Guest Dojomaster1984 Posted September 14, 2009 Share Posted September 14, 2009 Hi all I have another problem with my car This time the car does not want to get into gear when the engine has been running for a while. When i try to put it into reverse it just grinds the night away. So after some pushing back lol. It then becomes a battle of wills to get into first gear, all of the other gears are abit of a push but do go in more easily. So pull offs in second are my fav at the moment. But all is fine when everything is cold. I have put a new prawl, cable and clutch in there but no luck. It is a BC gearbox not the IB5. Plus I am not having the age old problem of an engine that does not want to turn over when warm (sounds like i have a flat battery). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Lee81 Posted September 15, 2009 Share Posted September 15, 2009 The most likly cause Your clutch is not fully disengaging. This will make it virtually impossible to get reverse as it has no syncro to help engage it. With the main shaft still turning the gears are being slide into each other while turning. You will also have to overcome the syncro's in other gears to engage hence the struggle to select them. Many things can cause this:- A clutch release bearing failing or starting to fail. Heat will/can also make this worse (Had this myself) The wrong thickness, surface type or offset from the main shaft will make full disengament impossible. Some ib5 will use a flat release bearing other a rounded ring. Your choice of clutch will affect this. The fingers on the clutch plate will be either straight(Rounded ring) or have a wave like depression near there tips (Flat). Again heat has a effect on this. A defective clutch that is warping with heat. If manufactured wrong the clutch will be true and flat when cold but when hot will distort. This will cuase the clutch not to fully disengage. ( Had this problem myself. Not sure of the manufacturer but AP tested the clutch and fould this and sold me one of theres which has been problem free as always from there products). Seized clutch will also do the same. Was the input shaft and bearing greased fully and was the clutch area cleaned of dust build up? Hope this helps Lee Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Dojomaster1984 Posted September 16, 2009 Share Posted September 16, 2009 Yeah I Put in an Autotorue clutch plate and cover etc and cleaned etc were needed. Followed Haynes by the book :bowdown: But i guess that a new clutch never hurts lol. How much am i looking to get the AP for. As far as i can see £120 is a nice sure figure. The clutch worked fine when warm up for a good 5 months and now when my holidays come. It wants attention. After work fixer upper. Well more work for me then. Cheers for repyling Lee81 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Lee81 Posted September 16, 2009 Share Posted September 16, 2009 My AP clutch was £220 but I run a CVH turbo so I needed it. Has a heavy pedal though. The other was helix, they are very unhelpfull if you have a problem also. I would advise not buying a clutch made by them to anyone Ask some people on here for a decent brand name standard one. The AP will be a bit overkill. Also forgot to mention. Check the plastic bearings in the foot pedal. If i remember right they are red. They wear and stop the ratchet functioning as it should. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Dojomaster1984 Posted September 17, 2009 Share Posted September 17, 2009 Yeah for now i only have a 1.6i and no turbo so any old autotorque/hazel clutch will do. But I am taking the gearbox out, so i will give it a look over and i replaced the ratchet etc already but it never hurts to have another look at the bush THANKS. I am already tempted to change to a hydrulic clutch so anything requiring more pressure on the pedel is a no no. When the 1.9 goes in then i will have to change everything. Cheers Lee Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest tacha_maree Posted September 17, 2009 Share Posted September 17, 2009 may seem illy but:, have you checked the gear box oil? my bearing in mine are shot cos my rear crank seal leaks so my gear boxs keeps running really low on oil.... and it does the same thing when its cold its ok but when its warm u have to double clutch to get it in gear. maybe that the oil is thicker when cold but becomes more viscous when warm leaving it thin and not doing its job properly. possible should be something to check as its the one that wont cost you any money to check first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Dojomaster1984 Posted September 17, 2009 Share Posted September 17, 2009 Yeah I am sure that it is the right oil and yep there is just the right amount too. THE GOOD OLD WAIT UNTIL IT DRIPS METHOD :crackegg: Just waiting for new clutch bearing/seals etc. I like putting on new parts OH YEAH. Cheers tacha maree Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest mossop1 Posted September 17, 2009 Share Posted September 17, 2009 you may think im taking the pish but have you put the friction plate in the wright way round ie the old rule i was told if in dout large side out lol but sounds to me like its in wrong way round? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Dojomaster1984 Posted September 22, 2009 Share Posted September 22, 2009 sorry for not posting mossop1 i was in Porto. But yep the old flywheel side etc all followed the the books letter and i have another kit now so just trying to find some time between hols. Cheers Ears Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest steelcabby Posted September 22, 2009 Share Posted September 22, 2009 take it this is the mk4? just get a ford item clutch mate. plenty good enough. also you said you have just fitted a cable.. has the rachet pulled up properly? if it ain't going into gear warm then i would of said it was worn sychros? you said new clutch right? clutches ain't too much of a problem unless they are mated the wrong way round, or the ratchet hasn't pulled up properly or you haven't aligned the gears right? you can mix and match clutches of different types and bearing types and not have a problem TBH. let us know what it was in the end. very intereting to know Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Dojomaster1984 Posted November 23, 2009 Share Posted November 23, 2009 well the fight of all fights continues as i have just had the gearbox refurb and a new clutch cover/plate and release bearing. Aswell as making sure the prawl rachet cabel is right (and it is). But still the same old problem persists. Well must be the syncros. So the hunt for an lsd gearbox starts. I will post like crazy if it happens again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest KRYSS Posted November 25, 2009 Share Posted November 25, 2009 well the fight of all fights continues as i have just had the gearbox refurb and a new clutch cover/plate and release bearing. Aswell as making sure the prawl rachet cabel is right (and it is). But still the same old problem persists. Well must be the syncros. So the hunt for an lsd gearbox starts. I will post like crazy if it happens again got one here if your intrested kryss Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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