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How Do You Check A "crankshaft Sensor"?


Guest Rustler
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Guest Rustler

Hi Guys....

 

Can any one give me a clue on how to test a "Crankshaft Sensor" ?

 

We have just fitted new belts ,tensioners,water pump,etc as well as a complete set ofbrake discs ,pads and "HELL" hoses,the car has been

 

laid up with battery removed (on charge) for about 8mths....... The ignition and all electrics appear to function normally........the

 

engine cranks over well and fast but "No Visable Spark" at plugs on either side of coil (plug body to earth) ..We have 12v to cent' pin

 

of coil jackplug ,and both coils seem to have the correct resistance on the multimeter. We also have continuity to and from the "EDIS MODULE"

 

Our problem "SEEMS" to point to the CRANK SENSOR, but don't know how to test it. We think that if this sensor is/has failed then its possible

 

that the timing/firing signal will be lost,thereby "NO Spark"........ Does this theory hold ? or are we barking up the wrong tree again??

 

.......................1992 1.8cc,XR3i,130ps RQB Zetec "Silver Top" Cabbie , with 43K clocked.............................

 

..................................Thanks in Advance..Rustler.. "The Oldest Cabbier" ..................................

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Guest gavintwopies

The easiest way to check a crank sensor is to get an old iso plug with a few tail wires then plug that on to the CPS then get someone to crank the engine over while checking the voltage output across the wires with a multimeter as with the sensor using the hall effect the sensor will gwenerate a 1.5-2.5 volt current depending on how fast the engine is turning over if you are getting nothing then it could be either a faulty sensor or the flywheel does not have the 36-1 hole PCD on the back (a cvh one).

 

hope this helps???

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Guest gavintwopies

The easiest way to check a crank sensor is to get an old iso plug with a few tail wires then plug that on to the CPS then get someone to crank the engine over while checking the voltage output across the wires with a multimeter as with the sensor using the hall effect the sensor will gwenerate a 1.5-2.5 volt current depending on how fast the engine is turning over if you are getting nothing then it could be either a faulty sensor or the flywheel does not have the 36-1 hole PCD on the back (a cvh one).

 

hope this helps???

 

 

sorry that should have said but it wont let me edit my text.....

 

The easiest way to check a crank sensor is to get an old iso plug with a few tail wires then plug that on to the CPS then get someone to crank the engine over while checking the voltage output across the wires with a multimeter as with the sensor using the hall effect the sensor will gwenerate a 1.5-2.5 volt current depending on how fast the engine is turning over if you are getting nothing then it could be either a faulty sensor or the flywheel does not have the 36-1 hole PCD on the back (a cvh one).

 

Also dont forget to check that the edis is getting a 12v live feed or that its earthed as if it aint switched on you aint going to get squat as i have found in the past the CPS wires inside the edis 4 plug can corrode and not pass the signal thro from the wire to the pin on the inside of the plug jiggle each wire individually and see if it snaps, i did this then had to strip back the wire and re crimp it to the old terminal connector within the edis4 plug, or failing that get another from a scrappy and resolder it on to get it to work.

 

hope this helps?

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Guest Rustler

Thanks M8

 

 

 

Can't bring to mind what an iso plug is.......must be getting to old and passed it,will have to buy me a 2spd Zimmer Frame!!!

 

Regards Rustler..........."The Olest Cabbier".........

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Guest gavintwopies

Thanks M8

 

 

 

Can't bring to mind what an iso plug is.......must be getting to old and passed it,will have to buy me a 2spd Zimmer Frame!!!

 

Regards Rustler..........."The Olest Cabbier".........

 

Sorry thats just me being an arse again LOL, an iso plug is the 2 pin plug thats fits on almost everyhting that has 2 pins on it under yhe bonnet, ie injectors, crank sensor , camshaft sensor, side repaeter indicators, etc etc just go snip one of them plugs off a car from a scrap yard and use that, as above plug it on use a multimeter and see 1.5-2.5 volts if its reading -1.5 to -2.5 volts then you have the multimeter on the wrong way as the sensor is polarised and only gives off voltage as DC bit like a car battery does.

 

Hope this helps, and is a little clearer???

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Guest Rustler

Sorry thats just me being an arse again LOL, an iso plug is the 2 pin plug thats fits on almost everyhting that has 2 pins on it under yhe bonnet, ie injectors, crank sensor , camshaft sensor, side repaeter indicators, etc etc just go snip one of them plugs off a car from a scrap yard and use that, as above plug it on use a multimeter and see 1.5-2.5 volts if its reading -1.5 to -2.5 volts then you have the multimeter on the wrong way as the sensor is polarised and only gives off voltage as DC bit like a car battery does.

 

Hope this helps, and is a little clearer???

 

 

Thanks...that's crystal clears now....Have just made up a couple of ultra fine prongs,in lieu of an"ISO" to adapt the "M"meter,

cranked over a # of times,but no volts indicated what so ever,double checked the "M"meter connections and all fine...so must be

a major prob with the "CPS", (or wire to CPS) ......will investigate further on Monday... :rolleyes:

 

Thanks Again.......Rustler.......

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Guest gavintwopies

I take it you have had this running before? as i bought a non runner efi cab last year only to find out it had a MFI flywheel on it hence no trigger setup on the back of the fly for the sensor to pick up on it, just a thought.

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Guest Rustler

I take it you have had this running before? as i bought a non runner efi cab last year only to find out it had a MFI flywheel on it hence no trigger setup on the back of the fly for the sensor to pick up on it, just a thought.

 

 

Yeah,,Yeah.... had the cabby for 2yrs,ran perfectly ,except for a leaky waterpump,and cracked belts etc.....Laid her up last October with battery out and

on trickle charge....then completed the work on the above jobs last week..Only to find she wouldn't fire......

...Anyway have now checked the voltage at the jack plug, whilst cranking....NIL VOLTS, and also NIL RESISTANCE between the two pins

leading to CPS. so must be either no continuity ,damaged wire ,or knackered CPS.. Will investigate further on Monday..

Will report on progress.............Thanks again Rustler "The Oldest Cabbier"

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