treat me (I couldnt possibly say on this forum). The MD of VW looked at my Ford Cabby and said this was the car that stole a lot of buisness from us, he was hurt I housed and thought more of FOrd, but said to me you will find the VW will go on, and the FOrd would have rusted if left in the open. He was very prophetic! FORD, Fix Or Rent Daily!

Get Irwin bolt extractor

Check the A pillar, and inner wings, scuttle panels,

I think that people are missing the point here, whilst the body shop in question amy be inept, it is the response of FORD (UK), basically go talk to the hand we dont care! Compare and contrast this with Japanese, or German service.First rate and caring. Ford should intervene and thier franchises offer a level of competance and should be the best, not oh your car is too old so now take a long walk off a short pier! Why reward Ford or even be proud to preserve a Ford, when they cant give a monkies and treat the customers with even less gratitude! I think all Ford members should complain after all you dont know when it will happen to you!

During the snows of 2010 I had an incident which led to both parties being held liabel, I made no claim. However it ended up on the database. I declared the incident to Lancaster who I have been with for several years. I have a full no claims bonus, the car only does 1000miles (all white i cabby) which I have owned since 1990. Following the incident where I made no claim, I renewed the Insurance, with Lancaster and paid £126 and £146 the next year. This years renewal I was quoted £1332! It was the second accident I have ever had in 27 years of driving, the other was in 2000 and again I made no claim. This is just a ruse to extort money from people. Anyone point me to a good classic car insurance company? On line comparrison sites are useless as they quote a price of about £140 then when you ring them up this escalates due to the fact I had an incident. Many thanks people any others in this situation? Imagine if I had a Lambo or Ferrari and was under 25? I mean this is only a FOrd Escort Cabby with agreed value of £2500.