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Mk4 1.6 Efi Engine Compressions


Guest suffolk04
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Guest suffolk04

Did a engine compression test today to figure out whats causing my misfire at idle only.

Heres what i got:

Cylinder 1= 135psi

Cylinder 2= 150psi

Cylinder 3= 140psi

Cylinder 4= 150psi

 

The problem is with cylinder 1, but anyone know what the original compressions should be? Had a look in the haynes manual, but can't find them.

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they aint that bad i would not worry about em anything below 100 is when its time to pull engine out and rebuild you checked inlet manifold for vacum leak as thats could cause missfire at low revs as screw the mixture up.

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Guest suffolk04

yeh everything else is fine, its not that bad, you can just feel it when the car is idle, running rough/lumpy. but it's fine when driving to narrowed it down to cylinder/valves.

Cars done 145000 miles, so moon and back :icon_salut_gb: doubt its ever been stripped

was just trying to compare the compressions to a new engine, can't seem to find anything though :sad: anyone know??

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Guest suffolk04

had a look through a friends mk5 haynes manual, compression ratio a bit different(mk4 9.5.1)-(Mk5 9.75.1) both 1.6 cvh engines and the compressions should be around 175-205psi.

 

gunna leave it for now, but definitely going to buy the newer haynes manual, mines abit dated now(old purple version)

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I would try and find a local engine recon firm as i would think you could get it all done for 600 notes i know of one in birmingham they call them selfes blue star and did good work or if youre south coast try tik engineering they are good.hope that helps.

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Guest suffolk04

i know theres a place in nottingham (my town), that do headgaskets,skimming and the rest of the work to the cylinder head, so might be worth giving them ago i suppose.

Their called R.B lindley's and son, anyone from the midlands area used them, or know anyone who used them?

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Guest tacha_maree

if your not modifying the engine its fairly easyto do yourself, im rebuilding a cossie engine atm.

 

just make sure you have a workshop manual so you get you tolerances and torque setting right.

 

the replacement parts are cheapish...

 

you only need a torque wrench basic socket set, piston ring compressor and a magnetic screwdriver for the collets... obviously get the head machined professionally but isnt difficult to do.

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