Guest s6boy1979 Posted August 14, 2010 Share Posted August 14, 2010 The saga continues! Took the car to a local garage as i was getting no where after breaking down on me on the way to ff last weekend. They have worked out that i am getting no signal/power to the crank sensor but they are not sure what it could be. So i was wondering if anyone has had the same problem and what it was? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Lee81 Posted August 14, 2010 Share Posted August 14, 2010 Not had this problem but it can be caused by only a few things. The first is a break or short in the wiring to it. This can be tested by a auto meter looking at resistance between the crank sensor wire to the pin on the ecu. Diagnostic equipment may show this up If this is ok go on to the crank sensor. Disconnect it and connect the multimeter to the terminals. Set meter to resistance. You should find that at certain point the resistance will go up or down as the set points pass it. If all this checks out the only other thing left the ecu itself. May be a internal short, burnt out connection. Hope this helps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest s6boy1979 Posted August 14, 2010 Share Posted August 14, 2010 do you know what pin it is on the ecu? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Lee81 Posted August 14, 2010 Share Posted August 14, 2010 Not sure on that. will have to check the hanynes manual wiring diagrams for that one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest s6boy1979 Posted August 14, 2010 Share Posted August 14, 2010 Ok changed the crank sensor, the wiring from the crank sensor and the ecu. I am getting a signal from the crank sensor to the module on the inner wing but still not starting Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Lee81 Posted August 14, 2010 Share Posted August 14, 2010 Is the fuel pump activating Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest s6boy1979 Posted August 14, 2010 Share Posted August 14, 2010 yeah mate you can hear it prime every time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Lee81 Posted August 15, 2010 Share Posted August 15, 2010 If you have signal from cramk sensor and checked wiring plus replaced ecu then it probably isn't the crank sensor thats at fault. Garage was wrong there. I thought that when you first posted this because i think the engine would still run just badly in limp home mode if there is one programmed. You need to identify which area the fault is. take out a injector and turn engine over with it placed in a jar. If your getting fuel then its not the fuel system. Next take a plug out and check for spark with the engine turning over. I would have said what you experiencing is possibly coil pack failure or something related to spark plug firing. Shame you don't live near me as i be willing to look over the car Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Lee81 Posted August 15, 2010 Share Posted August 15, 2010 Just thought that I think the flywheel has one tooth missing that is the trigger for the crank sensor. If another tooth breaks off this could give a false signal so as a final check maybe take starter off and double check theres no damage here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
badger Posted August 15, 2010 Share Posted August 15, 2010 have you changed the edis unit that is the block on the front wing where all signals from ecu/crank and coil pack etc etc go to and from. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
badger Posted August 15, 2010 Share Posted August 15, 2010 have you changed the edis unit that is the block on the front wing where all signals from ecu/crank and coil pack etc etc go to and from. also check if you have power to coil pack or even a spark at the plugs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest s6boy1979 Posted August 15, 2010 Share Posted August 15, 2010 Changed over the edis unit but made no diff. The garage said I get fuel but no spark, they changed the coil but made no diff again. I'm so stuck now and is looking like an auto spark job Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest gavintwopies Posted August 16, 2010 Share Posted August 16, 2010 Have you checked that the crank sensor is giving off voltage?? As when cranking the cps will give off between 2-2.5v and the sensor is also polarised so if you have wired the new wires in the wrong way round it will also not run, also check that the live to the edis module on the inner wing is a constant 12v supply while cranking and that the earth is a good sound body earth have you looked at the engine earth strap?? all though if its turning over this should be ok. even with the edis disconnected from the ecu it will still give spark as these are what i use when i fit carbs to zetec engines. Here is a image of the wiring diagram i use when fitting megajolt to a recent zetec carb conversion note the pip and saw wires are what connect the edis to the main ecu and will not effect the sparking of the coil pack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest s6boy1979 Posted August 16, 2010 Share Posted August 16, 2010 Cheers mate i will have a look in to this and let you know Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Paul Grainger Posted August 20, 2010 Share Posted August 20, 2010 Another thing well worth checking is corrossion ?!!? You have said the fuel pump runs for about a second when you switch on? Does it run again when you crank it? If it does not then you may have lost the 'PIP' signal from the EDIS module to the EECIV control unit (ECU). (This is required as the Fuel pump relay is triggered by the EECIV. The Resistance of the crank sensor should always be the same as it is mearly an inductive pick up coil. With the multimeter across its pins and set to voltage you should indeed get 2-2.5 volts. If this is on the low side the a 'PIP' signal will not be generated. To rectify this, remove the sensor and clean both the mating sufaces. Even the slightest corrosion can lift the sensor away from the flywheel and give low voltage. I have before now had to file the sensor a bit to achieve a good signal. dont file to much as it could touch the flywheel! Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest s6boy1979 Posted August 20, 2010 Share Posted August 20, 2010 Hi mate Thanks for that, did some testing the other day and turns I have crap fuel pressure but all h correct signals so I am going to check the fuel pump as I this is the prob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest gavintwopies Posted August 23, 2010 Share Posted August 23, 2010 Another thing well worth checking is corrossion ?!!? You have said the fuel pump runs when you switch on for about a second? Does is run again when you crank it? If it does not then there may have lost the 'PIP' signal from the EDIS module to the EECIV control unit (ECU). (This is required as the Fuel pump relay is triggered by the EECIV. The Resistance of the crank sensor should always be the same as it is mearly an inductive pick up coil. With the multimeter across its pins and set to voltage you should indeed get 2-2.5 volts. If this is on the low side the a 'PIP' signal will not be generated. To rectify this then remove the sensor and clean both the mating sufaces. Even the slightest corrosion can list the sensor away from the flywheel and give low voltage. I have before now had to file the sensor a bit to achieve a good signal. Good luck. Good bit of info there But i thought you said that the car had no spark hence me posting up the diagram of the edis4??? what garage is doing the work on the car as i would be removing it from there ownership if this was the case? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest s6boy1979 Posted August 23, 2010 Share Posted August 23, 2010 Hey Thanks everyone for there help it help me loads and proved both the rac and my local garage are talking out there arses. After getting back from the garage as they didn't have a clue I did some more test and with a little from the star that is rich worked out it was my fuel pressure. Replace the split pipe on the fuel pump and the car is running sweet oh how I have missed her. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gingergman Posted August 23, 2010 Share Posted August 23, 2010 great news Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest s6boy1979 Posted August 23, 2010 Share Posted August 23, 2010 tell me about it stu. going to swap it over to the mfi external set up now so on the look out for mfi tank, pump carrier and fuel pipes now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gingergman Posted August 23, 2010 Share Posted August 23, 2010 less probs with mfi lol, theres a tank on ebay for 25 quid can remember if its mfi tho, ive got a pump carrier you can have if you want it, not amazing but its ok and free! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest s6boy1979 Posted August 23, 2010 Share Posted August 23, 2010 cool beans mate let me know the postage as i will cover that, just on ebay now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest gavintwopies Posted August 24, 2010 Share Posted August 24, 2010 try the ford escort breakers he will be on e-bay and has loads of stuff i keep on getting my random parts via him always seems to come up trumps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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