Jump to content
Escort Cabriolet Club

Xr3I Mk4 Start Up


Guest misslea
 Share

Recommended Posts

Guest misslea

recently put our xr3i bk on the road after cover up threw winter...

 

when we were driving it, it would cut out and then would not start as if the battery was flat

we were told it was a starter motor problem so we had a new starter motor fitted 3 days ago but they have put a diesel one on it and over the last 2 days it wouldn't start as good as it should so we took it bk to the garage and they have fitted new ignition leads, crank shaft sensor and coils ... its still strugglin to start after tryin different ways (e.g. turnin the key slightly or turning on then off then try startin it ) we are goin out of our minds and need advice desperatley :punish::sad:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest misslea

yeah we hear the fuel pump...

 

when i said b4 about tryin a few different ways of turning the key, we wait to hear the fuel then turn the key off then wait do it again then turn the key to start it but only slightly and that WAS workin... but we have tried other ways instead of that way, like just turn the key normal lol

 

when i was at the mechanics today they did something with an ignition lead and a spark plug and it wasn't sparkin untill the key was being turned off :crazy: so thats when they ordered and changed the ignition leads aswell as the other stuff they changed

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest misslea

we were told that couldnt get a starter motor for our car which is the reason auto elecs put diesel starter motor on it ....

 

we have just seen starter motors brand new on ebay

 

should we put a petrol one back on???

 

arghhhhhh advise please cos we thinking this could be the reason the car wont start up now AND sounds like a diesel (obvs sounds shit)

 

im thinkin we have been duped out of tooooo much money for no reason

roll on tues when i go bk to the knob that has done this to us

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The original application of the starter motor is irrelevant. The "Diesel" starter motor will just be a higher torque starter motor so in theory should start the engine quicker. A lot of RS Turbo's run Transit Connect Diesel starter motors. If the starter motor was second hand then there may be an issue, also don't disregard the unit as being faulty.

 

If the car sounds like a diesel there must be a mechanical fault somewhere.

 

Does the engine actually turn over on the starter? I had a gamble with a starter motor from a MK2 Focus off ebay on my CVH. All fitted but the dog wouldn't engage with the flywheel so it just whirred at me.

 

Do you get a spark when it turns over?

 

Can you smell fuel on the plugs after an unsuccessful attempt at starting?

 

Can you bump start it?

 

Lee

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest misslea

Since having the diesel motor fitted the car takes alot longer to start sometimes a few attempts than it did b4 .. its created more problems in our eyes doesnt seem to be a spark when turning over, been told it might be worthwhile upgrading spark plugs even though just had new ones fitted with the service at the weekend ... if it doesnt start it is possible to bump start ... feel like its been ruined and just want it to sound and run like it is capable of doing

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest misslea

I am gonna take the car bk to the guy who told us that we couldnt get a normal starter motor and thats why he put the diesel one on ....

 

Granted we dont have to bump start it all the time but we just want a normal startin car like it was before he fitted the new motor

 

It wasnt startin problems we were concerned with when we took the car to the garage it was a problem with cutting out at junctions while driving lol

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest misslea

I am gonna take the car bk to the guy who told us that we couldnt get a normal starter motor and thats why he put the diesel one on ....

 

Granted we dont have to bump start it all the time but we just want a normal startin car like it was before he fitted the new motor

 

It wasnt startin problems we were concerned with when we took the car to the garage it was a problem with cutting out at junctions while driving lol

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Try getting a compression test done on your engine, sounds like it might be the gasket.

 

Doesn't sound like the head gasket at all...

 

Stalling at junctions will most likely just be the ISCV and breather system needs a clean. But get the guy to replace the starter.

 

Kind regards,

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest mk3cabby2014

i've had cars that have ran one minute then cut out, started ok from cold then not when hot and the other way round all turned out to be low compression. be it a valve, gasket or ring etc. The gasket does deteriorate even if you dont use the car. Some people check it by removing a plug and cranking with a volenteer having his finger near the hole to feel for pressure, if any are different then thats your prob, better to use a compression tester but thats a free way of looking, if compression feels good and even then check spark while the plugs out, if thats ok look towards fuel probs.

True they do clog up though rs2000 you probs know more than me thats just things ive experienced before. hope you sort it mate.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Lee81

First off before anything else remove the plugs and gap them to 0.6 mm this is below what they should be. not sure on ford settings but would think is 0.9mm. Clean them with petrol.

 

Charge the car battery fully up.

 

If it starts then all good, set plugs to wider gap as in ford spec and try again. If issues occur you probably have nackered or crap coils that don't give correct voltage. Very common. As is the plug gaps not being set at all.

Reducing plug gap will overcome a low voltage coil as will it also help old engines run with compression and oil contamination issues.

 

If it didn't start. Remove each plug and put around 5-10ml of petrol in each chamber.

 

If it now starts your problem is fueling related.

 

If you do manage to get it running keep an eye on voltage at battery. 13.8v is ideal but also rev engine to check no drop off.

 

The most likely things to happen when cars arn't run for long period are spark plug failure, battery not holding voltage and alternator issue seized/coroded bushs.

 

ISCV is also prone to stick on all cars though this will be eased by wd40 and application of throttle on startup wont prevent a engine start. It usually sorts itself out with use.

 

If stored for long periods in cold conditions MAF and other temperature senders are prone to failure. As is ECU though a good dry out with a hairdryer and hoover will usually sort this if ecu was functioning fine recently.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 years later...
  • 2 weeks later...
Guest username

Timing not adjustable on EFi, most likely the cutting out at junctions is related to either the ISCV or gunk in the throttle body although on our Mk5 we sorted the cutting out at junctions by winding the air bleed screw out further than standard.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...