escortcabrioletclub

not true ,,, rangerover are bigger

oh yeh but that wont be a problem over here unless thay cant get it on a ramp lol

cool cars looking good ...... good luck with mot but if it can pas a tuf then going to have no problem with it

wow ....... how much i put mate on to fords local to buy off the shelf £74 from fords ........ but glad you puting cab back to as is ,, allways nice to see good luck with it

nope its not nice and yes i broken 3 bars now all under brakeing ..... last one was at 60mph........... we put it down to polly bush and non ford bars so best advice is make sure you get ford only ones ......... and yes one bolt one end and nut the other easy fix

sorry but 215 is the width of the tyre not the wheel and depending on the j of the rim witch is the width of the wheel depends on tyre size that will fit so if a 7j rim a 205 and a 215 and a 225 will go

i will try and get a number for someone who winds altornators ......... i take it the 4 kickers not going in a cab ? plus what kickers would you be useing ?

i would replace the bushes in rear also have you hit a curb? and you may have bent a rear tie bar ...... also only use ford ones if you replace them

ok this is a intresting thing .......... dyno mat is good and cant be faulted apart from the price ..... now i have been useing flash band for years ever since wining a spl comp after finding out that the uk champion ie a mate was useing it and the shop he co owned only used it theres still people that will say no its crap and so on but i swear by it only down side is its not as thick as dyno mat so you need more but its still half the price just my opinion heres a link http://www.blenkinproducts.co.uk/index.php...0659ad331ebe98e

well disitions disitions lol ok gas better then oil gti ones would probly be best but ......... look at it this way the clue is in the name cabriolet ....... thats what ones you should go for lol its not a Saloon, Van or Estate The reason for using gas pressurization is to fight cavitation. When a vehicle is traveling down the road and hits a bump or a pothole, the compression and extension of the suspension telescopes the shock or strut. This forces the piston inside to push its way through a column of oil (hydraulic fluid), creating resistance as the oil is forced through small orifices in the piston. The motion of the piston also creates an area of high pressure ahead of it and an area of low pressure behind it. It’s the low pressure area directly behind the piston that causes trouble because it allows tiny air bubbles to form in the oil (cavitation). The faster the piston pumps up and down, the more rapidly cavitation aerates the oil on both sides of the piston and churns it into foam. The result is a "foam zone" around the piston that offers little resistance and causes the shock’s dampening ability to fade. That’s where gas charging comes in. Pressurizing the oil inside the shock with nitrogen gas prevents the formation of bubbles in the low pressure zone behind the piston. How much pressure does it take? In a twin-tube shock, most manufacturers use about 100 to 150 psi, though some go up to as much as 250 psi depending on the application. The gas charge is located in the top of the outside chamber. With monotube shocks and struts, a floating piston separates the gas from the oil. Because of the larger surface area, a much higher gas charge is normally used: typically 360 to 400 psi. As a result, gas pressurized shocks and struts have more consistent ride control characteristics than nonpressurized shocks and won’t fade on rough roads or under hard use. Gas pressure also makes the shock more responsive for a firmer, more stable ride.

its all one unit ...........take off car then clamp on floor ....well thats the way we do it have you not got a haynes manual ? dont know how thaytell you to do it

for a £130 its a bargin........ plus you dont see many so thats good to,asuming your keeping it the origanel coulor ? look forward to the progress photos i hope to start mine soon

1 you canuse ebayoneor cut and mod the efi zetec early escort one 2 i was going to mod and use the standed escort tps on the throttle bodys 3 piper do flat universal ones for this type of thing 4.1 do the throttle bodys not alllready have vacum pipes ? youwill be best to link all4 for the brake power servo 4.2 ok depending what way you go with manifolds depends what fuel rail you use i know some use thebike ones and others use the zetec ones ....... its just a disition youneed to decide marc on here has been runing throttle bodys for a while im sure he will also advise hope that make sence lol

dont know if this will help http://www.escortcabrioletclub.co.uk/forum...mp;showentry=64

dont sound to bad to me ...... from fords ........ lol go price up a fuel relays lol i would take theold on to maplins and get it matched ...... then will be about £5 good luck with it

hi and welcome ..... ok as far as i know cossie wheels on a mk4 will stick ou the arch but i think with a s1 body kit you may just get away with it ..... you will need to cut the wheel arches ie metle ones aswell i could be wrong ...... im sure someone will corect me is so lol good luck with geting a mk4

well if you come in from dover then a may meet you at some point on your way up

dont sound mad to me ........ seeing as jakson racing dose a supercharger kit for the foucus black top zetec ..... normaly the supercharger gose at the rear .... also theres a chap on the mondeo owners thats useing the mini one on his mondi so not mad and not a first but a nice little power increase .... if you do a bit of resurch theres a feai bit of info out there good luck and look forward to seeing your progress

i may have a full cossie bodykit for £150 should know tomorrow

all looking well ......... good to see some movment of the rs20000 lump hope to see it in for next pub meet lol keep up the good work

yes a fear trip from me lol well i hope it works out ..........useing the struts will make things cheeper ....... look forward to seeing the build ...... makes a change from rst all the time lol

ok i know i bringing this up from old but how you geting on ? seing as the age of you cab you dont need the cat or low emisions i would use the fester loom ........ i would use the mk4 escort efi loom let us know how things are

im liking the idear ...... had thought about it ......... ok well at least you starting with a better biger engine bay ...lol compeared to the mk4 cab you say about start mesuring .... yes good start but i can say now it will go lol if it was me i would strip all out the mk6 bay then strip any acsilarys off engine not being used ..... then bonnet of and hoist engine in the bay then start mesuring and cuting ........ i asume it has the mt6 box ie 6speed? with cables ? is the cab going to be looking origanal from the outside ? ie bodywork ? what hubs you going to be useing ? and what drive shafts ? you need to look at the splines on the shafts see if the same or you could end up with a £700 bill just for shafts with out cv joints lol so need to work it out right unless your willing to throw lots of cash at it ? i take it you will be useing the st loom/ecu ? if not the omex 710 i would recomend good luch i look forward to the updates plus where in the uk are you ? this is my st220 v6 powerd cab

if after a true deep bass for a cab boot then it has to be the solobarac kikker as due to size v subsonic bass thay are the best unless you want to use the whole boot thay have such a small box size i have a l7 12" running off a cerwin vaga 1 channel momo d block amp and it works lol well its blown me box apart lol

no problem i do try to help glad you have it sorted