Vincygav

I have never seen pump repair caps for the VW,where have you seen them? My Tigerseal idea didnt work either - I bloody give up with the thing now.

Should be in the back of the Haynes manual

I have done this to my Orion from 1.6 cvh which was harder. But much easier when I did it to my Escort convertable as it was the Si with 130 zetec engine and the majority of it is the same as the RS2k. To convert Si 130, all you need is the engine, ecu, fusebox, exhaust manifold, n/s engine loom coming from the ecu, o/s engine loom coming from the fusebox, throttle cable, offside engine mount the others are the same as zetec, radiator hose that is near the alternator. If you are going to use the ABS setup, then you need the RS2k abs sensors, brake pipes, master cylinder and servo, abs control unit and abs pump under the servo. You could have get a second hand throttle cable steve for cheap from CR Spares (JD Motorsport), they do a lot of RS2000 mk5/6 partsas they are a specialist breakers for them.

I am really suprised all these years no one has come up with a replacement. They surely must be plenty of them cracked, because I had it crack on 2 different covers I bought. I remember someone posted a link here some years ago to a metal one but was at a steep price of £50 excluding postage. Worst thing about metal you cannot see the level you are meant to fill it up with. Surely someone on this group must work with someone who does plastics or vacuum forming and could get a set made. I had try everything on mine in the past 3 years of owning my cabby. Adralite - never worked, superglue - 100% useless didnt work, gasket sealant - only lasted for a few weeks, candlewax - didnt work. I have now resorted to Tiger Seal PU Adhesive sealant. Panel glue for cars. Hopefully it would work, did it yesterday, so would fill it up with fluid today and see if it would still leak. I really would like a new pump cover, as it has put me off putting my roof down as I rather press a button to put it up and down, rather than manually which I am lazy to do.

Sparkplugs, lol

The coolant temp sensor guage has gone. It is on the cooling hose. Could be you need new spark plugs why you have trouble to start it when the engine is hot.

A real shame the recession has got hold of them. They made a lot of cabriolet designs for various manufacturers, you can see it here http://www.karmann.com/__C1256DF700512B86....050041957d.html

Also make sure you have the correct fan control switch and voltage is supplied to its circuit.

LOOOOOOOOOOOL, some very harsh tools (hack saw & breaker bar) to be using on rusty nuts - sorry couldnt help that one. I would have thought heat (blow torch) and lubrication would have done the trick

The RS2k/XR3i rear disc brake shoes have been discontinued as you have said. I think one manufacturer makes them, cant remember, but ti would be a long search on google. Your easiest bet is to get them relined by a brake relining specialist or buy some used ones from JD motorsport. They very rarely wear down and is part the reason why Ford discontinued them. Unless the person was driving with the handbrake on partially or doing handbrake skid turns!!

Would the track rod ends also make a difference?

I realised the morning after I posted this it had something to do with the glovebox. It was when I overstuffed the glovebox with stuff and force closed it. I guess this then pushed the hinges off the lid. So I now need to snap the hinges back onto the lid. I drove to work that morning with the glovebox opened and no noise. I realised the relay had something to do with the alarm system when it made the alarm horn go off. I have closed the glovebox more better, although the bottom of the lid makes it swing just a lil when the car moves hence making the relay buzz. So now I have a day off today, I would sort it out.

The ignition leads, if you havent changed them; as they likely would have been covered in oil, and possibly it may be worth changing you coil pack.

Just add a few on mine in the snow last month.

My car keeps making a funny shorting/buzzing type sound. It happens when the ignition/engine is on and mostly sounds when moving off or turning. Under investigation, I found it to be a relay as the sound was coming from behind the dash. I removed the clocks and drove a little and then could feel the relay making the noise when I touched it. I then took it out and push it back in fully, but it still is doing the same thing. Although one thing is I took it out and touched the pins on it 3 times and it appeared to have made the Ford alarm horn beep a couple times. I have checked the wiring diagrams in the back of the Haynes and could not see where it is or what it is for. Is it distinctive to the cabriolet? It is clipped behind the dashboard in the location in the picture, I unclipped it so you could see around where it is clipped. The wire then goes along other looms under the near the steering column. It is a 5 pin relay, part V91AB-L13A025-AA (12v 40/35A) wires to the pins are; pin 86 = red thick wire pin 30 = brown/yellow pin 87 = nothing pin 87a = brown pin 85 = brown/red and brown/green

It should be the one that is the hazard light triangle circuit.

Yea I realised when I got the kit it was hi/low, but got it for £49 so not a bad price. Getting the new style LED for my sidelights the flat hi power led which is smaller and brighter than the outgoing multi LED sidelight bulb.

The system you talk about is on BMW and a few other convertables, when you open the door it would lower the window by 5 mm automatically. when the door is closed fully after 3 seconds, the window would raise up that extra 5mm to create a perfect seal. Do they have a special relay to do this?

They used to be on ebay a lot. if you put a search in for 'escort electric window'

The starter inhibitor may well be a relay.

Or could be the spark plugs

Mousey your headlight/wiper unit stalk is gone, common problem. Either burnt out terminals in the switch or the circuit board. They sell them on ebay, best to buy new.

Just a lil mini write up of fitting HID zenon conversion kit - not a perfect one, but something. The kit - which I bought from racebits. Got the 6000k H4 version Pull the covers off the headlights. On the mk5 with RS2000/Cosworth headlights it is different than the normal one. In the picture to the left is the H4 bulb assembly and to the right is the H3 bulb which is used for the main (flash) beam. I put stick pads underneath the ballast to mount on the inner wing. Then connect the plug & play connectors in, just one of them connects to the feed that would have gone onto the H4 bulb. You can see the HID bulb in the pic. I connected one of the HID's to see the difference. This was in the evening getting dark and the difference was unbelievable, it was mega bright compared to the standard. The left lamp is the standard H4 (plus these H4 are the phillps vision blue zenon) but still not as good as the HID that I fitted to the right of the picture. Shows it connected up to the headlamp. Second pic taken with the camera flash of. Halogen to the left, HID on the right. HID bulb, with the Phillpis blue vision zenon. The Phillips blue vision was one of two that passed the legal requirements of light path and still delivered brightness when test by auto express, the rest were poor quality beam or light inadequte.

Toad Ai606 cat1 alarm.

IF the servo is more closer to the nearside, then start by the procedure. offside rear, nearside rear, offside front, then nearside front. To start off, make sure you have enough fluid in the master cylinder. pump the pedal until it feels firm. then if you have a pressure bleeding kit connect it, if not, get someone to keep their foot down on the pedal after it was firm. then release the rear offside nipple until fluid flows, could take about a minute. once it flows, lock the nipple, then repump the brake till hard, keep foot down to the floor, then reopen the nipple.do this procedure until it it free of bubble, and do the procedure for the rest of the calipers.