Guest Paul g Posted July 6, 2012 Share Posted July 6, 2012 hi there can anyone help on rewire from fuel pump relay to the fuel pump, have hard wired to test pump and works fine, can hear relay kick in but then thats it so im thinking wiring from relay to pump. regards paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest oapracer Posted July 23, 2012 Share Posted July 23, 2012 rewireing wont help.you need a new relay.I had the same fault,and found a serviceable relay from breakers yard. If you have an electronics genius friend with old transisters its fixable.some info on temp fix on volvo website, 460 ? i think. oapracer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest oapracer Posted July 24, 2012 Share Posted July 24, 2012 been going thru my notes-- just incase your car has had an imobiliser removed-- check for 12v on pin 15 when turning the engine over. a link between 15 & 87 thru a 10A fuse should run the pump. With the fuel relay out. oapracer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Lee81 Posted July 24, 2012 Share Posted July 24, 2012 He needs to rewire. Have gone through this a few weeks back. Someone has taken the original relay out and put a an aftermarket one in place. Theres no aftermarket one available that will function correctly unless the existing wiring is altered. Hence the need for a rewire to make the ford relay work correctly that hes now got hold of. Essentially all you need is to make sure you have a positive12v supply, negative earth and the switching output at or around the relay position. You'll need a haynes manual to show you which should be at what pin on the relay holder. its writen on the relay as a number. The wiring scematics will show the colour wire and number pin. This is essential as this is likly to be where alterations have been made. Once that is done you need a multi meter to check resistance on the wiring that comes from the fuel pump to the relay. Check negative and positive. It should be very low resistance. If this is not the case fit new wiring. Suitable 20amp cable should suffice and should be fed from the relay along the drivers side sill under the plastic caping behind the passenger side door trim and then under the rear seat or into the boot area and out to below to connect to the pump. 20amp is overkill but it will mean you'll have a good voltage and current at the pump that wont ever need to be replaced. If you do have an immobiliser dont connect it in this wiring instead connect it in the switched supply to the relay. So many cars have it fitted in the main supply and they eventually burn out and over time will cause you engine to run lean which will kill engines Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest oapracer Posted July 25, 2012 Share Posted July 25, 2012 upps had a senior momment,red pin30 linked to red/blk pin 87 will prove pump wire. However,as you've been advised to rewire, remember the only reason for this relay is to stop the fuel pump running in the event of a crash plus broken fuel line. Iv'e yet to find a solution to the 0.6V pulse from the coil 12V+ except Dont Crash. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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