Guest sparky1985 Posted August 25, 2008 Share Posted August 25, 2008 hi there what is involved with the swap cheers steven Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest SiV6Si Posted August 25, 2008 Share Posted August 25, 2008 Steven, you will need the following... Engine loom, Engine, ECU and a slight rewire to the ECU for it to run correctly. There is a guide on the net somewhere..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest SiV6Si Posted August 25, 2008 Share Posted August 25, 2008 Found it ... Parts you will need. 1x 2.0 Zetec from a mondeo the silver top. with zetec or dohc cast on the cam cover. 1x weekend. 1x Escort to swap over engine. 1x Non-pats ECU. Mondeos didn’t have the pats system until mid-1994, so any 2.0 mondeo before this will have a suitable ecu. Gaskets for oil pump, water pump, sump, and pick up pipe. inlet gaskets too if your planning on changing it. 1x Zetec timing belt kit. 1x Cvh oil filter 1x Inlet manifold/fuel rail off a fiesta mk3 with the 1.8 or escort 1.8 plastic or cast but make sure you have the fuel rail if you have the 1.8 cast manifold. different ports, compared to the 1.6 fuel rail. The mondeo inlet will fit as standard. but it will knock on the brake servo bar at the back of the engine bay Tools needed . A socket set. mainly 10mm 13mm 15mm 17mm 19mm prob more but i cant remember. just get a set Torx bits. t45 t50 t55 probably more. Halfords do a set too. 2 hydraulic jacks. or an engine crane/hoist if you have one. 2 Axle stands and wheel chocks. Removal of the Escort engine. Put choks under the rear wheels. Jack the car up and place to axle stands under the front chassis rails. check your Haynes manual for suitable jacking points. make sure its high enough to get an engine underneath it. Remove front bumper. and drain coolant and oil from the engine. then remove radiator. and coolant pipes. There are 3 mounts. 2 on the gear box and one on the back of the engine. on the left of the inlet manifold. Un clip the loom from the engine sensors. make sure you label each connector. (bit of masking tape and pen) so u will disconnect crank sensor, cam sensor, thermostat, coil, injectors, throttle positioning sensor, idle speed control valve, oil pressure switch, power steering sensor, alternator and starter motor.. various earth cables, i cant think of anymore of the top of my head. just keep and eye out. Now you can unbolt the down pipe section of the exhaust from the manifold and cat, remove that, then remove the pinch bolts from the hubs that the ball joint of the wishbone connects to. knock them out using a separator. then you will be able to move the drive shafts out of the gearbox, once the clips have been removed from the CV boots. then bag them up so you don’t get cv grease everywhere. unbolt the gear linkage from the gearbox. move it aside. The place 2 jacks under the gear box and sump. you may need wooden blocks to reach the engine and box. then start to undo the mounts. there are 2 bolts holding the front mount of the gearbox in place. and there are 2 bolts also holding the mount in at the top left of the inlet manifold also there’s a brace bar that bolts from the mount to the sub frame. and then the tricky mount at the back of the gear box. its fiddly when its unbolted you got to wiggle it and lift it over. easier said than done. Then when unbolted lower the jacks and pull away form car. separate form gearbox Strip both zetecs down to bare engine. with no ancillaries on them. the mondeo brackets and pumps would wont need. You will need to remove timing belt and then you will need to swap the mondeo water pump for the escort pump (mondeo spins opposite way-internally). or buy a new water pump form and escort. fit new gasket too. Then you will also need the escort sump as this is different to the mondeo one. it will hit the down pipe. also because you are changing sumps. You will also need to change pick up pipes. and the gaskets in it. you can use the escort oil pump. but i personally would advise you to stick with the 2.0 pump and use a smaller oil filter (Cvh). Fit the new sump gasket when you fit the escort sump. No you can fit the new timing belt and set it all up. (refer to Haynes manual lol I'm too lazy to explain) Then bolt all escort ancillaries to the engine. and exhaust manifold. and Swap the escort flywheel to the 2.0, and the clutch and clutch plate, starter .etc bolt it back to the gearbox and bolt the rear engine mount back on the the block then. Lift it up carefully to the mount brackets bolt it back in place.. align it all, an then refit drive shafts gear linkage, loom connectors. and there you’ve done the hard bit. Getting the 2.0 Ecu to work with the escort loom. Right o then. Get a pen and paper handy.. some tape so u can label wires when they are disconnected. so u don’t get confused when you place them back. 1-Disconnect battery and remove the ecu from the foot well surround then remove the multi plug from the ecu. 2-then unwrap some tape from the loom. (just to make it easy to work with) 3-Note on the back of the plug you will see numbers 1 to 20 along the bottom and 41 to 60 written at the top. 21 to 40 goes through the middle in the same ascending direction as the top and bottom. 