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Escort Mk6 O/e Hirschmann Electric Aerial Repair


allblue
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Ok guys & girls.

Common problem on MK6 cabs is the aerial seizing and not fully retracting, usually the bottom section. Here's how to fix this issue. This was my project for today and I can report my aerial is now working as it should. :banana_dance:

 

Moderators: you may want to include this within the tutorials section.

 

The good thing about this is it's costs £0 as long as you have the required tools.

You will need some grease, WD40, 10mm spanner, 17mm spanner & various sizes of torx sockets (from t8 upwards) & maybe degreaser.

 

1) Firstly open boot. On the left hand side, remove the two black trim securing screws with a screwdriver and pull back the boot trim.

The aerial is secured to the body by a 10mm bolt. Remove this bolt. Now from the outside of the car, undo the black retaining nut using the 17mm spanner. The aerial will now be free.

 

2) There is a small module on top of the aerial motor housing, which is clipped to the aerial mast. Remove this module by sliding it away from the mast. Undo the radaio antenna cable by unscrewing and pulling outwards. You should now be able to get the aerial out of the body via the opening in the boot inner panel.

 

3) With the aerial out of the car undo the torx screw in the centre of the black unit. The Y shaped bit where the antenna cable feeds-in will unscrew. This will detatch the mast from the main body of the motor unit.

 

4) Open up the motor casing. Undo the two torx screws securing the motor and withdraw the motor. Pull out the large white cogs (this is made up of two pieces). Undo the two small torx screws and withdraw the 1/4 curve plastic. Be careful! - underneath this is a small metal pin and wheel. Remove these and keep safe.

 

5) From the reverse of the motor assembly pull out the large black disc. The pull out the disc underneath, or pull on the aerial mast. The electric aerial toothed cable will spring out. Now pull the mast free from the main unit.

 

IMGA0626.jpg

 

6) To unseize the mast I applied plenty of WD40 and left to soak. I then opened the aerial as far as I could and with the tip of the aerial on the ground, I held down with my foot and tried to force/pull the aerial open. Gradually it opened bit by bit. This took quite a few attempts. Be careful not to damamge the plastic toothed cable otherwise its a new unit you'll be buying! Also avoid bending the aerial. Once free clean the corrosion from the mast and open & close numerous times to smooth out the aerial. Wipe down the aerial and remove as much of the WD40 as possible.

 

7) Prior to reassembly I degreased all internal parts from the unit (except for the motor of course!). Re thread the tooth cable back into the main unit and out of the back. Go as far as possible so the aerial appears in the fully closed state. Apply grease to the cable and gradually open the aerial, gradually applying grease to the cable along the way. Do this until arial is fully open. Close aerial and reopen a few times to get the grease moving through the unit.

 

IMGA0629.jpg

 

IMGA0632.jpg

 

 

 

*** Ensure the aerial mast is fully closed before proceeding!***

 

8) Reassemble the white cog. Note the metal spring which goes in between the cogs. Also not the notch on each cog which should align in the middle of the spring clip. Reseat the cog. Note the cogs only fits one way. By refitting the motor now, the teeth should align perfectly. If it does not, the white cog is the wrong way around. See pic for correct alignment. Apply grease to the white cog and white plastic screw below the motor.

 

9) Pull cable through unit so aerial is fully closed (tip touching the mast housing). Reassemble the metal pin & wheel & resecure the banana shaped plastic retainer and apply some grease here too. See pic to ensure correct fit. Do not secure this part prior to refitting cog as this will cause the toothed cable to jam within the unit (happened to me).

 

10) On the reverse of the unit, push the toothed cable into the groove at the back of the internal shaped disc and reseat into unit and slide clockwise to ensure cable seats correctly. Be careful that the cable does not pop out. It may take a few attempts to get right at first. Reattach the outer black disc noting the two grooves to aling with the hole. The disc should sit perfectly flush to the main unit housing. If it doesn't check the cable has not come free and the grooves on the outer disc are in alingment with the centre hole.

 

11) Whilst holding this outer disc secure with you hand, turn over and use the motor belt to operate the aerial. Check it opens smoothly and is not rough in operation other the motor will overheat and not work. Reattach the cover plate and secure using the torx screw.

 

12) Prior to refitting, check everything works as it shoul by reconnecting the multi-plug to the unit and operating and switching off the radio. Hopefully the aerial should now raise and retract fully! Do this a few times so the grease can work its way through the unit.

 

13) Refit is more or less reversal of fitting (thanks Hayne's!). Note if after refitting the aerial does not open, loosen the black outer retianing nut with the 17mm spanner and try again.

 

14) You should now have a fully functional aerial & you can also feel pleased that you did not need to purchase a new one :tongue:

Edited by allblue
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  • 5 years later...

Thank you for write up. I have gone through so many electric aerials, as I always drive in our out of my garages, and find the top of the aerial to catch and bend, snap the aerial. In the end one of the best aerials I have found is replacing it with a Saab, 93 which fits perfectly, however being very pleased, with my self and having it work the 93 aerials are now nearly 18 y.o and the plastic leader in the mast wore out! Doh! Many of the Maystar, Hirschman, and AUtoleads, are so noisy. The Saab aerial when it works was superb quite and smooth, But as I say they too are getting long in the tooth like myself.

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