Guest no1birdman Posted March 10, 2012 Share Posted March 10, 2012 Inner ball joint worn on rack, bought one it looks like a drum stick, are they easy to fit, on the car as dont want to take rack off, done that once its a fiddly job, and do you need any special tools as never new you could buy and replace that part as always bought a rack, Thanks mk 4 cab Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
f40 cab Posted March 11, 2012 Share Posted March 11, 2012 i take it you mean the track rod end. dont have to take off mark up with tip x or count the turns so ne one goes back same length, not major problem you can just get it tracking done about £11. undo the lock nut then unscrew the rod end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest avul Posted March 11, 2012 Share Posted March 11, 2012 i know wat u mean & it is referd 2 as a drumstick, its the trackrod arm & not trackrod end. it is easy 2 change just a very large spanner myt b as large as 26mm 2 take it off the rack pinion, it will b a normal thread direction, but dont take off the trackrod end b4 u take of the trackrod arm as u need 2 measure it, but wat ever u do do not use a ball joint splitter as there crap! & will damage it... instead take of the trackrod end nut to hub & bein carefull not 2 hit the ball joint hit the hub were the ball joint is wiv a large hammer wiv the wheel turned out 2 u, this will shock the tapper & the ball joint will just pop out of the hub, then unscrew the arm frm the pinion wiv the gaiter still on& measure the full length of the arm & ball joint, then take of the rod end & gaiter, reassemble the arm, measure & tightern, clean up thread wiv a wire brush on the rod end, this will help wiv puttin bak 2gether easier, but use plenty of copper grease, if u have trouble doin the rod end nut up then use a gd size peace of wood place it up in2 the inner wing 2 the top & on2 the top of the rod end, gently jack up the hub so that it puts pressure on2 the tapper & then u can tightern the rod end wivout the tapper of the rod end spinning, job done. regards mark. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest no1birdman Posted March 11, 2012 Share Posted March 11, 2012 Thanks, I know how to do a track rod end, you are spot on its the inner drumstick just looked ackward to fit, did not know what to unscrew it with Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest cabbydean Posted March 12, 2012 Share Posted March 12, 2012 inner track rod end is standard thread and it can ba a pain trying to get spanner on it! i use big grips if it awkward Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest no1birdman Posted May 30, 2012 Share Posted May 30, 2012 cannot undo it, new one looks easy fit with flats on for spanner but cannot undo one on rack its just round, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gingergman Posted May 30, 2012 Share Posted May 30, 2012 prob been rounded off in the past, try mulgrips, worked for me on similar things Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest no1birdman Posted May 31, 2012 Share Posted May 31, 2012 tried them, everything, it was a new rack 10 years ago Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest IanA Posted October 11, 2013 Share Posted October 11, 2013 Just had that exact problem. Symptoms were a worsening judder when braking. The ball joint on the track rod arm felt worn. Slid the rack gaiter down the arm and the ball joint is in a round housing with no flats. The car was on some stands that I've made from a railway sleeper so not too high off the ground. I got the Mole Grips to bite but with hardly any room to turn before touching the drive shaft. I put a scissor jack under the handles and raised it. That was enough to loosen it. £6 later, had a replacement this time with flats. Mine was the shorter 320mm version. Still not enough room to get a spanner on so used the Mole Grips again. Once the track rod end is in place (changed that as well) there's no loosening force on that joint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Himanshu Posted April 23, 2016 Share Posted April 23, 2016 I have changed 5 racks in 10 years, the original Ford Rack lasted over 100K miles there furbished ones especially by XL racks last about 2000 miles. I cover about 500 miles a year, and unfortunately am at the end of my tether, it is one thing having an old car but when parts are no longer available, and if in the rare event they do come up on some auction internet bay. I am paying Ferrari prices for a Ford! Time to call it a day. It got to a point that even Ford havent got the technicians, to deal with it and parts are universally unavailable! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest username Posted April 24, 2016 Share Posted April 24, 2016 When you say the racks are lasting only 2k miles, what is the failure mode you're getting? Surely you can't be writing off a rack every 2 years, are you using the correct PAS fluid if fitted? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest no1birdman Posted October 19, 2016 Share Posted October 19, 2016 with engine now out, tried again to change drumstick, mole grips not working it seems tighter than ever, is there a tool for it as my new drumstick got flats the old one on car just round, thought of electric welding a bar on it, any ideas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest no1birdman Posted November 6, 2016 Share Posted November 6, 2016 14in stilsons undid it, dead easy lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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