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Escort Cabriolet Club

escortrs2000.co.uk

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Everything posted by escortrs2000.co.uk

  1. I'm going to say CV joint and wheel bearing. Remove the hub yourself, take it to a garage and get a new bearing fitted. Go from there, shouldn't be too pricy if you remove the hub yourself. Lee
  2. I do like that. Looks nice on the RS2K rims too. Lee
  3. I know this might not go down well, but please put down the tools... Out of interest what will you be using the dump valve for? Lee
  4. Cheers lads, look forward to getting it all running and ready for the summer now. Haven't driven a turbo CVH for a while and I need some in my life, lol! Lee
  5. And that's where we stand today. To finish it off for use in the summer I need to sort out a fuel leak, sort any issues starting it, tape the loom, re-fit the dash and tighten the front running gear. Current spec: Engine 1.6 CVH EFi Ported and polished head Stage 1 T3 turbo & -31 actuator Airtec Front Mount Intercooler Airtec aluminium radiator Black silicone hoses all round Group A induction filter Mongoose stainless steel exhaust Custom EFi loom OFAC management Beige injectors Adjustable fuel pressure regulator Powerchips 195 chip Small turbo EsCos MAP sensor Running gear: Koni adjustable dampers AVO -35mm springs Flo-Flex polybushes RS Turbo hubs, Anti-Roll bars (Front and rear), tie bars and wishbones. Brakes Front: Escort Cossie callipers with Sierra Cossie 2wd disks, Ferodo DS2000 pads and Goodridge braided hoses Rear: Sierra XR4x4 callipers with Sierra Cosworth 2wd disks, Ferodo DS2000 pads and Goodridge braided hoses Lee
  6. At the end of 2011 she was parked up. Now the RST engine rebuild and transplant coupled with the EFi conversion began. As I already had an MFI RST engine with a few thousand miles since the bottom end was rebuilt I did things slightly diferent. Instead of an EFi bottom end with a CPS hole I opted for a bottom pulley and CPS mount from a CVH Sierra (36:1 trigger wheel). This is a tight fit (impossible with the engine in place) but will work fine :
  7. I then began the task of cleaning up and painting all of the running gear: Once it was all freshly painted, I got it transferred in to the cabriolet and got an MOT. I drove it like that for the summer:
  8. This week I decided its about time I started a build thread on my 1989 XR3i Cabriolet. It all started in November 2006 when I swapped my 1996 Escort RS2000 16v for a 1989 Escort RS Turbo. I already had a project in the form of a 1988 Fiesta XR2 which was almost complete. I'd wanted an RS Turbo since my early teens so this was an offer I couldn't refuse. The RST had a few months MOT left so the plan was to finish off the XR2, poodle around in the RST then start rebuilding it once the MOT ran out. Well as with all of these things, the MOT ran out and then my circumstances changed. My wife and I were offered amazing job opportunities 200 miles away in London so we took them and moved. I finished and sold the XR2 to fund the move and put the RST in my parents garage with the intention of tidying it up whenever I was home. Over the next few years I collected all of the parts I needed to rebuild and upgrade the RST but as I got further in to the build things changed again. Rust and time were against me. I got offered a 1989 MFi XR3i cabriolet by my brother in the summer of 2010 for really low money. It was solid throughout and more importantly an absolute bargain. The new plan: reshell the RST into the cabriolet. Here's a few pics of how I got it: A quick wheel change, much better: So, I stripped the RST shell and sold it on. I fitted the '90 spec front bumper and Recaros from the RST. Then with the proceeds of selling the shell, I had the XR3i re-sprayed to make it minty mint:
  9. The ford guy was right, there are two belts that come off the drive shafts and in turn drive two small pumps. There is a sensor on the cover IIRC that has a yellow barrel shaped connector on the end of a fly lead. This is your ABS sensor, it is literally just checking that the belts have tension, which closes the contact of the switch. To replace the belts it's a driveshaft out job, you should be able to see if they are there and check them from above. If you just want to distinguish the light you can bridge the two pins in the connector on the loom. This will make the light perform as it should from the factory. Obviously get the belts sorted though. Glad mine has no abs, it's very primitive in design and really restricts the breaking. Lee
  10. MFi cars were all fitted with external pumps, EFi cars all had in tank pumps. I guess they wanted to identify wether you were EFi or MFi. On senders, MFi cars were fitted with 2 different types of sender. Lee
  11. Thanks for the offer mate but I think I have everything I need. It is a standard bonnet, I had a brand new RS bonnet and vents that I sold on when I changed my mind. Also sold on a bodykit. I have a thousand mile old mongoose that came off my old ERST and my ERST wheels are freshly refurbed so the whole car is mintly fresh. I'm trying to keep it as standard looking as possible, but a few things give it away: FMIC, disks all round, exhaust etc but I look at them as a subtle hint. This is my favourite hint though: LOL! Cheers, Lee