4-Right then, these are the wires which need to be moved: Injector wires pin no 12 pin no 15 pin no 42 pin no 54 Fuel pump wire pin no 53 Octane adjust wire pin no 29 air con wire (needs doing even if you do not have aircon) pin no 35 starter inhibit relay earth wire pin no 32 pats wires, pin no 39 pin no 22 (you may not have this wire!) 5-The multi plug has a large red plastic center. Remove it carefully using a small screwdriver. You can then see a small plastic clip holding in each wire. Use the small screwdriver to bend these clips back so you can pull the wire out from the back. 6-Remove the PATS wires from 39 and 22 (if applicable). Tape these up so they are secure on don’t contact anything and then tape them to the loom, so its neat and tidy. Remove the air con wire (35) and tape it out the way temporarily. Remove the fuel pump wire (53) and re-fit in hole 22. Now the injectors: Inj. 1 - hole 15, remove and refit to hole 51 Inj. 2 - hole 12, remove and refit to hole 52 Inj. 3 - hole 54, remove and refit to hole 39 Inj. 4 - hole 42, remove and refit to hole 35 Remove the octane adjust wire (29) and refit to hole 42. Remove the starter inhibit relay earth (32) and this needs to be connected to a new suitable earth. If you don't do this, the starter wont work! Un tape the air con wire which you have already removed and re-fit to hole 54. Re-fit the red plastic insert into the end of the ecu multi plug and bolt the plug back onto the ecu. Then the magic moment... it should start if it don’t then read over the guide again. and make sure you haven’t miss numbers the original wires. just take your time and be patient. and make sure you got plenty of light in the foot well when you first start the engine it will sound lumpy but it should only last for a few mins as the ecu need to re-learn the settings, once the idle settles down take it for a drive and try and get some mixed driving styles as it will help with the ecu to learn, go for at least 8 miles then its all done...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Escort Cabriolet Club Posted August 25, 2008 Share Posted August 25, 2008 There is only arround 18 BHP more in the 2.0 Conversion and it is easyer to just fit the 130 Cams into the 1.8 and get a 2.0 Throttle Body and MAF sensor mate !!! I looked into it but my 1.8 if more than fast enough and runs sweet !!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest gangsta Posted August 25, 2008 Share Posted August 25, 2008 There is only arround 18 BHP more in the 2.0 Conversion and it is easyer to just fit the 130 Cams into the 1.8 and get a 2.0 Throttle Body and MAF sensor mate !!! I looked into it but my 1.8 if more than fast enough and runs sweet !!! the 2.0 also gives you oil spray bars for the pistons - not on a 1.6 or 1.8 as well as a few other internal tweeks - the 2.0 is a better engine to turbo and run big power - but the 1.8 makes a better race engine. I dont really want to get too in-depth at this stage - but the choice really does depend on your intended application. You could strip all the goodies from a 2.0 - like the cams, ecu, spray bars etc and fit them to a 1.8 - but what would be the point? just fit a 2.0 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest sparky1985 Posted August 25, 2008 Share Posted August 25, 2008 thanks guys for the imput i think for now i may just stick to the idea of changing the cams and throttle body and maf senseor but plan to get a 2.0l engine and rebuild it in to a turbo version is there any particalr probloms i should watch for when fitting 2.0l throttle body Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Escort Cabriolet Club Posted August 26, 2008 Share Posted August 26, 2008 Best way to do it mate, at least the car will be running while you build the engine on a pallett !!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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