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Escort Cabriolet Club

Himanshu

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Everything posted by Himanshu

  1. Check temperature sender or wire break.
  2. I am in the exact dilemma to you. I want to keep it original as possible. but the vinyl roof is the thing I am struggling with. I really want a mohair roof which is superior so I may go with a coloured roof! The white mohair roof I am told is not manufactured! I am also thinking should I put a power roof in or leave it as factory standard. I just know that there will be issues insourcing parts should I go down the electric, roof lane! I had to pay £150 for an electronic dipstick. I am paying Ferrari Prices for a Ford!
  3. It would be great if members could upload tutorials, and tips on a platform like Youtube. From roofs, power hood conversion, common DIY like brakes, suspensions, and mods!. Shame these cars don't have a lot the mechanics left anymore. I went into one so-called franchise, and the YTS kid was asking me if I knew where to plug the OBD scanner. I said cheque please and left!
  4. OK, so an update I managed to get a hold of a 5L can of Kano Labs Aerokroil. It cost £35 shipping £55 and HMRC charged £40 for import and VAT duties, (thieves)! Parcel force held up the shipment for 3 weeks. It took 2 days for the USA end to send it and took 3 weeks from Stanstead Airport to Coventry Customs! But this is by far the best read made stuff! I did email a company in the USA called Maltby Chemicals who produce but they couldn't even be bothered to reply!
  5. The seals in the master cylinder are the culprit I suspect. These give the age of the car and especially if you have bought a second hand one, The rubber perishes over time. Many times a refurbished master cylinders are very poorly built. Unfortunately do the age and Ford not manufacturing these, a refurbed on or second hand one is the only way, but just put new seals in. On average you will probably have to change the seals bi-annually. The same as manual power steering racks. My old rack covered 100k, lasted 25 years. I bought reconditioned racks only to have it fail ever two years. Somethings you have to throw money at. Unfortunately it is getting to the point you cant even throw money at these parts as Ford simply don't make them. I have purchased from Kelly Bray and Burton Power and unfortunately the new replacements don't fit or a tonne of work need to be done to modify it to ge it to fit, or they are so poorly refurbished that they last a minimal period. The labour costs out weigh the price of the components
  6. Take the Glove box lid off, and get a Lock smith to make you a key. It is costy about £60
  7. I have done this job so many times, It is back breaking and a real chore of a job, just pay some garage its well worth the money and then some. I took the seat out as well however you got to be slim, trim and agile which I aint no more. The last time I did this job it took me 6 hours, and then the spring clip pinged out and the whole assembly came off, lucky there were no cars, I had no brakes, no clutch pedal. I banked it on a round about got the RAC to tow it to the garage, and they alleged they had done the job and the same thing happened to me on the way back. I was lucky then as just as I got off the motorway and came home the whole assembly came off. I had to sue the RAC and Garage in the end, but it took 8 months of legal work! When you do fit a rathet and pawl make sure it is a genuine Ford part. other ratchets just fail or will be noisy and notchey. My uncle who was the Workshop manager said this was the worst job and they used to give it to the youngest and most agile mechanic and bought him a round of drinks all night long for doing it! I know I was that mechanic. I would rather fit a new hood, or take out the engine and gearbox then do this job!
  8. I got a SAAB aerial I think of a 93 and its is super silent, and works great.
  9. Spray Oxyclean on the roof at the correct ratio (stated on the tub). and rinse thoroughly. Then apply a good protectrant to it.
  10. I bought this and it did stain some area, of my white paint work.
  11. I went through 3 years trying to address this issue. To be honest Ford Escorts had really poor barkes. I changed 3 servos, went through the who polava you wnet new disc, drums, pads, shoes, numerous brake bleeding and it was the master cylinder. I did swap one for another but this was faulty, given the age of these cars rubbers perish, you may also get the rubber hose connections replaced too they often bulge with age. Dont get the kit for the master cylinder replacement these are useless. Try and get the whole master cylinder NEW if possible. although parts for this car are rare as hens teeth and you are paying Rolls Royce prices for a a Ford.
  12. I have owned several cabriolets, and numerous Fords, I found the ones made in England all were really poorly built and were rust buckets. The few Fords, that were made in Germany were far better built, the three of them I have kept have after 30 years have little rust. The Fords made in UK were like Edam cheese, after only 3-4 years. The Mk4 and Mk 5 in particular especially made in England, were made of really poor steel I was told by a geezer well into Fords at the Ford shows. My own experience does relay this. My own first cabby is made in Germany and I have to say it is devoid of any rust except the two areas which these cars suffered rust from where the wings attach to front panel. My other Fords, all had rust in the Bonnet hinge and rear wheel areas.
