What Grade/make Of Oil To Use In Mk4 Xr3i Efi?

[Guest spaceman]

Afternoon all.

Have just changed oil/filter to Mobil 1 Super S 10w/40 semi synth from motor factors unknown brand 10w/40 semi Synth. Unfortunately I also used engine flush.

Now on start up from cold the oil light stays on until it is reved a couple of times and rattles more than it used to. I did change the sump gasket at the same time and took off the oil pick-up to clean and re-fitted but cannot see how this has caused the problem.

What make & grade of oil do you suggest, interestingly Halfords are listing 5w/30 semi synth instead of 10w/40-apparently it's new Ford recomendation-what does everyone think?

[ianxr3i]

I use 5w/30 fully synth castrol edge in my 90 EFi cvh & I dont have any problem with the hydraulic tappets making noises. I have never used flushing oil in any of the CVH's that I have serviced at work & I have done hundreds of them.

 

Hope this helps.

[Guest spaceman]

I read another post that said not to engine flush-gutted.

Any ideas on how to maybe help stop or minimize the tappets rattles-were fine before oil change!

Thanks

[Guest murcus]

i always use castrol 10w-40 never had a problem

 

you could always check you valve clearance, and tighten them down a bit, but what normally causes them is a worn cam, or the lifters getting clogged up,

to unclog these you can take them out and check that the press in with your hand if not you need to flush them as they get bunged up

with old oil etc, you can flush them by sitting them in fresh oil over night, but i normally, get a g clamp and compress them untill they are moving freely

then drop them back in some oil, then refit then adjust the tappets

job done

 

remember when doing tappets to make sure the valves are on the rocks, so you will have to disconect the battery and jurn the crank, untill

you get them all adjusted

 

hope this helps

[ianxr3i]

i always use castrol 10w-40 never had a problem

 

you could always check you valve clearance, and tighten them down a bit, but what normally causes them is a worn cam, or the lifters getting clogged up,

to unclog these you can take them out and check that the press in with your hand if not you need to flush them as they get bunged up

with old oil etc, you can flush them by sitting them in fresh oil over night, but i normally, get a g clamp and compress them untill they are moving freely

then drop them back in some oil, then refit then adjust the tappets

job done

 

remember when doing tappets to make sure the valves are on the rocks, so you will have to disconect the battery and jurn the crank, untill

you get them all adjusted

 

hope this helps

 

CVH engines dont have adjustable tappets. I would advise either soaking the the tappets in oil or replacing all of them

[Guest murcus]

i didnt mean they were adjustable, as in changing shims etc as its a different setup,

 

if you change the lifters and tappets in any cvh you are wasting your time, unless you put in a new cam,

as the wear in your old cam, will only wear out the new tappets in a few months

 

but what i was trying to say in my last post was the fact that the lifters that cause the problem,

i think if he just takes them out and compresses them and fires them back in, that should solve the problem