1990 Mk4 Xr3I Efi Low Oil Pressure Help Please!

[Guest spaceman]

Since using oil flush & changing sump gasket on my 1990 XR3i EFI the car rattles like mad on start up and oil pressure light stays on until the engine is reved a couple of times.After about 30secs-1min it sounds alright. After a run & Left again for 10mins before restart oil light stays on after start up again for a few seconds. Pressure is about 30psi@1000rpm and 60psi max at approx 3000rpm from cold and was staying around the 25-30psi warm but coming down motorway tonight was only showing about 15-20psi at 60-70mph and oil pressure light flicked on once coming off sliproad up an incline!

Has brand new 10-40 oil, level is fine but not sure on pressure gauge accuracy as 5yrs old but like I say has sounded terrible on startup since the engine flush & new sump gasket-was fine before I touched it which leads me to believe it is oil starvation.

Fitted recon block & new non Ford oil pump 2yrs ago with new lifters and cam was fine.

I did take the oil pickup off to clean it during sump gasket change, is it possible to put it on wrong?Is there a way to find & clear a blocked oil gallery?

Anyone got any ideas before I tear the engine out?

[Guest mossop1]

Im sure the oil pick up can only go on one way as sump has a bafle in it and would not fit if pick up wrong and with the presures i would go for oil pump but would sujest not running for any lenght of time as you may do proper damage if it has not already done some as with the niose is it top end niose ie lifter reattle or bottom end know like shells as duff shells would give you bad oil presure hope that help and if i can be any further help dont hesitate to holla good luck hope you sort it soon.

[Guest spaceman]

Im sure the oil pick up can only go on one way as sump has a bafle in it and would not fit if pick up wrong and with the presures i would go for oil pump but would sujest not running for any lenght of time as you may do proper damage if it has not already done some as with the niose is it top end niose ie lifter reattle or bottom end know like shells as duff shells would give you bad oil presure hope that help and if i can be any further help dont hesitate to holla good luck hope you sort it soon.

To be honest defo top end noise but do sometimes hear a slight knock maybe from bottom end but like I say all noises do stop after about 30secs once the engine is reved and was all fine before I did engine flush & oil change/sump gasket.Maybe I should drop sump first and check that gasket is alright between oil pump & pickup pipe and check that the strainer is clear. While the sump is off how can I tell if shells are worn?

[Guest mossop1]

top end niose is like you say low oil presure and thinking if the shells were bad you hear all the time im just playing with a prob i had a customers car after doing simaler job and it was shit stuck in the release valve in the oil pump but honestly if i had to gues for prob cause i go would go oil pump but yes check the strainer and while thier pop the caps off the con rods and in side you will find the shell it should look nice and evenly worn with a very thin coating of soft metal if its worn threw that to the steel casing then they are as we say shot also i take it you have gauge inside car to get reading for oil presure?

[Guest mossop1]

must also add that keep the caps and shels in order ie number one cap and shell must go back in same place as the wear to that part of crank and dont like being mixed up.

[Guest spaceman]

Thanks for the help mate, I will look over the weekend and let you know.

[Guest murcus]

could be a faulty sensor,

 

when you flushed, did you keep the old oil in when you flushed or did you drain oil and fill with flushing agent, or did you use a thinner oil to flush?

 

the reason i ask, is that most flushing agents are crap, and block all the oil gally's and the lifters

 

drop the oil, again, in to a clean basin, run to asda, and buy there cheap 5l for around 5-6 pounds, throw this in,

let it idle for around 1 min, then rev to arounf 2500-3000rpm,

for about 5 mins,

 

then drop the oil, and put your old stuff back in

 

this should unblock all your lifters , and oil ways , and flush out all the agent

[Guest spaceman]

could be a faulty sensor,

 

when you flushed, did you keep the old oil in when you flushed or did you drain oil and fill with flushing agent, or did you use a thinner oil to flush?

 

the reason i ask, is that most flushing agents are crap, and block all the oil gally's and the lifters

 

drop the oil, again, in to a clean basin, run to asda, and buy there cheap 5l for around 5-6 pounds, throw this in,

let it idle for around 1 min, then rev to arounf 2500-3000rpm,

for about 5 mins,

 

then drop the oil, and put your old stuff back in

 

this should unblock all your lifters , and oil ways , and flush out all the agent

Thanks Murcus, I will try that!

[Guest mossop1]

i cant see how it can be a faulty sensor if the oil presure is also low but well maybe i lost the plot along the lines lol and also puting the old oil back in with the flushing agent that it contains will just fill the engine back up with all the crud again but again maybe ive lost the plotI would go down the local motor factors or ebay ang get an oil pump and fresh oil filter start and enjoy whats left of this lovely top down motoring.

[Guest suffolk04]

agreed new oil pump,oil and filter. next time don't use an engine flush, if its high millage, then all the crap get whipped around the pump and other parts and could kill the engine.