  13. I think the resistor is incorporated in the heat blower unit. I am guessing here, I was able to buy the whole unit for £10 from a breakers yard. I had previously been sold a MK 4 unit which can be utilized but you will have to do a bit of modification to it. The MK4 unit is a tad smaller and the blow hole apertures bigger so I just sealed it with foam and I think I used a penny washer to secure the unit which is smaller. It worked for 10 years, and then I decided to get a proper MK5 unit. So do beware that unscrupulous breakers will palm you off with a Mk 3 or Mk 4 unit for a Mk5 unit and then will not entertain you with a refund. Whilst arguing the MK5 unit the breakers stole my radio and rear Pioneer speakers which 10 years were expensive and sought after. I have always found breakers yards to unscrupulous no ethics at all. Sorry about the rant.
  14. I contacted Eurocar parts, late in 2012 and the fuel tank is not available and nearly all parts, bar, the regular service items are not available a MK3 escort, or injection. I have just asked again and they still did not carry the item or could not source it. I bought one from eBay for £120.
  15. Rover handles are the same, as Ginger Boy rightly pointed out.
  16. I think the timing is 6 degrees for unleaded heads, running on unleaded fuel. Their is a website which tells you from the cast code if the Engine has hardened seats. I bought three heads, alleged to be able to run on unleaded set with the correct timing for that head. They all after about 12K showed valve seat damage. I got sick of this, gave one of the so called head into a local company who replaced the valve seats to accept unleaded, and no valve issue has manifested after a decade. Just get your head done. That way you know for sure. There is a lot of he says she say on the head topic. I incidentally in all my heads used unleaded additive, and the super plus, higher RON fuel but it didn't help. I remember these cars ran so well with lead in the petrol. Dont ever buy that stupid put in the tank or in line fuel catalyst called Spitfire. Total waste of time. I think 1985 cast heads and on wards were alleged to be able to take unleaded. Mine was a 1985 head. It suffered from the use of unleaded, even with advance timing and lead petrol, additive, and using a higher RON fuel. get the valve done whilst your doing it.
  17. Why don't you have a tutorial and YouTube them like VW owners, especially if anyone can do general what to buy for when buying a cabby roof removal installation in detail and video. Service Guide General maintenance videos on all matters. Electrification of Manual hood to power. Where to look for a good hood. Service and garages who have technicians who are competent in servicing an Escort cabriolets and trimming and all things related. I went to a place and the guy who wasn't older than my oil change where is the OBD port on my car, needless to say I did a Homer when he forgot Marge's birthday and sped off out.
  18. It depends on the level of trim, (spec of your car) Generally a 2 door Escort from the same year, the door cards, seats front will fit, from any 2 door Escort of the same year. Your problems will come with the parts after the anti roll bar. The rear door cards, windows, even the rear seats I think they are one piece and not two piece split. I was able to change all the front, from a XR3i door cards, seats, but the rear was an issue. Hope this helps.
  19. Strange mine runs best on NGK plugs. Tried all sorts, from Bosch, Motorcraft and Spitfire, and Champion, NGK were the damn tickety! Even looking at the colour the NGK are well suited and never missed a beat.
  20. Leave it standard. Insurance companies hate mods like this. You will find a really steep premium and some will flatly refuse to insure you.
  21. I believe they are there for the tonneau cover and not SM fetish as posted by some.
  22. 1st option is to use left handed drill to try and drill it out, or ez out, however this is a hit and miss approach, the other thing is too take the cylinder head off, take it to an engineering shop to try and drill it out and re tap it or else helicoil it. If you are taking the cylinder head off, you can decard the head, port it gas flow it, and lap in the valves, if the head is not designed for unleaded. you can inspect the bores. If they are worn, you need just to take the sump of, and take the pistons out and put over size rings, and re hone the walls, providing the measurements leet you. If you don't fancy that, just drill it out, and use a drill and tap to go up a fastener. The head is ally and reasonably easy to tap providing you ge the position of the bolt stuck in out. I have done the same myself, and I just took the head off, a 2 hour job, changed the timing belt, decarbed the head, took the sump off, re ringed it, got a locale engineering shop to skim and place new valve guides and hardened valve seats inside it. Whilst there I replaced the camshaft , camshaft seal, this ended up costing me £500. But the Engine covered another 100K and ran sweet as! If you do decide on the cheaper fix, of drilling out, get Loctite Shock unlock and spray into the fastener. I some times having followed the instruction on this, and run a left handed drill the fastener has come out, without any damage to the threads.
  23. Please let me know how you go on. I would recommend Car Hoods Northern but they are a bit far.
  24. That charge rate is too high. about 13.5v -14.5 v is acceptable.
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