  12. Cheers Mate, I read that there were 3 diferent systems then I saw your pic and it really threw me, lol! I'm converting my MFi '3i to EFi turbo using a '3i EFi loom. I read that I needed to lengthen the ISCV wire from the inner wing to the inlet, I guess that's for cars fitted with the 1st and 2nd gen systems. My loom comes from a late '3i EFi so I'm guessing its the same as yours. I will leave the one on the inner wing taped away. Anyway here's what I have: Which is the equivalent to a 3rd gen system. Cheers, Lee
  13. I'm slowly progressing on the car. I have fitted the engine, gearbox, loom, rad and intercooler etc. All I need to do now is lengthen a few wires, swap the fan connector on the loom, fit the exhaust and add the fluids. Here's some update pics: Lee
  14. This is interesting. I found the attached pic in another thread, it appears to have the ISCV on the inlet and some kind of pulse solenoid on the air box. I guess the loom I have is similar, I know it's from a late MK4. I'll tape the one on the inner wing back an use the one next to the ISCV for it. Lee
  15. Morning all! I'm progressing really well with my cabby EFi turbo conversion. Just a few more wires to lengthen, fluid change and fit the exhaust and I'm done! The issue I have is that I don't know which connection to use for my ISCV. I have the ISCV on the side of the inlet manifold and there is a plug in the loom in the correct location to connect to it. But, I thought that the ISCV was on the inner wing where I have another connection that will fit. My question is (without buzzing it out as I'm not near the car) are these two connections connected together so that either could be used or do I need to use the one at the inner wing? Cheers in advance! Lee
  16. I paid £600 at a local panel beaters. That was for a drivers door inside ( was gold over flint) and the complete car outside. It was quite good before hand though so that kept down on the prep work. Thanks mate, appreciate it! Just need to pull my finger out now and fit this engine. I have some MK3 XR3 rear spats I'm toying with fitting, might look good. I'm also going to fit some side mouldings when I get round to ordering them. Should be sorted for this summer with a bit of luck! Lee
  17. Thanks for the replies guys! Ye Shaun, not far from you at all. I guess you saw my bro's Orion on Welsh Ford. He swapped it with a guy in Penarth for an RS Turbo.
  18. Love the cab mate, looks very clean and much better with the black roof. As cool as this would be it's not correct. I can only assume they are talking of the SE500, of which 500 were made, they had a full RS bodykit, RS bonnet, ERST Wheels and were painted in the blue described. It is one of my bugbears that people refer to Turbo'd cabbys as RS Turbo's, I've done quite a lot of research over the years! I personally like the idea of calling them "XR3i Turbo" sounds more exotic! As I said though, love the cab mate Lee
  19. Hello everyone! My cabby story starts about 18 months ago, I had an RS Turbo I was restoring untill a chassis rail came apart in my hand and I got fed up. My brother at the time was getting rid of his 1988 mercury grey XR3i cabby he took in part exchange for cheap so I bought it and sold the RST shell. Shortly after I got it I had it resprayed and it came back absolutely stunning, so then I added the Recaro's from my RST which are in great nick and a set of mudflaps and she looked great! The plan from the start was to turbo the cab as the shell is so good. Currently everything is done except the engine. It has complete RST running gear which includes rear wishbones, rear ARB and rear hubs, front ARB and hubs, EsCos 283mm front brakes, Sapph cossy rear disk conversion, braided brake hoses, Koni adjustables, Avo -35mm springs, poly bushes all round and rolling on S2 RST alloys. Hopefully over Christmas I'll get the engine in so I can get it ready for the road next summer. Engine wise I have everything apart from time! Quick spec is 1.6 CVH, EFi, ported and polished head, standard cam, beige 701 injectors, adjustable FPR, Airtek FMIC, Airtek ally rad, Cosworth group A filter, T3 turbo with -31 actuator, Mongoose exhaust and all running on OFAC management with a Powerchips 195 chip. I can't wait to get the engine in and all running. Driving a car with a turbo'd CVH always puts a smile on my face, there's something I just cant put my finger on. Anyway heres some pics of it with my Brother's old Orion: Lee
  20. Sounds like a seized caliper. When mine seized on my RST I took the opportunity to upgrade them to cosworth 4x4 callipers and 2wd disks (283mm). I did a "how to" on passionford. Not too expensive, plus it'll all fit under 15" ford alloys. Take a look: http://passionford.com/forum/ford-escort-rs-turbo/163892-how-to-upgrade-to-cossie-brakes.html Lee
  21. That's the distributors vacuum advance mate. There should be a pipe running to it from the inlet somewhere. The suction (vacuum) created in the inlet advances the timing on cold start. This doesn't create a vacuum it receives one Lee
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